Two of four
I know this isn't an apples to apples comparison, but if you were from out of town and likely to make it to SF about once a decade, which two would you choose of the following:
BoDeGa Bistro
Cotonia
Ciccia
Aziza
As an added input, we already have Manresa, Saison, Adesso/Dopo, and Swan's Oyster Depot (for old times' sake) on our itinerary.
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the cooking at Dopo doesn't have nearly the finesse and subtlety of several of your other nominees in the Mediterranean/cali-italian vein. [similar menu items with Cotogna, but falls short in several respects]. Adesso is a happy hour/salumi gastro pub, as you probably know, and probably isn't worth the trip except for happy hour fanaticos.
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re: moto
The one edge Cotogna has is the wood oven, great place but I don't think the cooking's any better than Dopo's. Cotogna is a side project for Quince's chef Michael Tusk, Dopo's the flagship for its chef Jon Smulewitz.
The early happy hour at Adesso isn't what it was and it's no longer a reason to make a special trip. The late one's still fun.
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re: Robert Lauriston
have tried Dopo 3-4x and for our tastes getting one course with too much oil or salt throws the whole meal off, whoever the cook happened to be, and as much as the wine we brought ourselves helped smooth things through. we prefer SPQR to Cotogna (no pizza there of course), or Pizzaiolo.
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I agree with the La Ciccia and Aziza recommendations. However, I'd save myself a trip to Los Gatos by dumping Manresa for Commis in Oakland, The owner/chef is a Manresa alum who has created a far better restaurant (IMHO).
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Aziza stands out amongst the rest, so that's the easy pick.
I'd then go to La Ciccia after swapping Dopo for Cotogna. We're in spring now, and the online menu at Cotogna is looking a lot more interesting than the one at Dopo. It's true that you'd be hard pressed to find a place with as diverse a salumi selection at Dopo's sister place Adesso.
I nixed Bodega Bistro because, other than Banh Mi, Vietnamese doesn't excite me as much as Thai or Burmese.
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re: hyperbowler
On Adesso's current sample menu I count 38 salumi plus seven pâtés. You'd be hard pressed to find that selection at any three other places.
Dopo and Cotogna are my two favorites of that thriving local school of casual pizza- / pasta-centric Cal-italian. They're more like each other than either is like La Ciccia.
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