Red Medicine. Wow.
- Porthos Mar 24, 2012 10:06 AM
Went back to Red Medicine last night. Indulged in brussel sprouts in fish sauce (awesome with the 2010 JJ Prum Spaetlese "Graacher Himmelreich"), foie gras in foam and chicory "soil" (btw, one of the most beautiful dishes I've ever seen. On level with Manresa's and Arpege's garden presentations), roasted maitake mushrooms with snake beans, the addictive porridge with uni...my Red Medicine standbys. This time we added the Santa Barbara spot prawns served in a large crock pot of hot stones over cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, lemon grass, and other aromatics. The body was peeled and cooked on hot stones. The head was deep fried for your pleasure. All of this was served with butter lettuce, Vietnamese mints, and pickled Vietnamese vegetables. Meant for about 4, but devoured by 2. Impressed or perhaps fearful of our gluttony, we were comped 2 desserts. These are easily the 2 best bites of 2012 for me (porridge consumed in 2011) and I'm not even a dessert fan. The first was a coconut bavarious, coffee gelato, and peanut croquant. This was a complete dessert with each component highlighting and elevating the next. The next was a game changer the way the porridge here is a game changer. A dish destined to be copied. It was listed as Green Gage plum with frozen cream, sorrel, elderflower, wild chervil. The dish was visually stunning in that it was stark white with the green of the chervil and powered sorrel contrasting. The stark white of the dessert was due to 2 types of meringue. The hard meringue was scented with kaffir lime. The soft meringue was lemon verbena. The description does not do the dish justice and I can find no words to describe how genius and delicious this dish is. It is as good as anything, any of the great chefs across the world have put out. I cannot remember a better dessert put out by Thomas Keller, Pierre Gagnaire, or Alain Passard and Chef Kahn deserves every superlative and more for this. It's what the desserts at Bazzar try to be and fail in terms of melding molecular gastronomy with dessert. And honestly, chervil with dessert? In your classic NYC vs SF vs LA pissing contest, I nominate Chef Kahn and Red Medicine as our champion.