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Pink Flamingo, the rock n' roll pizza

Rio Yeti May 11, 2012 03:29 AM

Burn the Margherita, Regina and all the Quattro formaggi ! Here you step on the marguerites (daisies) with your ranger boots, you chop the queen's head off and you add twice the cheese on the Cantona pizza (eight cheeses !).
At Pink Flamingo they're doing a different and creative pizza, with good ingredients and an organic dough. Meaning: it's rock n' roll, but closer to David Bowie than to the Sex Pistols...

On the rue Bichat restaurant you can take your pizza home, or get a pink balloon and look ridiculous on the border of the canal St. Martin while waiting for your food, or you can go on the "room next door", a sort of student flat with neon pink lights. My two friends and I chose this last option. So we sat comfortably in the sofa, Tom Waits' voice hailing in the speakers, a couple more interested in their respective tongue's taste than their pizza's on one side, a possy of precisely destructured hairdos lads on the other.

The Aphrodite (grilled and garlic marinated eggplants, olive oil, red pepper flakes and house-made hummus)
I told you the pizzas were original. The hummus brought me to Lebanon (although the pink lights brought me back to Paris promptly), it was as good as ones I've had in Lebanese restaurants. I'm still not quite sure it fits on a pizza, but its smooth texture and nice acidity charmed me. The eggplants were marinated just right with the garlic and red pepper adding a discreet but balanced zing to keep the taste buds awake.

I also tasted:
- The Kate (mesclun, ricotta, cherry tomatoes and pine nuts), this "pizza of the day" was fresh and reminded us that springtime was just around the corner (although today's rain is showing me otherwise...), but it's lack of acidity made it a bit bland.
- The Cantona... yes... eight cheeses ! You would think this pizza is the right amount of lactic grease a truck driver would like to shove his face in after a 15 hours drive. But it isn't quite so, this pizza was not greasy, it's taste was balanced and lighter than a bunch of four cheeses pizza I ate here and there. Under it's provocative aspect it is actually a very successful take on the multiple-cheeses pizza.

The dough
That's where you judge a pizza. Whether it is a classic Neapolitan dough with a big airy cornicione slightly charred and tasting like good bread, or a more crusty, almost puff-pastry like, Roman dough, or a thin, elastic and tender New-York style pizza...
Once again Pink Flamingo is drifting away from the norm. The dough is slightly thicker than a traditional "thin crust", very elastic, a bit beige (probably from the organic flour), and it's body is made of hundreds of tiny air bubbles, reminding me of... pancakes ! Thankfully it's great elasticity and chew save the day. This dough is not traditional, but not bad at all.
Purists will probably not like this dough, but purists will probably not go get a pizza with names like Bjork, Gandhi or Obama anyway...

Although the prices are a bit high for a pizza (around 14€), and although they're trying a bit too hard with the cool names, the decor and the attitude, Pink Flamingo still manages to bring out original and tasty pizzas. So in the plate, as David Bowie once said "I dig everything" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2u-NCzJsO4)... well almost.

For a few (bad) pictures (yes I'm buying a camera soon...), and the review in french : http://www.chezfood.com/2012/04/24/pi...

  1. Parigi May 11, 2012 03:44 AM

    The dough issue and especially the dubious taste of naming a pizza after a great man who was known for fasting do not go over with this non-purist. :-(

    1 Reply
    1. re: Parigi
      Rio Yeti May 11, 2012 01:32 PM

      I hear ya. And I have to say, although I am not a purist myself, and although I wrote a pretty positive review, I don't think I'd go back unless brought there by someone else. I much prefer the pizzas at Al Taglio, and I really want to finally get my lips on one of those at Maria Luisa.

      But I still honestly liked the pizzas at Pink Flamingo, which I didn't really expect.

    2. Parigi May 17, 2012 01:07 AM

      Indeed, nice report. In fact I enjoyed reading the reading much more than I would enjoy the place. :-)

      5 Replies
      1. re: Parigi
        Rio Yeti May 17, 2012 02:08 AM

        Thank you Parigi. Now that I finally have a (french) food blog, I will try and continue to translate my reviews for Chowhound. I will not forget where I come from ! :)

        1. re: Rio Yeti
          Parigi May 17, 2012 02:31 AM

          I've got to read your blog…
          Just clicked chezfood. Got nothing!

          1. re: Parigi
            Rio Yeti May 17, 2012 02:44 AM

            Yes it seems I didn't choose the best name to be referenced by Google (turns out a lot of sites already have the words "chez" and "food" somewhere in their pages)... try searching chezfood.com

            1. re: Rio Yeti
              Parigi May 17, 2012 03:13 AM

              Wonderful. Hey, for food cinema, "eat drink man woman" is a must. (But Tampopo is another fave.)

              1. re: Parigi
                Rio Yeti May 17, 2012 05:31 AM

                Thank you Parigi.
                Yes I love "Eat drink man woman" as well. Will have to see it again to make a review ;)

      2. Melanie Wong May 17, 2012 09:49 AM

        Thanks for a fun report!

        Didn't get a chance to eat at Pink Flamingo, but it was a couple blocks from my friend's apartment in the Marais and I walked by several times night and day. Here's a photo of the van parked in front that it uses as an extra seating area.

        1 Reply
        1. re: Melanie Wong
          Rio Yeti May 17, 2012 09:56 AM

          Glad you liked the review.

          The van is in front of their "Marais" location, the one I went to was near the Canal St. Martin. They have four different shops in Paris, one in Bordeaux and one in Valencia. (and I think I read somewhere they want to open one in Berlin).

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