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Off the Beaten Track Restaurant Finds for Our (Slightly) Off the Beaten Track Sicily Itinerary?

nezzie Mar 10, 2012 05:20 AM

Looking for restaurant suggestions for our Sicily itinerary in early May. We'll be in ERICE, MENFI, ARAGONA (20 min. north of Agrigento) MODICA, PIAZZA ARMERINA , GANGI (Madonie Mt. area) and ONE day in PALERMO.(As Palermo is the last day, wouldn't mind having the world's best pizza!
(Many threads that I've read are 4-6 years old - hence my desire for current information) THANKS!

  1. n
    nezzie Mar 14, 2012 05:24 AM

    Again, hluge thank you's for all suggestions! I now need more time (& money!) to try them all!
    I'll be sure to report back!

    8 Replies
    1. re: nezzie
      webbo May 3, 2012 03:05 AM

      Off to Sicily next week but cant get any reply to Gangivecchio. Phones seem to be dead and e-mails bounce back. Anyone any ideas?

      1. re: webbo
        jen kalb May 3, 2012 07:39 AM

        Are you using the contact info on this page?
        there is not a lot of recent info on individual visits on the web, tho I am seeing at least one tour operator which has a cooking class/meal visit /stay scheduled there http://www.sicily-tour.com/1769/1872.... which indicates they are still in operation.

        If you go, hope you report back!

        1. re: jen kalb
          webbo May 3, 2012 07:48 AM

          Just tried again with the link that you have and it again bounced back:

          Hi. This is the qmail-send program at yellocello.com.
          I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses.
          This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.

 does not like recipient.
          Remote host said: 553 sorry, no mailbox here by that name. (#5.1.1) Giving up on
          will try the tour operator

          1. re: webbo
            jen kalb May 3, 2012 08:01 AM

            you might try the charitable foundation contact (different email) and see if they can direct you to the right place? the most recent tripadvisor reports were a bit discouraging sounding.

            1. re: webbo
              MarkC May 3, 2012 08:06 AM

              Sounds like that place is down the tubes, so maybe try Castelbuono, also in the Madonie area. Two places that receive special notice are Nangalaruni and Palazzaccio. We're going in mid-May, so you'll beat us there.

              1. re: MarkC
                webbo May 3, 2012 08:18 AM

                thanks to both of you. will report back if any joy

            2. re: jen kalb
              webbo May 3, 2012 09:28 AM

              I heard from Sicily tours and they have changed their itinerary because they could not get into contact with Gangivecchio through any electronic means and havent been there for 5 years, I guess MarkC is correct but other sites do have visitor comments from the last year. I am giving up! but thanks for your help. webbo

              1. re: webbo
                jen kalb May 3, 2012 11:22 AM

                it must have been a big effort to keep that effort going, and people do get older.
                Still, the books carry such a feeling of energy. its good that they wrote them to portray that type of life.

        2. b
          barberinibee Mar 13, 2012 08:09 PM

          If you'd like a somewhat fancy meal in Modica, I really enjoyed my meals at Fattoria delle Torri, but that was at least 6 years ago. If you can read Italian, this is a recent review:


          This one appears to be from 2008


          I don't know when this was written


          You might be able to dig up other reviews on the web

          2 Replies
          1. re: barberinibee
            jen kalb Mar 13, 2012 09:07 PM

            Golly, Sorry, forgot to put up the list for Modica from the DB that is disappearing in two days which inclused BB's recc - its close to Ragusa which has other restaurants you might want to consider:

            La Rusticana
            trattoria, a slowfood pick,Closed Sun eve, in summer also Sun lunch
            0932 942950 - viale Medaglie d'Oro 34, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            La Locanda del Colonnello
            Restaurant with both local land based and fish dishes, Slowfood 2010, closed Wed
            0932 752423 - Vicolo Biscari,6, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            La Magnolie
            Terroir cuisine with some creative touches, meat and some fish, Slowfood, closed Mon lunch and tues
            0932908136 - Frigintini,Via Gianforma n.179, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Maria Fidone
            trattoria with good quality home cooking, Slowfood 2010, eves only except holiday lunches
            0932 901 135, 335 8207153 - Frigintini ,via Gianforma 6, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Taverna Nicastro
            Trattoria open evenings only, Slowfood 2010 (closed Sun and Mon
            )0932 945884 - Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Fattoria delle Torri
            Closed Mon, one week in Sept
            0932 751286 ‎ - Vico Napolitano 14, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Osteria dei Sapori Perduti,
            trattoria, hard to find local dishes, recc by GR Lowcost guide
            0932 944247 - Corso Umberto I,228, Modica, Sicily , IT

