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Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, L'Abeille, Kei, Sola, La Truffiere, Le Diane, Le39V, Le Lumiere, Cobea, Le Quinzieme-Cyril Lignac, Arkrame, Shang Palace, Les Tablettes de JL Nomicos - any reports

These are the newly starred restaurants in this years Michelin guide and apart from Arkrame and Shang Palace I don't recall seeing any mention of them on the board. Has anyone tried them?

In the list is also quite interesting to see who hasn't achieved a Michelin recognition: Spring, Saturne, Agape Substance, CLJ, still no third for Le Cinq (although based on my last meal not a surprise), and not even a bib for Au Passage despite its menu being firmly in the €29 to €35 qualification. Although Chez Casimar does get a bib.

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  1. Also La Table d'Eugène and Le Baratin lost their bibs... :(

    4 Replies
    1. re: Rio Yeti

      Rio - do remember a Bib can only be rewarded if they are in the price band of €29 to €35 so if they raise their prices they disqualify themselves. Often the loss of the bib is not a reflection of a drop in quality but simply rising prices - they may be just as good, simply more expensive.

      1. re: PhilD

        So I would assume that Michelin re-calibrates it price range with requisite frequency? Frankly, I'd just as soon that Table d'Eugene not be under the Bib umbrella. It will free Maillard to do what he does best: invent and cook without worrying about a nickel here or there.

        1. re: mangeur

          In 2005 it was 25 in the provinces and 33 in Paris so it does change, I expect the minimal changes between then and now are firstly a result of the VAT change, and secondly the price sensitivity at this level. Here is the actual wording:

          "Les critères de prix du Bib Gourmand sont très précis : l’établissement doit proposer a minima un menu complet (entrée + plat + dessert) pour un prix maximum de 29 € en province (33 € le week-end) et 35 € à Paris."

          I wonder if Le Baratin's low priced set menu is for two or three courses? My guess is an aspiring chef is less concerned about a bib than a star. The bib is a combination of price and quality and thus limited, a star is simply about the quality of food on the plate (not the service, ambiance etc).

        2. re: PhilD

          It's true that last time I went to Le Baratin, it was more expensive than that. However La Table d'Eugène still has the 35€ menu if I'm not mistaken.

          Anyway I agree with Mangeur, I'd rather Chef Maillard not be preoccupied about this and do his own thing, it just felt sad to me that this place that I love lost something, but it may be for the greater good !

      2. Cyril got a star? Cool. Nice guy...

        1. Oh, and Fogon lost it's star also...

          1. I'm also interested in Shang Palace... has anyone dined there for dinner?

            1. Phil - I have a post that I am updating on the 1* restaurants and others. Unfortunately, I did not label it well. You can find some reviews on the 1* under the post - Business Travel - Paris.

              Would you know how I can rename the post so that other Chow Hounders could easily reference it? Thank you

              1. Based on my recent visits, I would say Spring and certainly Agape Substance would be pushing for a 1*. I disagree that Saturne that is off that standard.

                7 Replies
                1. re: blownd

                  "Based on my recent visits, I would say Spring and certainly Agape Substance would be pushing for a 1*."
                  Well you may soon be awarded the prescient prize of the year - because last Thursday, this went up on the Michelin site about Spring - http://restaurant.michelin.fr/magazin...

                  1. re: John Talbott

                    One has to wonder when this article was planned. ( Photos include Audrey presenting cheeses.) And what precipitated its (delay and) posting.

                    1. re: mangeur

                      Margaret; your guess is as good as mine. Who knows the inner life of the Big Red M?

                      1. re: John Talbott

                        Well, congrats to the M for noticing him at last. Better late than never.

                    2. re: John Talbott

                      And John, great call on L'Hedoniste - my wife and I had a great dinner there.

                      Would you know how I can change the tile of a post - I would like to give back to the CH community in the same way that so many have helped with the great suggestions.?

                      1. re: blownd

                        You're welcome, or as the under 75 year old French or Americans say - no problem.

                        As for changing the title, try writing the mods; when we were at another breakaway website we had the power to merge, split, change, etc., but life has become more complicated since then.

                      2. re: John Talbott

                        Agape Substance without Toutain, but Yoshi... star material?

                    3. Well I've reported on Kei, Sola, Le39V, Cobea and Akrame, and Pti has as well on Les Tablettes de JL Nomicos but maybe not here. I thought Kei and Sola were among my best experiences in 2011, along with LAntre amis, L'Agape Substance, Qui plume La Lune, Tintalou and Sot l'y laisse; but then, there's so much the big " Red M" misses, Spring, as mentioned above, being an prime example.
                      Quite frankly, with the blogs and websites like this, who cares?

                      7 Replies
                      1. re: John Talbott

                        John - I did post this back in Feb this year, which (I think) was prior to your return. At the time it was notable that so few of these had been mentioned on the board. The range of restaurants has changed a bit now with you and Parnassien going are off piste and broadening the base (very welcome).

                        Obviously Michelin misses some, but at the time I thought it odd the board had missed nearly all of the newly minted stars mentioned above - you expect some cross over not necessarily consensus. And I think you would agree a single source for research is always dangerous and each source has its place - cross referencing is essential with each weighted to counter its bias.

                        1. re: PhilD

                          Quite right Phil, I stand corrected and my experiences were posted elsewhere not here.
                          I just hope my going off piste does not brook encounters with avalanches or ravines.

                          1. re: PhilD

                            I'll help, concisely:
                            I would recommend:
                            Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos, Cobea, Akrame. Talent inside. Akrame still a little on the fussy side but he's young and has potential.

                            Not been:
                            L'Abeille (heard reports of extreme boredom), Sola, le Diane, le Lumière

                            Shang Palace: expensive tedious Cantonese, no more worth a star than any of the other Shangri-La restaurants (the great M has its reasons that reason knows not), but not bad at all.

                            Heard good reports about La Truffière, want to go.

                            Was there, okay but not crazy about:

                            Le 39V (no reproach to the cooking - it's only textbook Ducassian vulgate, but by all means go for the insane decor). Frédéric Vardon a quite able chef, but no genius there. Sometimes genius is not what is asked for.

                            Kei - again nothing wrong with it, most elements on the plate perfectly right, but the whole thing failing to work as a coherent ensemble. Distinctly less boring than L'Agapé Substance though so I think it is worth being tried. Amazingly stuffy service with a touch of surrealism.

                            Cyril "quand je veux je débauche toute la cuisine de Fréchon" Lignac le Quinzième: no.
                            Sur Mesure: NO.
                            I cannot type that NO loud enough.

                            1. re: Ptipois

                              You found L'Agape Substance boring? I was there for dinner when it first opened and again for dinner in May. I thought the cooking developed exponentially over that span. It was a bit more hectic in May, but I thought the ingredients, technique and presentation were all superb and quite fabulous.

                            2. re: PhilD

                              It should be odd if Michelin stars were a reliable source or reference. There are many reasons for a restaurant to get a first star, not all of them related to food. The awarding of a star counts for zero in my motivation to visit a new place.