Venice in Four Days...
Leaving for Venice next weekend to celebrate my 60th birthday. I have vowed to spend all four days being lost in the city. I want to live like a Venetian for those four days. We are staying in the Dorsoduro and I am happiest at a market or in the local cheese or butcher shop. All suggestions and ideas welcome. Thanks in advance for the great suggestions I know you all have!
Depends on what part of Dorsoduro you are staying at, the eastern end practically has no shops related to food. Toward the western part, the area around Campo San Barnaba has a couple of 'alimentari' (small shops that sell a little bit of everything, cheeses, cured meat, dry goods, bread etc). There is a floating produce stall just off the Campo, also Colussi, a fine bakery. Most Venetians shop at the two supermarkets, Billa on the Zattere and Punto on one end of Campo Santa Margherita. Both have a good deli department, etc. Campo Santa Margherita has two seafood stalls (open mornings only, Tues-Sat) and a produce stand (open afternoons also). There is a Nave de Oro for inexpensive local wines where they fill your empty bottles for about 2.5 euro. There is a good alimentari on c/San Pantelon between the church and c/P. Crosera. Small but decent selection of cheeses, cured meat and some of the best fresh pasta. On that corner is Tonolo, one of the best and oldest bakery in Venice. Not much else in Dorsoduro. To get a flavor of Venice, stop by at the bacari, Al Bottegon/Cantina di Vini gia Schiavi, da Ginoi, ai Vini Padovani or the front bar of A 4 Feri for a glass of wine and cichetti.
As for butchers, have to head to the Rialto Market where several are on the nearby streets. Casa del Parmigiano is great for cheese and cured meat. Also an excellent cheese stall on the corner of Ruga degli Speziera and Ruga V. San Giovanni. The Rialto Market has the famous pescheria and produce stands for food shopping. It is walkable if you are staying on the western Dorsoduro but a bit far if you are on the other end. The Rialto is mornings only, all closed Sundays, Pescheria also closed Mondays with only a smattering of produce stands and shops open.
If adventurous, take the vaporetto to Via Garibaldi in Castello. The market and numerous alimentari serve the mainly locals living in part of Venice. This area is practically devoid of visitors.
All this information is assuming you are staying in an apartment and not a hotel/B&B.
Thank you so much PBSF. These are great suggestions. I plan to visit all of these plus others I have read about on the Italy board.
barberinibee I have Fred Plotkins book and have copied off the pages that pertain to Venice but appreciate the update from the NY Times.
All suggestions welcome and very much appreciated. Promise an update on our return!
Forgot to mentioned that among the butcher shops in the Rialto, between the Erberia and Campo S. Battista, is the last remaining horse butcher shop in Venice. If you are interested in food shopping, the third area is in Cannaregio, along the Strada Nuova to Rio San Leonardo. Among the knick-knacks, there are some interesting bakeries and alimentari, including one of the best coffee roaster, Caffe Costarica. No butcher shops in this area. This area also has some of the best bacari in Venice. Other than cheese and butcher, if you can be more specific as to your other food-related interests, you'll get some good suggestions.
I suspect Venetians get lost less often than the rest of us, and hope you like fishmongers more than butchers, but I get your drift.
If you scroll down this link, you will find that the 7th question asked to Fred Plotkin is about food tips in Venice, and he talks about a bakery he likes, as well as other purely Venetian treats. This Q&A was published less than 2 years ago: