SD Reader "How to Dine" revisited
- Angie V.
A few weeks ago there was an article in the San Diego Reader about "How to Dine." Many Chowhounds here found the article insufferable, because it focused more on dining as a power trip than on the enjoyment of good food.
For a more thoughtful, insightful look at eating out, check out the New York Times article dated January 13, written by Amanda Hesser (see link below). Hesser, a former chef, describes the evolution of her friend into a food lover She is a professional food writer who loves to dine out; he is an average person who loves to eat, but feels uncomfortable in fancy French restaurants, preferring simpler, homier fare and less pretentious service. Hesser discusses service, food presentation, dining as theatre and social occasion, and whether a dining experience requires flawless food in order to be enjoyable.
I'm posting this before surfing over to the New York board to read the trashing of Amanda Hesser, but still have a vivid (negative) impression of her from her near-sycophantic write-up in the New York Times Magazine last year about eating out with Jeffrey Steingarten. She apparently found his rudeness cute in a curmudgeonly way, but I for one was appalled at how rude he was -- so much so that one sushi chef literally turned his back on him and stopped serving him. And you may recall Steingarten's article in Vogue about San Diego restaurants, apparently none of which can serve a meal worthy of his refined palate.