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Dijon vs Beaune?

Where would you base yourself regarding best dining and patisseries? Thank you!

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  1. Dijon is a significantly larger city, but for me, Beaune is in the middle of all the best wines I want to taste. and if there's a bad restaurant in the town, I don't know of it. Dijon is at the extreme northern end of the Cote d'Or.

    1. I would choose Dijon if only to return to this most comfortable apartment, steps from the Place de Liberation with its restaurants and fountains, minutes from Les Halles. Complete kitchen, private outdoor eating/lounging area, free international phone calls and Apple computer on WiFi. One of our most favorite stays in France.

      http://www.luxuryflatindijon.fr/benig...

      1. You can't go wrong with either, but based solely on your criteria I would suggest Dijon. Beaune proper is smaller and easier to cover, other than being amidst the vineyards, I think Dijon wins because of the history, but neither point is addressed in your question. Dining and patisseries are super in both places.

        1. Do you have a car?
          If you don't, I may choose Dijon, which is larger and has more stuff.
          Iif you have a car, do consider that Beaune, althoguh smaller, is geographically surrounded by many interesting villages, vineyard areas, castles, not to mention all those legendary Côte d'Or restaurants.

          1. Assuming you have a car, l would pick Dijon. Wonderful covered market, very busy small city, l loved it. Enjoy the Hospice in Beaune as well.

            1. I prefer Beaune. Plenty of great restaurants, a couple of decent patisseries, Alain Hess cheese shop and easy access with a car to the vineyards and restaurants in the nearby villages of the Cote d'Or.

              1 Reply
              1. re: jeremyholmes

                Thanks for all replys. We're planning on doing some independent cycling. I'm feeling like we should rent a car for exploring.

                We just got back from Rome and Florence. I really liked being able to walk to dinner from the hotel. Is Dijon similar in that sense? And are the patisseries comparable in both places? (a key issue for my husband)

              2. If you have a car, would definitely pick Dijon. Distances in the Cote d'Or are quite short. And Beaune can get VERY crowded on weekends, holidays, summer months.

                1. I visited Les Halles and had lunch in Dijon in March and feel I should mention that the center of town over an area of many square blocks was all torn up with street construction. I was glad we weren't staying there as the clatter of vehicles driving over the temporary boards at all hours of the day and night, plus the machine work noises and dust would have made me nuts. Don't know what the schedule is for finishing the work.

                  In my visits to the Cote d'Or, I've stayed close to Beaune but never in Beaune proper. I prefer to stay in the smaller villages near the vineyards, and with a car, I'm driving all over anyway. I would suggest Gevrey-Chambertin, where I stayed my first time in the region, because it has a number of restaurants.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: Melanie Wong

                    It seems 50-50 from the responses. I'm leaning towards Beaune for two reasons: If the weather is good we can cycle a couple of mornings and Ma Cuisine is about 6 blocks from the hotel we'll probably stay at (Le Cep).

                    1. re: DaisyM

                      If you are staying at Le Cep, the one-starred Loiseau de Vignes downstairs is also excellent. Lunch is a great deal and the restaurant has enomatic machines dispensing almost a hundred wines by the glass and half-glass. If the weather is good, you can also take lunch in the courtyard.

                    2. re: Melanie Wong

                      Dijon was completely torn up when I was there in late September (driving from Beaune just to get my train out from Burgundy, incidentally!); we had a local driving us around and he was completely thrown out by all the barriers and we almost missed our train. Should I be surprised that the work is still carrying on six months later?

                      If you put a gun to my head, I think I would choose Beaune, even ignoring the Dijon roadworks for a minute. Dijon is obviously a bigger city but the OP is clearly focused on food and I think between the two, Beaune wins by a nose. As above, Hess is an absolute gem and the restaurants are mostly excellent. I'm not sure if the OP is focused on wine, but from Beaune, you have tremendously easy access to the great white wine villages to the south and the (I think vastly underrated) triangle of Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny immediately north.

                      1. re: Julian Teoh

                        Yes the works are for the new city tramway in Dijon. Not to be finished until 2014 I think, or maybe it is late 2013.

                        Beaune is a good home base. If you are cycling the ride from Beaune north through Aloxe, Pernand, & Savigny is a nice one.

                    3. I've been to both twice. Dijon is a difficult city to get around in by car, and with the construction going on it is a complete mess. We stayed in Beaune last October and took a day trip to Dijon. Beaune is an utter pleasure. We stayed just outside the center and drove in but if you stay in the center you can walk to restaurants. Either way it is a great base for touring and has many excellent places to eat.

                      7 Replies
                        1. re: DaisyM

                          we had a wonderful dinner one evening at a little (and very unobtrusive) wine bar in Beaune called Part des Anges. Maybe the best sweetbreads I've ever eaten, and amazing wines by the glass. We ended up drinking way more than we ate it was so much fun and so good.

                          Wanted to make sure you don't walk by it and miss it!

                          1. re: ChefJune

                            Thanks, Chef June I just added it to my Beaune list. Any patisserie's or cafes you can suggest?

                            1. re: DaisyM

                              I had very good pastries and breads from Lherbe Michael, 12 Rue Faubourg Madeleine. We always shop there for our picnics.

                              1. re: Parigi

                                That's a very good place for pastries.

                                Next door to Ma Cuisine is a place with very good pizza and insane Burgundies by the glass.

                              2. re: DaisyM

                                Hi Daisy M,
                                In Beaune there's a cake shop called Bouché, they make a chocolate gateaux named Concorde that is to die for. In Beaune itself our favourite restaurants include Ma Cuisine, Les Tontons, Caves des Arches, Bissoh, L'Ecusson, Caves Madeleine and Le Conty.
                                Best Regards
                                Jeremy

                            2. re: DaisyM

                              Here is a link to my report on Franche-Comte and Bourgogne from last fall:

                              http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/811827

                              Aside from the restaurants in Beaune, most of the others are within reasonable driving distance for day trips.