Oaxaca meals, and......Marco Polo downhill?
- Geoff Feb 29, 2012 06:25 PM
Greetings all. Upcoming, too-short visit to Oaxaca. Was last there a couple of years ago and, among other meals, had a really great comida at Marco Polo. Have been doing some research and what mentions I see (most recent are late 2011) make me wonder if they've gone downhill. Your take?
I'm reading through my old notes and what I see here on chowhound. If you're so inclined to think about it for a minute........I'll have opportunities for two breakfasts, two comidas, three dinners. Not nearly enough meals! If this were your itinerary, where might you go? My focus is on Mexican/regional style food. Mix of "nice" and "casual." "Food with big flavor" is what I care about most.
I think this falls into the regional category quite nicely.
The mission of the owner is to champion the use of non-GMO corn grown in Oaxaca and preserve traditional methods of nixtamalzing corn, making masa and corn based dishes. The food focuses on the corn kitchen and antojitos. It is extremely well done, very good and very reasonable. I think they are basically a breakfast/lunch type of place (or at least they were in 2009 when I was there last).
Please report back on what you find and where you eat. I'll be back in Oaxaca City the first week in April. Always interested in finding new places to try.
P.S. It's been several years since I've last eaten at Marco Polo. Love their pescado a la Taller and the plantain dessert that come out of their horno. I've always heard the branch at Llano Park was better than the one closer to the centro. I will be within walking distrance of Llano Park this trip and was thinking of checking it out again to see how it's holding up.
As a foodie who lives here in Oaxaca I try to pay attention to the current food scene. I think Marco Polo is still very good. Itanoni's is a great recommendation. It is in col. Reforma. A little out of town - near the Tule tree is a great comida place - Palapa de Raul. A little expensive but terrific food - everything is good but their sopa de guias and black beans are wonderful. Always a good place to try everything is the super buffet La Escondida - moles, whole pigs, grilled meat - especially fun for Sunday comida when it is full of locals celebrating many things.
I've heard that Casa Vertiz on Reforma has a wonderful breakfast. It is near La Olla which is a good choice for dinner. For wonderful pozole and tacos my favorite place is an evening stand across the street from the first class bus station. Looking north from the bus station my favorite is on the far left (west) nearest to the Pitico. Great pozole and tacos de pastour.
I often eat at Terra Nova in the zocolo - they have a daily meal - actually 2 - one with 2 choices outside and another with 2 choices upstairs. Very reasonable and always very good - seems to be a time for the chef to shine with current ingredients. I also like Casa del tio Guero on Garcia vigil 715 - good moles, great pepper stuffed with banana. For something less traditional but excellent try Origin on the south side of Hidalgo about 2 block east of the zocolo. Wonderful young Oaxacan cook. Buen Provecho!
Thanks all, will report back. I'm wondering what my best dinner option might be on a Thursday night. Staying in Centro. Scheduled to land in Oaxaca at approximately 8:00 p.m. Maybe Casa Oaxaca, or La Biznaga, or similar. I like the idea of the Friday set Comida at Los Danzantes. Based on past experience will definitely have comida at Marco Polo and will see for myself how they're doing.
Definitely not enough meal opportunities! Three dinners, two comidas, two breakfasts. And snacks. And of course nieves!