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Feb 28, 2012 01:43 PM

Morito, Exmouth Market/Farringdon, London

Fried baby squid, fairly tender, with a couple of rare rubbery bites, framed in a delicate batter, and given a boost of salt, along with a fairly thick sprinkle of harissa and perhaps a bit too much tang from lemon juice that went beyond cutting the deep fried richness.

Very good flavour in the pork belly -- heavy with fennel flavours from whole spice, the lean parts fairly moist and firm, the fatty parts with good soft sticky texture, and bits of crisp. A good dish, although I couldn't help but think that roughly the same price would have paid for a full plate of slightly superior roast pork at Gold Mine, or the chicharron with a whole plate of other stuff at El Rancho de Lalo.

Enjoyably meaty and fishy flavour in the cod roe, a mouthful of tiny soft pops, piqued by a sprinkle of red peppery powder and julienned mint. Some of the pieces were cut a little thick and felt slightly under seasoned in the middle.

Good not but great on the whole. I remember enjoying tapas at the bar in Moro much more, but there I ordered more basic items (e.g. tortilla, patatas bravas). Are these where the strengths lie?

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  1. I found the food to be OK, but everything was let down by the staff that were on that day. If you are going to work in a restaurant at least try and pretend you enjoy your job.