Auprés du Clocher
Does anyone have any tips on how to make a 6 foot four, 41 year old bloke with grey hair look as if he is under 12? No I don’t want to sneak into the footy for free with an accompanying adult I want to hit the children’s menu at Auprés du Clocher. For just 15 euros you get the same starter as mummy and daddy, a delightful starter of fennel veloute with cream of asparagus soup. A main course that had as much care and attention to detail as the big people’s meals. Lily’s beef was cooked to perfection and had a tasty foam and delicious white asparagus to accompany and Patrick’s Salmon was cooked perfectly and lay upon a vibrant bed of fresh spring flavours including chopped zucchini and capsicum. To follow a decadent chocolate pudding that oozed lava of rich chocolate goodness and was served with delicious vanilla ice cream. They also got to partake in the most excellent petit fours (the highlight of which was a type of salty gingerbread) with our less than excellent coffee.
The big people also get looked after here and the welcome is pleasant with service being efficient with good attention to detail. When the children’s main course was delivered they were on their way to the toilet, the waiter briskly whisked the dishes back into the kitchen to keep the food warm. The dining room is open, airy and modern with comfortable chairs. Chef Jean-Christophe Moutet has a lovely nature about him and is genuinely interested in your feedback on his clever, tasty cooking. He was equally pleasant when we dined here two years ago.
Some of the big names of the Côte de Beaune are well represented on the wine list at fair prices. Our 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault ‘Rougeots’ was as tight as the early 90’s West Coast Eagles backline. It had a discreet aroma of flint, almonds and white peach. In the mouth it was strict and linear, with great chalky intensity and super length. It breathed to show a hint of honeysuckle. The wine worked well with our soup of zucchini with snails. It was one of the rare times I have had snails where they have not been slathered in garlic and butter and their flavour was quite delicate and sweet.
The fish that came with our Menu de Saison was sweet, fleshy and lay upon a bed of lightly sautéed spring vegetables with some finely chopped black olive on top. There was a little balsamic in the reduction which added some punch and verve.
I reckon I’ve seen every crumb removing device known to man over the past 25 years. I’ve witnessed dustpan and broom type contraptions, the ‘dustbuster’ vacuum cleaner style, even an overly vigorous waiter grabbling the table cloth and giving it a good shake mid-meal, but the most efficient way is with the humble scraper and our waiters worked these with aplomb. Patrick had amassed a mountain of crumbs that I suspect may confound modern science as the volume and weight of the crumbs were larger than the starting bread roll.
Heidi opted for the epoisses to finish her meal, it was served on some toast with pretty much an epoisses cappuccino that you dipped into, absolutely delicious!…one cannot have too much epoisses can one? My dessert of cassis vacherin was beautifully balanced, lively and fresh and made me feel quite healthy and invigorated.
Auprés du Clocher is really a very good restaurant where the chef is trying to push the boundaries a little but has an ultimate respect for the produce and his clientele. I heartily recommend it.
Auprés du Clocher
1 Rue Nackenheim, Pommard
Ph: 03 80 22 21 79
This brings back recent good memories. At your (Jeremy's) recommendation we dined there (4 of us) last Sept; we sampled much of the carte, and loved it. My favorite was the escargot raviolis (pictured). We meandered home (five min walk) to our pleasant lodgings, Hotel Clos du Colombier (also pictured). -- Jake