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Mar 13, 2012 02:08 PM

Best source for fresh seafood in or around Nice

OK, we just left Paris for 5 days down in a villa near Nice. Travelling with the kids, so the three stars were price prohibitive, but had great meals at Dans Les Landes, Cafe Breizh and Au Passage. Au Passage was an aboslute stand out. Talented young chefs, who found a low rent location so they could spend money on quality ingredients and deliver great value. Outstanding food, even if the price point, decor and location suggest something a bit less. ....but I digress. I will do a more complete report later.

Right now, our need is this. The villa has a wood oven, a charcoal grill (2 actually to allow different temperatures) and is overlooking Nice from up in the hills. If I could buy from the fishermen as the boats came in, it would be ideal. If not, what is the next best option? Locations for cheese and charcuterie would also be welcomed. Local produce is not an issue - the farm below us has a bunch! Jeez, I love this country!

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  1. Fish Market in Vieux Nice, on Place Saint-Francois.

    M fave food shops in Nice:

    In the old port area:
    - Wine cellars: La Belle Cave on rue Bavastro,
    - Quirino on rue Bavastro for prepared traiteur dishes, charcuteries, cheeses. Everything is good there but its ravioli farcis are not as good as those at Barale in the old town. Barale is just in a class by itself.

    Vieux Nice:
    - Le Barale for stuffed ravioli. Everybody makes it, but after tasting Barale, you won't like the rest.
    - Cave Caprioglio on rue de la Préfecture. Wine Ali Baba kind of place.
    - La Poulette (12 rue de la Préfecture). Great meats cooked or raw. fattest, tastiest quail, plus excellent pâtés and other charcuteries and cheeses.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Parigi

      thanks so much for the recos. We picked up some wonderful wine at Cave Caprioglio, and served up some fabulous raviolis from Le Barale tonight. Uber Yum! Also found your comments elsewhere about pastisse, so picked some of that up too, and served it as an app after sauteing in a local olive oil, a bit of garlic, served with a bit of chopped rosemary from the garden outside, salt, and some local olive tapinade on the side. Fantastic. Thanks for the ideas.

      And the chef at Flaveur gave me the name of the lady he sources fish from, so that is the plan for tomorrow night now, after lunch at Mirazur. Incredible foie dish and magnificent beef tartar at Flaveur today. Jeez, I wish I could to this full time!

    2. Your villa sounds ideal.
      The fish market in the Place St-Francois is picturesque and good. Chez Tony on the Rue Stalingrad is excellent. Fish at the Carrefour is usually very good with a wide variety.
      La Poulette, unfortunately, has closed.

      5 Replies
      1. re: beaulieu

        "La Poulette, unfortunately, has closed"

        First, the Ferme-auberge Le Castelas in Sivergues, now this.

        1. re: beaulieu

          Thanks for the refence to Place St.-Francois. The kids and significant other were dragging their feet today, and we missed out getting down into Nice on time - or rather, we had to choose between our lunch reservation at Flaveur or the market - not a hard choice. The chef at Flaveur gave me his fish monger's number, so I may not make it to St. Francois after all - but if I can;t get by with his fish monger in my terrible french, I may well yet get to the market.


          1. re: WillinTO

            I love Flaveur. It just gets better. Does its fishmonger have a poissonnerie in town? Please let us know.

            1. re: Parigi

              Just reviving this question. We're spending a week in Nice in August and would love to know about the fishmonger recommendation from Flaveur.

              1. re: Nancy S.

                Willin never wrote back.
                I so wish that posters write back and share with us their finds, just we do with them.

        2. Poissonnerie Rizzetto on rue Raiberti, a few blocks behind the Gare has super-fresh seafood in Nice.

          Yes, Parigi, it seems that on the France forum we hear a lot more about the "before" rather than the "after". Too bad.

          3 Replies
          1. re: lemarais

            Would you purchase fish from this poissonerie rather than the daily market?

              1. re: Nancy S.

                I haven't been to Nice in a few years, but my favorite place to shop for fish and everything else used to be the old covered market on Rue Buffa, corner of Gambetta, next to the Casino supermarket. I found it to be a more pleasant shopping experience than the open air market in Vieux Nice. Also, this may sound completely heretical, but if you have a car, the gigantic Galleries Lafayette supermarket at Cap 3000 in St. Laurent de Var is worth a visit. Huge (expensive) fish selection.