            Ristorante La Gazza Ladra
            restaurant, Michelin*
            Via Blandini, Modica, Sicily 97015, IT

            La Rusticana
            viale Medaglie d'Oro 34, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            La Locanda del Colonnello
            Vicolo Biscari,6, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            La Magnolie
            Frigintini,Via Gianforma n.179, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Maria Fidone
            Frigintini ,via Gianforma 6, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Taverna Nicastro
            Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Fattoria delle Torri
            Vico Napolitano 14, Modica, Sicilia , IT

            Osteria dei Sapori Perduti
            Corso Umberto I,228, Modica, Sicily , IT

            Ristorante La Gazza Ladra
            Via Blandini, Modica, Sicily 97015, IT

            1. re: jen kalb
              Leely2 Mar 14, 2012 06:48 PM

              I can personally recommend La Gazza Ladra based on a visit last March.

              I wouldn't return to Osteria dei Sapori Perduti, which had good firsts but carelessly served (lukewarm) main plates.

              Fellow travelers at our hotel enjoyed La Rusticana and La Magnolie.

          2. f
            foodeye Mar 13, 2012 02:32 PM

            Haven't been yet myself, but I have these ideas saved:

            1. n
              nezzie Mar 10, 2012 07:44 AM

              Thanks for all the posting links/suggestions Jen! We are staying at Villa Raino (Gangi) for two nights. Didn't realize they served meals. What is Gangivecchio? I think we looked at it for lodging but perhaps we can eat one night there. Have you been?

              2 Replies
              1. re: nezzie
                jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 09:31 AM

                The Tornabenes at Gangiavecchio have written several well regarded sicilian cookbooks and have a cooking school and offer meals, in addition to lodging at their property. Unfortunately, I havent made it to this area yet but ive cooked with pleasure from their book that I have

                It looks like Villa Raino will be a great place to eat too.

                Hope we will hear back from you about this great trip!

                1. re: jen kalb
                  nezzie Mar 10, 2012 09:45 AM

                  I checked out Gangiavecchio and I may see if, just for fun, we can take a cooking class/lunch there. I have to see what time we will arrive in that area from the previous night's location and how far it is from Villa Raino. I'm planning this trip by myself so I get a little intimidated by details at times...but I'll keep going! In any event, I will certainly report back and thanks again.
                  Any hints on great "little finds" (needn't/shouldn't be fancy) for our last night in Palermo - as I said, even great pizza will be marvelous! I'm already salivating on reports of cannolis in Erice!

              2. jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 06:19 AM

                GANGI - MADONIE

                are you visiting Gangiavecchio?

                Casale Villa Raino
                0921.644680 - Contrada Raino, Gangi Palemo, Sicilia 90024, IT
                Slowfood, http://www.villaraino.it/vecchio_sito...

                Da Salvatore
                0921 680169 - Piazza San Michele,3, Petralia Soprana, Sicilia 90026, IT
                Slowfood snail (highest recc


                Petrae Lejum
                0921 641947 - Corso Paolo Agliata,113, Petralia Sottana Palermo, Sicily 90027, IT

                1. jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 06:13 AM

                  Piazza Armerina

                  Trattoria La Ruota
                  0935680542 - contrada Casale I, Piazza Armerina, Sicilia 94015, IT
                  Michelin 1-fork

                  Al Fogher
                  0935 684123 3391579005 - Contrada Bellia - S.S. 117 Bis, Piazza Armerina, Sicilia 94015, IT
                  Michelin and Gambero Rosso recc

