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Dijon vs Beaune?

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DaisyM May 10, 2012 05:42 AM

Where would you base yourself regarding best dining and patisseries? Thank you!

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  1. ChefJune RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 08:18 AM

    Dijon is a significantly larger city, but for me, Beaune is in the middle of all the best wines I want to taste. and if there's a bad restaurant in the town, I don't know of it. Dijon is at the extreme northern end of the Cote d'Or.

    1. mangeur RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:14 AM

      I would choose Dijon if only to return to this most comfortable apartment, steps from the Place de Liberation with its restaurants and fountains, minutes from Les Halles. Complete kitchen, private outdoor eating/lounging area, free international phone calls and Apple computer on WiFi. One of our most favorite stays in France.

      http://www.luxuryflatindijon.fr/benig...

      1. Laidback RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:23 AM

        You can't go wrong with either, but based solely on your criteria I would suggest Dijon. Beaune proper is smaller and easier to cover, other than being amidst the vineyards, I think Dijon wins because of the history, but neither point is addressed in your question. Dining and patisseries are super in both places.

        1. Parigi RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:36 AM

          Do you have a car?
          If you don't, I may choose Dijon, which is larger and has more stuff.
          Iif you have a car, do consider that Beaune, althoguh smaller, is geographically surrounded by many interesting villages, vineyard areas, castles, not to mention all those legendary Côte d'Or restaurants.

          1. Delucacheesemonger RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:50 AM

            Assuming you have a car, l would pick Dijon. Wonderful covered market, very busy small city, l loved it. Enjoy the Hospice in Beaune as well.

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              jeremyholmes RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:58 AM

              I prefer Beaune. Plenty of great restaurants, a couple of decent patisseries, Alain Hess cheese shop and easy access with a car to the vineyards and restaurants in the nearby villages of the Cote d'Or.

              1 Reply
              1. re: jeremyholmes
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                DaisyM RE: jeremyholmes May 10, 2012 10:29 AM

                Thanks for all replys. We're planning on doing some independent cycling. I'm feeling like we should rent a car for exploring.

                We just got back from Rome and Florence. I really liked being able to walk to dinner from the hotel. Is Dijon similar in that sense? And are the patisseries comparable in both places? (a key issue for my husband)

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                rswatkins RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 10:34 AM

                If you have a car, would definitely pick Dijon. Distances in the Cote d'Or are quite short. And Beaune can get VERY crowded on weekends, holidays, summer months.

                1. Melanie Wong RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 10:59 AM

                  I visited Les Halles and had lunch in Dijon in March and feel I should mention that the center of town over an area of many square blocks was all torn up with street construction. I was glad we weren't staying there as the clatter of vehicles driving over the temporary boards at all hours of the day and night, plus the machine work noises and dust would have made me nuts. Don't know what the schedule is for finishing the work.

                  In my visits to the Cote d'Or, I've stayed close to Beaune but never in Beaune proper. I prefer to stay in the smaller villages near the vineyards, and with a car, I'm driving all over anyway. I would suggest Gevrey-Chambertin, where I stayed my first time in the region, because it has a number of restaurants.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: Melanie Wong
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                    DaisyM RE: Melanie Wong May 10, 2012 05:44 PM

                    It seems 50-50 from the responses. I'm leaning towards Beaune for two reasons: If the weather is good we can cycle a couple of mornings and Ma Cuisine is about 6 blocks from the hotel we'll probably stay at (Le Cep).

                    1. re: DaisyM
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                      Julian Teoh RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:24 PM

                      If you are staying at Le Cep, the one-starred Loiseau de Vignes downstairs is also excellent. Lunch is a great deal and the restaurant has enomatic machines dispensing almost a hundred wines by the glass and half-glass. If the weather is good, you can also take lunch in the courtyard.

                      1. re: Julian Teoh
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                        DaisyM RE: Julian Teoh May 11, 2012 03:30 AM

                        We will go there!

                    2. re: Melanie Wong
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                      Julian Teoh RE: Melanie Wong May 10, 2012 05:58 PM

                      Dijon was completely torn up when I was there in late September (driving from Beaune just to get my train out from Burgundy, incidentally!); we had a local driving us around and he was completely thrown out by all the barriers and we almost missed our train. Should I be surprised that the work is still carrying on six months later?

                      If you put a gun to my head, I think I would choose Beaune, even ignoring the Dijon roadworks for a minute. Dijon is obviously a bigger city but the OP is clearly focused on food and I think between the two, Beaune wins by a nose. As above, Hess is an absolute gem and the restaurants are mostly excellent. I'm not sure if the OP is focused on wine, but from Beaune, you have tremendously easy access to the great white wine villages to the south and the (I think vastly underrated) triangle of Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny immediately north.

                      1. re: Julian Teoh
                        DaTulip RE: Julian Teoh May 11, 2012 07:17 PM

                        Yes the works are for the new city tramway in Dijon. Not to be finished until 2014 I think, or maybe it is late 2013.

                        Beaune is a good home base. If you are cycling the ride from Beaune north through Aloxe, Pernand, & Savigny is a nice one.

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                      rrems RE: DaisyM May 10, 2012 09:11 PM

                      I've been to both twice. Dijon is a difficult city to get around in by car, and with the construction going on it is a complete mess. We stayed in Beaune last October and took a day trip to Dijon. Beaune is an utter pleasure. We stayed just outside the center and drove in but if you stay in the center you can walk to restaurants. Either way it is a great base for touring and has many excellent places to eat.

                      7 Replies
                      1. re: rrems
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                        DaisyM RE: rrems May 11, 2012 03:30 AM

                        Thank you, Beaune it is!

                        1. re: DaisyM
                          ChefJune RE: DaisyM May 11, 2012 08:18 AM

                          we had a wonderful dinner one evening at a little (and very unobtrusive) wine bar in Beaune called Part des Anges. Maybe the best sweetbreads I've ever eaten, and amazing wines by the glass. We ended up drinking way more than we ate it was so much fun and so good.

                          Wanted to make sure you don't walk by it and miss it!

                          1. re: ChefJune
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                            DaisyM RE: ChefJune May 11, 2012 08:37 AM

                            Thanks, Chef June I just added it to my Beaune list. Any patisserie's or cafes you can suggest?

                            1. re: DaisyM
                              Parigi RE: DaisyM May 11, 2012 08:44 AM

                              I had very good pastries and breads from Lherbe Michael, 12 Rue Faubourg Madeleine. We always shop there for our picnics.

                              1. re: Parigi
                                ChefJune RE: Parigi May 11, 2012 09:19 AM

                                That's a very good place for pastries.

                                Next door to Ma Cuisine is a place with very good pizza and insane Burgundies by the glass.

                              2. re: DaisyM
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                                jeremyholmes RE: DaisyM May 11, 2012 09:23 AM

                                Hi Daisy M,
                                In Beaune there's a cake shop called Bouché, they make a chocolate gateaux named Concorde that is to die for. In Beaune itself our favourite restaurants include Ma Cuisine, Les Tontons, Caves des Arches, Bissoh, L'Ecusson, Caves Madeleine and Le Conty.
                                Best Regards
                                Jeremy

                            2. re: DaisyM
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                              rrems RE: DaisyM May 11, 2012 04:33 PM

                              Here is a link to my report on Franche-Comte and Bourgogne from last fall:

                              http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/811827

                              Aside from the restaurants in Beaune, most of the others are within reasonable driving distance for day trips.

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