Restaurants for near Perpignan and in Northern Rhone
We are doing a weeklong roadtrip through southern France. Have some good dining things set for the middle (Pezenas and Uzes areas), but not sure where to eat at the beginning and end.
First, we are staying two nights outside of Perpignan (either in Prades or Ortaffa) - so looking for some good places to eat near there. Also for lunch when we drive around Collieure/Banyuls. Lunch suggestions near Peyrepteuse and on the drive up the coast towards the Haut Languedoc also welcome.
Our last night we are staying in Ampuis before flying out of Lyon. In theory I guess we could drive into Lyon for dinner, but the whole point of staying in Ampuis was to avoid dealing with city traffic and parking! There seems to be one small restaurant in Ampuis, and the expensive restaurant at the Beau Rivage in Condrieu, but haven't found much else reasonable. Has anyone been to the cheaper restaurant at La Pyramide in Vienne?
"Lunch suggestions near Peyrepteuse and on the drive up the coast towards the Haut Languedoc also welcome".
I'm not sure how far towards/into the mountains you are thinking of going, but most of my suggestions for the area from the coast to the Haut Languedoc are in this thread:
In collioure I would definitely recommend Le 5ème péché, a small restaurant run by a Japanese chef who worked with the best chefs in Japan and in France (including Michel Bras). Fresh local food, lot of fish, and not expensive at all (especially at lunch 20 or 30€ for a meal you won't forget). It's located in the heights of the village, be sure to book in advance. As for the Corbieres area, you have La Maison du terroir at Maury or Chateau de Jau near Estagel. The Agly valley has lots of great wines to offer, I would advise to look for opportunities to taste directly at the winery (can be dangerous if you have to drive to the Rhone afterwards)
In January of this year I went with some friends to the Marche aux Vins de Cote Rotie. We were planning to eat at both of these restaruants, but since someone was ill, we had to skip the first, but not because we thought it would be less good.
Bistro de Serine
16 BLvd Allees, Ampuis
+33 4 74 48 65 10
Wine bar, restaurant and wine shop, focusing on the wines of the Northern Rhone. Seems that Pierre Gaillard, Yves Cuilleron, Jean-Michel Gerin and François Villard own the bistrot. Supposed to be excellent food; can't wait to go back up to the northern Rhone.
Auberge de la Source
+33 4 74 59 54 03
Went there for lunch during the wine show. It was packed with people from the show, so I am not sure that was representative of the cusine. It is good, but not memorable. However the setting truly is memorable, as is the drive to get to the restaurant. You climb steep roads through the vineyards, usually with no guardrails. Best to try the drive first during the day!
I know some excellent places in Tain l'Hermitage if that is of interest.
For future reference, in the South we stayed in Tautavel and ate at Le Pichenouille in Maury.
In Ampuis we ate at Bistro de Serine.
Both were wine bar/shops/restaurants with very affordable fixed menus (about 20e) and both were excellent. I believe Le Pichenouille changed owners relatively recently and the website doesn't work anymore.
We ended up leaving the Perpignan area early and skipped Collioure as the weather was bad. Will post a more thorough writeup of the whole trip soon.