                  1. jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 05:52 AM

                    AGRIGENTO and ARAGONA area

                    0922 20712 - Via Panoramica Valle dei Templi, 23, Agrigento, Sicilia 92100, IT
                    winebar, good cooking GR Lowcost guide, closed Sun lunch

                    0922 412788 - San Leone,Via Nettuno,35, Agrigento, Sicilia 92100, IT

                    Da Carmelo
                    0922 631376 - Via Roma,16, Joppolo Giancaxio Agrigento, Sicilia 92010, IT
                    (meat a veg, slowfood, GR lowcost guide)

                    Ruga Reali
                    0922 20 370 - Cortile Scribani,8, Agrigento, Sicily 92100, IT

                    Trattoria del Templi
                    0922 403 110 - Via Panoromica dei Templi,15, Agrigento, Sicily 92100, IT

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: jen kalb
                      Leely2 Mar 13, 2012 08:12 PM

                      Oh, I'd forgotten--I went to Spizzulio in Agrigento last spring. Nice little wine bar, very relaxed ambiance and a friendly owner who loves to talk about wine. Don't come if you're in a hurry. Or anyway, when we went we didn't realize that the owner was also the cook, the host, and the server all rolled up into one. We would not have ordered so many different cooked-to-order items had we known. Though he might have said that he was short staffed because someone had called in sick (?). A bit of a language barrier.

                      Anyway, if not in a hurry, I would definitely return. Very pleasant with some excellent dishes and wines.

                      Sicily is a joy.

                    2. jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 05:49 AM

                      ERICE - TRAPANI AREA (many more recommended options in TRAPANI)

                      RISTORANTE LA PENTOLACCIA
                      0923.869099 - Via Gian Filippo Guarnotta,17, Erice,Trapani, Sicily , IT

                      Pasticceria Maria Grammatico
                      0923/869390 - Via Vittorio Emanuele,14, Erice, Sicily 91016, IT

                      Monte San Giuliano
                      0923 869595 - Via San Rocco,7, Erice, Sicily 91016, IT

                      Saverino (daily catch seafood, Michelin 2forks
                      )Via Lungomare,3, Bonagia, Sicily 91016, IT

                      Ignazio Benivegna
                      0923555554 - Via Alessandro Manzoni,99, Trapani, Sicily , IT
                      pasticceria, gelateria, Slowfood

                      Da Gelatissimo
                      Via Pepoli,172, Trapani, Sicily , IT

                      Duca di Castelmonte (agroturismo,Slowfood, meals for guests and others
                      )0923 526139 - Xitta,Via Motisi 3, Trapani, Sicily 91100, IT

                      Trattoria del Sale
                      0923 867142 - Via Chiusa, Paceco, Sicilia 91027, IT
                      Slowfood, mostly fish cuisine, daily menu

                      Al Solito Posto
                      0923 24545 - Via Orlandini,30 A, Trapani, Sicily , IT

                      Cantina Siciliana
                      0923 28673 - Via Giudecca,32, Trapani, Sicily , IT
                      Slowfood, GR Lowcost recommendation

                      La Rinascente
                      Via Gatti,3, Trapani, Sicily , IT
                      0923 21464

                      La Bettolaccia (trattoria, Slowfood,sea cuisine, cuscus
                      )0923 21695 - Via Generale Enrico Fardella,23, Trapani, Sicily , IT

                      Calvino (pizza - square sicilian style, slowfood GR recc
                      )0923 21464 - Via Nunzio Nasi,71, Trapani, Sicily 91016

                      1. jen kalb Mar 10, 2012 05:43 AM

                        Mere are some names at any rate from our soon to disappear database - maybe some other can post some comment. Id recommend you ordera copy of the Gambero Rosso Mangiar Bene (Lowcost ) guide, which is inexpensive and has many recommendations (many listed below) in your destination area, big overlap with Slowfood guide.) Available through Amazon.it or other online (Italian sources)


                        Da Vittorio
                        Il Vigneto

                        De Vittorio
                        092 578381/ 092 574270 - Via Friuli Venezia Giulia,9, Menfi, Sicily 92013, IT

                        Il Vigneto
                        Contrada Gurra di Mare, Menfi Agrigento, Sicily 92013, IT

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