St. Vincent [San Francisco]
- Robert Lauriston May 14, 2012 11:28 AM
I haven't been there but it is on the radar. I've been a fan of Lynch for many years now. I wish him well.
I ate there tonight. Very big thumbs up on the wine list (obviously) but also the marrow, lamb, pork trotter and urchin. Excellent service as well.
Wow. Amazing that they've been open only a week, food and service both excellent. Food reminded me a bit of AQ and Bar Tartine with, at the moment, a bit of Sean Brock southernness.
Medium-boiled egg pickled in some sort of beet liquid with fresh horseradish, butter-poached pretzel with coarse salt, rich cauliflower soup with dulse seaweed, broad beans with pork trotter and more herbs (including society garlic) than I've seen outside of a Vietnamese restaurant, baby collards in pork broth, Fiscalini cheddar, Tartine sesame bread, everything was delicious.
Fantastic wine list. Almost everything available by the 375ml carafe at half the bottle price.
Former Heart space on Valencia near 24th, much improved by the remodel. There were a few seats free at the bar all evening but I doubt that will last long.
Had another great meal with lots of great wine. The new curry pickled egg was great. Peanut boil was a huge portion for $3. "She-crab" with uni, rice, and lobster and corn chowder was lovely with a 1995 Kalin Chardonnay. Laverbread, the seaweed was a minor note in a delicious Hen-of-the-Woods bruschetta of Tartine bread. Dug leg confit with griddled apricots (with the giblets substituted for the pits) and rye berries, great.
Chilled King salmon was literally that, raw, not bad but personally I would have preferred smoked or gravlax or poached and chilled.
My report might be more detailed if the wine list was not so exceptional. The bit of being able to buy half of almost any bottle on the list is great. Good thing BART is just a block away. I think the place eventually filled up but there were walk-ins available until maybe 8 or so.
re: Robert Lauriston
I was able to walk in on during the week a couple of weeks ago and get seated promptly at the bar.
The wine list is excellent -- both the bottles and the by the glass selection. I had the rabbit sausage bourage (sp?), which I thought was excellent despite not generally being a huge fan of okra or polenta. It was rich and complex with a nice chile kick. Interestingly Michael Bauer in his two star review described the dish as bland. Maybe the chile is a new addition because there is no way you could describe the dish I had as bland.
Anyway, I would recommend ignoring MB and going there for both the food and the wine.
Yet another great meal. Tried a few new things:
Bone marrow ($15), two big perfectly cooked pieces with grilled Tartine toast. It's rare that I get it cooked just right, people tend to undercook it so it's meh or overcook it until it's all runny fat. The server said the other night a couple of women got three orders in a row.
Perfect piece of halibut ($26) with fresh peas and smoked potatoes playing the role of bacon.
Dry-aged sirloin ($58 for two) was seared, sous-vided to medium-rare, then seared again. Good treatment for a challenging cut of meat, end result is reminiscent of prime rib roast. Came with a big portion of excellent potato gratin, some al dente Chantenay carrots, and salad. Great match for the 1999 Ch. Grand-Puy-Ducasse.