Noriega Hotel in Bakersfield - a great experience
- gordon wing Apr 15, 2003 12:43 PM
Last week we had a great evening at the Noriega Hotel - it's located in a quiet out of the way part of Bakersfield. On Sunday night there is only one seating at 7pm - everybody gathers in the bar area and then at the appointed time folks are admitted into a large room with two very long tables and a few small ones on the side. The food comes very soon thereafter. A hearty soup, salad with a bleu cheese dressing, beans (ranch?), bread,plate of tomatoes & onions,pickled tongue, a spicy salsa, a fall off the bones oxtail stew with delicious buttery, flavorful potatoes that had soaked up much flavor from the cooking liquids, over cooked pasta with a marinara sauce, vegetable, the best french fries - fried in lard I hear, and then some very good fried chicken slathered with a sauteed garlic paste, slices of bleu cheese and some vanilla ice cream for dessert. A house wine is on the table. All for $17 (includes tax). The room is buzzing with energy and conversation. I knew there would be lots of food but I was really impressed by how good some of the items were - it's not easy to make good crispy fries for 100 folks....the oxtail stew was satisfying in a low key way, and the fried chicken was very tasty.
At night the neighborhood is very quiet - it's like everybody is coming to a secret event. This is not fine dining but nevertheless, a very satisfying evening - of a type that is not available in many places anymore. The two Basque restaurants in SF have closed.
re: gordon wing
I went to Woolgrowers in Los Banos in 2010 and found it very much up to Basque standards. I've gone to Noriega since I was a kid in the 50's. I'm so happy with them that I've never gone to the other supposedly excellent ones in Bakersfield since my folks took me to the Pyrenees way back then.
I had a recent off board request from a hound wanting to take their elderly father out for a Basque "blast from the past experience" and wondered what was available in Fresno. I had to do a little research since there's been a few recent changes and thought I'd pass it along to the board.
I suggested the old Basque Hotel (see link) since it was the only one I had been to recently and wasn't up on the changes the others had experienced, also its proximity to Hwy 99 makes it the logical choice for those traveling through. (exit Fresno St., two short blocks toward downtown, right 1 block on F St.). It's in the old part of DT but has a fenced parking area with a security guard but we park on the street and have never had a problem. This was *the* place in the old days then seemed to slip off the radar. About three years ago we heard the quality was back and began having dinner there again. The food is excellent, basically the same as described by Gordon. Not sure if others offer this but you can have your entree cooked with a chopped garlic coating, it takes the fried chicken over the top. A Google search returned some outdated and confusing information (e.g. no menu at lunch) so I stopped in to get the scoop. Lunch ($8-12) is the standard Basque offerings, fried chicken, pork chop, lamb chop or steak with all the sides. Dinners ($9-15) add the standards, choice of New York, T-bone, Beef KeBab, frog legs fried or sauted, shrimp fried or sauted, fish and Prime Rib (Fri-Sat-Sun) and children's (under 12) steak or chicken plates at $6. On our last visit I ordered the most expensive wine in the house, a $9 bottle of local dago red that was actually pretty good, served chilled in the little flat bottom glasses of course. At lunch the long (sheep herders) table is apparently reserved for the hotel residents, but there are plenty of tables and a banquet room available. No Credit Cards are accepted.
Stopped by the site of the former Santa Fe Basque (only other remaining in the downtown area, the Yturri having closed years ago) across from the Amtrak Station. the Santa Fe Hotel is still operating (another historical building) and the restaurant has been taken over by the Stone family and operating as the Shepherd's Inn, 935 Santa Fe Ave, (559) 266-2228. The long table seating here is available, the Shepherd's lunch is $5.75, the entrees run $7.75 - 8.50, with grilled or Cajun catfish added to the usual suspects. Burgers and a variety of sandwiches are available (roast pork loin w/sauteed onions, peppers & melted cheese, and pickled tongue among the more interesting). Mon. through Sat. specials: Spare Ribs, Lamb Shanks, Roast Pork, Roast Beef, Catch of Day or Steamed Clams, and Roast Leg of Lamb. Sunday special is Paella and Roasted Chicken. Other additions to the dinner menu include Calamari steak, prime rib or steamed clams (last two Fr-Sa only). Will definitely make a point of trying this place and report back.
The original Santa Fe Basque has moved into new digs in the site of a former Mexican restaurant at 3110 N. Maroa Ave, (559) 226-7499. Standard Basque lunch menu ($7.50-$9.50) top end prices for Calamari Almondine or Charbroiled Sirloin Steak. Burger or serveral sandwiches with the Lamb Dip looking the most interesting. Dinners run from $10 for fried chicken to $17 for the charbroiled lamb chops. Several steaks and orange roughy are available. Specials: Mon&Sat - Roast leg of lamb, Tu-prime rib, wed-pork spareribs, th-roast pork, fri-orange roughy, Sun- roast chicken in sauterne wine (prices $8-8.50). They offer the family style lunches and dinners, but the long sheep herder's table is missing. This was our favorite for decades when it was across from the train station so I would expect the quality is still there (they we're still packed when I popped in @ 1:30 yesterday) but the atmosphere is more plush, not really upscale but definitely not what you'd want if you're trying to relive that old ambiance. Again, will have to try and report back.
So, maybe we're not San Diego but we still have 3 Basque restaurants our of 4 from the good old days.
Dave in Fresno (actually in Fresno)
(sorry Jim Strain, just couldn't resist) ; >P
almost 7 years after Gordon Wing's post on Noriega's, we had dinner at the place last night, the experience was pretty much the same as he described, and it was a blast. for whatever reason, they served beef stew where we expected oxtails (a disappointment, but so what?) and the bill was $20 a head, a bargain, the chatter with our tablemates (only one of the six or seven within talking range was a local, fwiw) was a lot of fun...we'd come back.
this was in some ways better than our last Basque dining experience, in Reno--and made us nostalgic for the Basque places at home in San Francisco, now as Gordon said, long closed.