Which "outer" arrondisement is best for good restos?
We've been held captive by the 6eme for some years, meaning we choose a hotel there. Since I see more and more restos recommended in the outer arrondisements, I'm thinking about breaking loose from the 6eme this May, and find a new home with great neighborhood restos.
Does anyone have a recco for where to go----for what restos------and which hotel (3 star perhaps)?
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I go to Paris at least once a year,and have migrated from the inner to the outer arr gradually...right now my favorite areas are the 10th and 11th. For a visitor, close enough to a quick metro ride as well as great restaurants and a more "local" vibe. For a first time visitor I would probably recommend someplace closer to the center, but for anyone who has been to Paris several times. getting out from the "tourist ghetto" can be exhilarating.
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re: ScottnZelda
Bastille market, Thurs and Sunday
Marche Aligre Everyday but Monday
Jelly lady outside supermarket at Voltaire metro Sunday AM
Landemaine pain Voltaire, right across street from jelly lady
for one of my fav loaves in Paris. Also closed Monday
Rino restaurant 4 block walk away
Crus and Descouvertes on Rue Paul Bert for my fav wine shop in Paris
mostly organic, and always interesting stuff. -
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re: ScottnZelda
Le Chemise is a bit north and well worth the trip. I enjoyed the dome du marais, just off the Place, a coupl eof years ago, and once had a very nice, very unhurried meal in Bofinger (in February). The Bastille market is to die for, as are the food shops along St Antoine. Next time I'm getting an apartment
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re: ScottnZelda
The humongous rue de Bretagne street fair in May?
That marché is ace. Many fashion houses in the 'hood dump their off-season stuff proverbially on the street. And brocanteurs from all over France converge there. Not to be missed. I got all my vintage herringbone weave napkins from a vendor who had driven up from Nîmes !
I don't see the Fitzgeralds doing the brocantes though…
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There maybe good restaurants in most of the outer arrondisements but as a visitor, there are many other advantages of staying near the center. Years ago, I stayed at a friend's apartment in the 20th just beyond Lachaise. The area was pleasant. But because I enjoy the pace and people watching of centro, taking the metro everyday, sometimes twice, can be wearing. When I stayed in the Marais, Latin Quarter, around l'Odeon or the 2nd, it was a pleasure just being able to walk out the door for an interesting stroll and not having to deal with the metro. Now we are at the 14e just south of Cimetiere du Montparnesse. It is a nice neighborhood with good cafes, food markets and shops (no great immediate restaurants) and close enough to walk down to St Germaine. Still, it is a very big change from when we were in the bustling 3e.
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You don't have to move if you are happy with your present hotel. We stay on the northern border of the 7th, half a block from the 6th but we dine in the 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th. Most of the good/new restaurants are very near a metro or on a bus line, locations chosen for diners' convenience and chefs' economics.
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re: mangeur
Try the 14th or 15th and get an apartment. Much less expensive than a hotel and there are great restos out there (La Regalade, Le Grand Pan, Afaria, Jadis and many more) and you will have a kitchen and make use of the wonderful products from the markets.
The 11th also has a burgeoning restaurant scene.
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