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Which "outer" arrondisement is best for good restos?

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ScottnZelda Mar 15, 2012 01:28 PM

We've been held captive by the 6eme for some years, meaning we choose a hotel there. Since I see more and more restos recommended in the outer arrondisements, I'm thinking about breaking loose from the 6eme this May, and find a new home with great neighborhood restos.

Does anyone have a recco for where to go----for what restos------and which hotel (3 star perhaps)?

  1. sistereurope Mar 16, 2012 08:19 PM

    I go to Paris at least once a year,and have migrated from the inner to the outer arr gradually...right now my favorite areas are the 10th and 11th. For a visitor, close enough to a quick metro ride as well as great restaurants and a more "local" vibe. For a first time visitor I would probably recommend someplace closer to the center, but for anyone who has been to Paris several times. getting out from the "tourist ghetto" can be exhilarating.

    15 Replies
    1. re: sistereurope
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      ScottnZelda Apr 6, 2012 08:00 AM

      Okay! We're saying goodbye to the 6th, and have booked hotel in at Bastille. This will be an adventure for us. Thanks to you all! Now, does anyone have restaurant or shopping reccos in Marais/Bastille?

      1. re: ScottnZelda
        Delucacheesemonger Apr 6, 2012 02:13 PM

        Bastille market, Thurs and Sunday
        Marche Aligre Everyday but Monday
        Jelly lady outside supermarket at Voltaire metro Sunday AM
        Landemaine pain Voltaire, right across street from jelly lady
        for one of my fav loaves in Paris. Also closed Monday
        Rino restaurant 4 block walk away
        Crus and Descouvertes on Rue Paul Bert for my fav wine shop in Paris
        mostly organic, and always interesting stuff.

        1. re: Delucacheesemonger
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          ScottnZelda Apr 6, 2012 03:19 PM

          Thank you so much! We are looking forward to "breaking out" and trying a different section of Paris. What's the story with the "jelly lady?"

          1. re: ScottnZelda
            Parigi Apr 6, 2012 03:34 PM

            I was just wondering but didn't dare ask. Sounds dirty.

          2. re: Delucacheesemonger
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            parisjo Apr 6, 2012 04:30 PM

            We are staying in an apartment on rue Petion very close to Voltaire metro station in May with our grandson. I'd like more info on this Jelly Lady also. Sounds like we will have lots of choice for great food nearby.

            Jo

            1. re: parisjo
              Parigi Apr 6, 2012 11:28 PM

              There's a Chinese restaurant on rue Pétion with great dumpling.

              1. re: parisjo
                sistereurope Apr 7, 2012 07:01 AM

                And I'll be right around the corner on Ave Parmentier. I want to know more about Jelly Lady too...

              2. re: Delucacheesemonger
                Delucacheesemonger May 21, 2012 12:09 PM

                'Jelly Lady' is a woman in front of supermarket on Rue Ledru-Rollin and Rue Roquette who sells her homemade jams on Sunday AM. They are quite good, and some are fabulous.

              3. re: ScottnZelda
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                PattyC Apr 6, 2012 03:04 PM

                Septime is nearby.

                1. re: ScottnZelda
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                  dcbbq Apr 6, 2012 04:20 PM

                  Le Chemise is a bit north and well worth the trip. I enjoyed the dome du marais, just off the Place, a coupl eof years ago, and once had a very nice, very unhurried meal in Bofinger (in February). The Bastille market is to die for, as are the food shops along St Antoine. Next time I'm getting an apartment

                  1. re: dcbbq
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                    ScottnZelda Apr 6, 2012 05:41 PM

                    We'll be there during a big "Brocante Mache" in mid May. Any seasonal ideas?

                    1. re: ScottnZelda
                      Parigi Apr 6, 2012 11:30 PM

                      The humongous rue de Bretagne street fair in May?
                      That marché is ace. Many fashion houses in the 'hood dump their off-season stuff proverbially on the street. And brocanteurs from all over France converge there. Not to be missed. I got all my vintage herringbone weave napkins from a vendor who had driven up from Nîmes !
                      I don't see the Fitzgeralds doing the brocantes though…

                      1. re: Parigi
                        s
                        ScottnZelda Apr 7, 2012 05:23 AM

                        I'm not sure about rue de Bretagne, but it starts at Bastille, is big, and runs for about a week. It could be great.

                        We love brocantes. We rely on them to get the taxidermy we need to keep up with that darn Hemingway and his hunting trophies. :-}

                        1. re: ScottnZelda
                          Parigi Apr 7, 2012 05:33 AM

                          That's a different brocante.
                          Taxidermy. You should go to Deyroole. And Scott should get Zelda the "Plumes" scarf reissued by Hermès to benefit Deyrolle destroyed by a fire a few years ago.

                          1. re: Parigi
                            s
                            ScottnZelda Apr 7, 2012 12:33 PM

                            Please tell me about your brocante on rue de Bretagne... do you know the dates in May? We're there from the 9th- 17th.

              4. PBSF Mar 16, 2012 12:53 PM

                There maybe good restaurants in most of the outer arrondisements but as a visitor, there are many other advantages of staying near the center. Years ago, I stayed at a friend's apartment in the 20th just beyond Lachaise. The area was pleasant. But because I enjoy the pace and people watching of centro, taking the metro everyday, sometimes twice, can be wearing. When I stayed in the Marais, Latin Quarter, around l'Odeon or the 2nd, it was a pleasure just being able to walk out the door for an interesting stroll and not having to deal with the metro. Now we are at the 14e just south of Cimetiere du Montparnesse. It is a nice neighborhood with good cafes, food markets and shops (no great immediate restaurants) and close enough to walk down to St Germaine. Still, it is a very big change from when we were in the bustling 3e.

                2 Replies
                1. re: PBSF
                  Parigi Mar 16, 2012 01:02 PM

                  The 20th is truly outer.
                  I consider arrondissements 1 to 11, and pockets of the 14th (near Montparnasse, Vavin) and the 18th (Abbesses) not outer at all.

                  1. re: Parigi
                    PBSF Mar 16, 2012 08:08 PM

                    You are right that where we are in the 14th, near Denfert-Rochereau, is not outer. it is just not as 'inner' as when were in the 3rd.

                2. Delucacheesemonger Mar 16, 2012 12:26 PM

                  Agree with the above posters, my flat is in the middle of the 11th and l have restaurants galore, as well as easy transportation to anywhere else.

                  1. mangeur Mar 15, 2012 01:48 PM

                    You don't have to move if you are happy with your present hotel. We stay on the northern border of the 7th, half a block from the 6th but we dine in the 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th. Most of the good/new restaurants are very near a metro or on a bus line, locations chosen for diners' convenience and chefs' economics.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: mangeur
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                      plafield Mar 15, 2012 02:06 PM

                      Try the 14th or 15th and get an apartment. Much less expensive than a hotel and there are great restos out there (La Regalade, Le Grand Pan, Afaria, Jadis and many more) and you will have a kitchen and make use of the wonderful products from the markets.

                      The 11th also has a burgeoning restaurant scene.

                    2. Parigi Mar 15, 2012 01:35 PM

                      http://www.chow.com/search?query=saint+germain+paris&type=Topic&board_name=France&search_board_id=49&from_date=1+year+ago

                      http://www.chow.com/search?query=Pari...

                      Etc.

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