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Apr 25, 2012 08:45 PM

Dining in Barjac (Languedoc)

We will stay a few days in a gite in Barjac at Maison Anila, The helpful proprietor (she's English; he's Dutch -- we've come across a lot of Dutch proprietors in the past three years!) has recommended two places for dinner -- "traditional style cooking; not fancy, but high quality":

La Petite Auberge,, about 8 km drive, in La Bastide de Virac.

And in Barjac, she recommends Les Délices De L'esplanade (which, which just now checking, I see is for sale).

Any comments on these or other places in or very near Barjac? To complicate matters, one of our nights will be a Tuesday, which seems to be the local version of Monday. -- Jake

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  1. We have heard about but not tried La Petite Auberge. It is fairly new and might well be your best bet for upscale dining in the area. Like many villages without a destination restaurant, Barjac's reach for fine dining often exceeds its grasp. More expensive restaurants tend toward "precious" in concept and presentation.

    Les Delices de L'Esplanade has been trying to go out of business for some time. About 5 years ago, they stopped offering sit-down meals and became a take-out for better specialty prepared foods, foie gras etc.. It didn't pay off and they became a full service restaurant once again. I would guess that they will stay at it for a foreseeable future. They were open earlier this month. The owners are well regarded and the food is "okay".

    La Renaissance is fine for pizza and pasta, or steak-frites and such. Huge servings.

    We usually use our several days in Barjac as down-time from daily dining splurges. This visit, we ate twice at BUZZ, a relatively new "burger joint" that offers many small plates: morue beignets, deep fried squid rings, the French interpretation of chicken wings, etc. Lots of salads. Open Tuesdays. Very popular with locals.

    For mid-day, a tea/natural foods shop offers a huge list of mezes or tapas, all rather good although demanding salt. Bio sodas and beers as well as teas. It is also a WiFi spot. Eat in the cave-like room in the back or out at the street seating.

    Mid afternoon calls for sitting out on the deck/terrace at the bar Centre or one of its peers on Place Charles Guynet, watching petanque across the street.

    There is a new bio ice cream shop and a new wine shop one street south from the Esplanade. For sipping in your apartment, go to the little grocer under the arch off the Esplanade and get a bottle of Ardeche cuvee blanc, a lovely and refreshing little wine that costs somewhere around 2,80 a bottle. Maybe pennies more.

    1 Reply
    1. re: mangeur

      Mangeur, I suspected that we could count on you -- thanks much for this. -- Jake