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1-Week Stay in Paris in 18th Arr. Apartment with Baby -- Seeking Food Shopping & Restaurant Tips

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My husband and I will be spending a week in Paris with our 3 1/2 month-old daughter in a few weeks, staying in an apartment in the 18th, close to Metro La Fourche. We plan to shop for and prepare our own food a good amount, but would also like to have a few good restaurant meals. I have some familiarity with the city, but not much with the 18th. We'd love suggestions for local markets and food vendors (and places farther afield that are worth the trek), as well as recommendations for good restaurants that won't break the bank and are likely to be doable with a pretty mellow infant. We especially love shopping for fresh ingredients and prepared foods in open-air markets, so would love to hear of good markets in and around the 18th.

Another wrinkle is that I need to avoid all dairy and soy as my daughter has an allergy. I don't plan to impose that restriction on my husband and his friend who'll be there with us, so welcome restaurant recommendations even if they're likely to be dairy-centric (there's always nicoise salad!), but would also appreciate any tips for finding tasty dairy (and soy)-free things to eat. I'm thinking asian food could be a good way to go (although soy makes that somewhat difficult), and I know there's amazing middle eastern food available in Paris. I know about the falafel in the Rue des Rosiers, but would love to hear of other spots.

After our week in Paris, we're heading to the Dordogne, where we'll be staying in a cottage in Couze-et-Saint-Front, not far from Bergerac, so restaurant suggestions in that neck of the woods would also be welcome.

Many thanks!

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  1. Your part of the 18th is on the northeastern tip of the 18th. I am afraid I don't know the neighborhood or any neighborhood shops there.
    Meanwhile, you can use Google map and this website to find the markets nearest you:
    http://paris.angloinfo.com/informatio...
    The site is very good except for one major problem: The morning markets start closing at 12:30. By 13h, most, if not all, of the shops are closed. By 13h30, all you see is the street-cleaning crew.
    In the afternoon (on the days when the market is operating), shops open at 15h30 or 16h. They start closing around 19h30 and are mostly closed by 20h.

    I go to Dordogne often but have not stopped at Couze-et-Saint-Front. Lalinde across the river is a lovely village.
    In order to find more answers from people who are knowledgeable about Couze-et-Saint-Front, you may want to start a new thread specific to the location, instead of lumping it with Paris. :-)
    From where you are, PĂ©rigueux is closer than Bergerac and has a great market and eats. You can use the search function to find many recommendations (may need to eliminate the accent mark I used). There was also a good thread on Bergerac which you can also find with the search function. Excuse me if you have already done so.

    2 Replies
    1. re: Parigi

      Dear Nancy, your expertise in the area around metro La Fourche is pretty good as it is right by Cimetiere de Montmartre. I think it is your direction which is suspect as it is actually in the S.W. corner of the 18th unless it is I who is confused. I would recommend the gem of a park, Square Batignolles, with an infant and certainly the marché biologique near by on Blvd. Batignolles.

      1. re: Laidback

        "it is actually in the S.W. corner of the 18th "

        Of course it is, duh. :-)
        Mais non, I have no expertise anywhere, and especially not around La Fourche.
        Indeed Square Batignolles is one of my fave spots of Paris.

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