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Trip Report - Barcelona

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Barcelona was our last stop in Spain after being in Madrid for four days and San Sebastian for two days. We were there for four days during Holy Week. At first I was worried because a lot of the restaurants I wanted to try were closed for Semana Santa, but we were still able to eat very well. Highlights included a dinner at Hisop, eating those delicious little sandwiches everywhere and another dinner at Paco Merlago Alta Taberna. The only major disappointment was the weather, it rained every day that we were there! For those planning a trip to Barcelona, I would highly recommend Maribel's guide which can be dowloaded on the web. We used it quite a bit and all her recs were spot on.

Day 1 - We arrived in Barcelona in the afternoon and were going to the Barcelona - Milan Champions League game that night, so we went to the Boqueria and got some snacks for the game and grabbed some pregame tapas and drinks at Taller de Tapas near Las Ramblas in the Barri Gotic. Taller de Tapas is a small chain geared towards tourists, with english explanations. Standard tapas fare and cold beer. A servicable option.

Day 2 - Late lunch at a few places in the Barri Gotic and El Born areas. El Xampanyet, Irati Taberna Basca and a bakery/sandwich shop that I can't remember the name of, but was right of the Jaume metro stop. El Xampanyet was good for pan am tamaquet and some fo the canned seafood (muscles, razor clams). The bakery had great little flauta sandwiches and the Irati Taberna Basca was a good option for basque style pinxtos. We had delicious mushroom croquettes, apple and goat cheese things and other tasty treats there. Dinner was at Hisop, which was phenomenal. Because my wife is pregnant and has specific dietary restrictions, we did not do the tasting menu, but at 60 Euros it seemed like a great value. We opted instead for the a la carte. For starters we had broad beans with shrimp and bacon and something else which is currently eluding me, but it was good. For entrees we had grilled hake and I had suckling pig. Both were delicious. The only slight misses were the deserts which seemed a little forced. I had the chocolate bread and beer which consisted of chocolate cake, bread ice cream and beer foam. The only thing I really enjoyed was the cake, the rest was not memorable. Service at Hisop was also fantastic. It was one of the few places took notice of my wife's restrictions and made helpful suggestions.

Day 3 - Lunch was more sandwiches early and then Euskal Extea in the El Born which is owned by the same people that own Irati Taberna Basca. We ordered a la carte and had grilled chorizo, a chuleton (steak), potatoes and a green salad. The chorizo was spicy and plentiful and the steak was nicely prepared. Also after days of protien heavy diet meals it was nice to have a green salad! Service was also very accomodating. After a long day of sightseeing, we stopped at Tapac 24 in the l'eixample on our way back to the hotel. This is a newer tapas restuarant. When we were there it was full of tourists, and the only people speaking Spanish were the waiters. Nonetheless, we had a delicious lentils dish, lamb skewers, pa am tomaquet, and bombas (meatballs with potato).

Day 4 - This was Good Friday and a lot of restuarants were closed. We ate lunch at Restaurant Allium in the Barri Gotic. The food here was fine, but I didn't think it was anything special, in fact I can't for the life of me remember what we ate. Our final meal was quite an enjoyable tapas feast at Paco Merlago Alta Taberna in L'eixample. I would highly recommend that anyone planing a trip to Barcelona visit here. There we had delicious grilled cockles, Taloso (red bean dish), sauteed shrimp, bombas, grilled suckling goat chops, asparagus and the ubiquitous pa amb tomaquet. Dessert cosisted of Catalunyan french toast, toast with chocolate and some type of cream filled pastry. Everything was top notch and another highlight of our trip.

As I stated, the only disppointment was the fact that some of the places that we were hoping to visit were closed. Restuarants like Taktika Berri, Cal Pep and Sant Joan were high on my list and we were unable to visit them. Also, each time we went to the Boqueria, Pinxto Bar and El Quim were closed. Oh well, I guess that's just incentive to make another trip!

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  1. The weather has been brutal here...I arrived in Barcelona this past Tuesday, went up to San Sebastian Thursday until Easter Sunday, and came back to Barcelona. Still here in Barcelona but today (Easter Monday) was the first full day I had in Spain with no rain.

    Paco Merlago was outstanding as was Tapac 24. Tapac24 easily had the best pan con tomate I've eaten on this whole trip. Also had some mediocre tapas at Cerveceria Catalana too. Paella at Can Majo was probably the best I've ever had (never been down to Valencia).

    Went to El Quim shortly after I arrived in a downpour and was not disappointed. Great crispy artichokes and foie with egg and mushrooms. Going to Hisop and Tickets for my last 2 meals tomorrow before I return to the States.

    1 Reply
    1. re: erha

      In Barcelona now as well and after arriving from Amsterdam Friday night (clear and cool) weather has been great. Saturday,Sunday and today was bright sunshine mid to high 60's. Allium Easter Sunday and Paco Merlago this evening. Alkimia Tuesday lunch. Report to follow but I have to say the local hounds and contributors have provided great help.

    2. I've tried calling our hotels reservations twice and it's been closed both on Good Friday and whatever they call Easter Monday (Easter Monday perhaps?). I remember everything shut down Easter weekend years ago in Berlin of all places, these folks take Easter seriously. Glad to hear about HIsop in any case, got a res there for our fancy dinner out on May 3.

      1. Wait a minute.
        You went to to the Barça AC Milan game and saw Messi stick it up Ibra's ass. What o what gives you the right to be disappointed about anything?

        1 Reply
        1. re: Parigi

          It was a great experience. Camp Nou is a place that every soccer fan should go, and of course, Messi is unbelievable. We were seated right below the Milan fans and they were not too happy about the second penalty kick, which I must admit was a little cheap, regardless, they were not going to win that game.

        2. "[...] a bakery/sandwich shop that I can't remember the name of, but was right of the Jaume metro stop."

          I believe the place you're referring to is La Colmena. I've eaten my fair share of bocadillos from there and they are great.

          http://barcelona.salir.com/la_colmena