We are going to Sevilla in May, any suggestions for dinner. Having lived in NYC for most of my life, we appreciate good food; but we don't need a place too formal or fancy.
Also, if anybody has ideas for Flamenco that would be great.
We are also going to be in Seville in May and we booked a evening performance for us at Tablao El Arenal for Flamenco at the suggestion of my travel agent who travels to the region quite a bit.
They have two showings per night 8 and 10pm. We are not planning to have dinner here, so I am not sure how the food is.
Have fun and good luck.
Have a look at my Sevilla tapas blog - lots of people have found it useful as a resource. Tapas bars and restaurants are listed alphabetically, by neighbourhood and cuisine.
Casa de la Memoria (9pm) and the Museo de Flamenco (7pm) also put on short programmes daily. Just an hour long performance, no food.
Have fun! May is a great time to visit Sevilla.
I attempted to reach out to you last week via your blog. I wanted to get more information on the tapeo (pricing availability, etc.) you offer in Seville. Would you please let me know the best way to reach out to you?
I will be in Seville, on May 17 and 18th.
Thank you in advance,
just came back from a week spent between Sevilla and Córdoba and had a ball. With loads of help and suggestions from this board, and some tips from our hotel we did the following:
Tapas for lunch, perched on a bar stool, loads of Sevilla businessmen giving serious attention to their nosh, loved the hamburguesa de gambas al ajillo (garlicky shrimp 'hamburgers') impaled on toothpicks, huevos estrellados + patatas y gorgonzola (scrambled eggs slithering over o so good sliced, saute potatoes with gorgonzola on top, jeez, instant crise de foie just looking at it, but worth it), cordero al miel (braised chunk of lamb in honey), taco de presa Iberica + Idiazabal gratinado (chunk of Iberico pork with Idiazabal (Basque, smoked I think) cheese, and diminutive alcachofas with sherry and ham. We had/made room for a yummy 'tapa-postre' of ice cream with chocolate chips bathed in an indecent amount of PX (dark, viscous, naturally sweet wine). Service was (a mite too) attentive, total bill for tapas for 2 with finos and wine by glass, around €40
A modern place down by the bullring (really), big blackboards with all tapas written up on wall, open plan kitchen, a bit cool and the staff a bit too eager/pushy. Enjoyed the piruletas de chorizo - chorizo popsicle/lollies drenched in technicoloured mayo and the milhojas de verduras - not a pastry-type millefeuille, but just layers of delish grilled aubergines, courgettes etc. Had a tinto de verano (red wine spritzer) and asked the waiter what the diff. was between this and sangria - sangria es para turistas, he said (which of course we aren't/weren't).
Probably the most Spanish/Sevillano/tipico, with loads of people propped up at tall tables on the pavement outside, and waiters swinging at speed in and out, bringing trays of gorgeous things - the crujienta de patatas con camaron was to die for: a succulent prawn wrapped up in shoestring potatoes and plunged in hot oil; tuna on the other hand was too big and overcooked.
This was the standout, so good we went twice: a real buzz, modern, sleek, black decor and heaviing with people. Bar at the front, resto at the back, same menu, different sized portions. Tempted by the day's special (seared squid on new potatoes) but went for a salad of canónigos (lamb's lettuce) with tiny roast beet dice and Balsamic dressing, a spectacular piece of flaky hake (merluza) in a black (from squid ink) tempura crust served with romesco sauce - imagine it, black on red - and I think there were some green asparagus too.
Sat next to and got talking to a delightful guy, originally Iranian, grew up in the States, left recently with his Swiss wife to settle in Sevilla in search of a better quality of life. Can't get much better than this, we all agreed. He recommended Azeit (near Eslava, mentioned on these boards too, but which we missed) and Azotea.
Our only 'real' meal - and we came away slightly wondering why we bothered, except out of curiosity. After tucking into tapas all round the city, tasting menus somehow lose their charm and start fo feel a bit stilted and artificial. Only one other table occupied on a Tuesday evening (dinner) and rather sharp, know-it-all sommelier, lacking that complicitous approach that's essential in a good wine waiter. Food (tasting menu €70 with wines to match) was about 70% superb: gaspacho of beets with tiny almond dice and mojama; 3 slim shrimps from Huelva floating in an ajo blanco with seaweed and tiny amaretti jelly cubes; a 'yogur' of foie gras and peach jam in a verrine (glass) with pleasingly crunchy fruit breadcrumbs (i.e. from a fruit bread) - the chef's good on textures as well as flavours. Then a perfectly poached egg on consomme with a cube of Iberian pork with a shatteringly fragile caramel crust - the texture thing again, plus petits pois and ham froth/foam . Then hake/merluza with violet potato puree and a saffrony suquet sauce - here the texture was a bit lacking, soft fish + pot. puree + smooth sauce. Lamb was long/slow-cooked, melting tender, with a brik/filo parcel of veggies and a minty sauce - again, all soft, no texture. Puds were disappointing (but I'm very choosy where puds are concerned - they have to be worth the calories and these weren't ) - a pretty pre-postre of carpaccio of fresh strawbs and then a real nursery pudding of orange flavoured cream a bit like tapioca with cinnamon ice cream and a kind of Carnival type fried pastry. Glad we went, wouldn't rush to go back.
Then we got the AVE train to Córdoba and had another 2 days feasting there, and returned to Sevilla to get our plane, with just enough time between train station and airport for another quick fix at ZELAI: completely wonderful shellfish soup in a glass (cappuccino de mejillones y mariscos) with a mini-skewer of mussels perched on top (pic below); croquetas de jamon so light they kind of floated away - and remember, these are made of ham in a thick bechamel sauce and deep fried) on a splodge of humous, a magnificently underdone tataki-style tuna triangle with chunks of tomato, onion and parsley oil, a mini-hamburger (pink inside - tell them if you want it well done) with mini-seedy bread bun, curry mayo and chunky chips that only the Spaniards can do - wafer thin crust without, mealy and melting within. With that we climbed back onto our plane to Barcelona...
Will report on Cordoba separately....
re: Sue Style
Sue many thanks for this excellent info. I'll be spending about a week in the city in October and have filed your report for future consultation.
Question: It would appear that tapas will be the way to go for most meals in Sevilla. Were you able to make reservations to sit at the bar, or even at a table, at any of the tapas spots you visited?
Also, do you (or does anyone else) happen to know if any of the places you mention, or any other first-rank bars/restaurants are open Sunday and Monday nights? Those two nights seem problematic based on my preliminary research..
hi erica - no need (and often not possible) to book seats at the bar at any of the places mentioned. And if you're there early (by Spanish standards), i.e. around 1.30/2 for lunch or any time between 8 and 9 in the evening, you'll find space. Not sure about which ones are open Sun/Mon, the only oneI know is closed Monday is Abantal - we walked round there from our great hotel (mercifully close), Hospes something de Baeza, to find all shutters down - check on the various websites and on azahar.sevilla's site, which is an excellent resource.
Another vote for flamenco at Casa de la Memoria. The best artists perform here on a regular basis, and it should at least give you a glimpse of the beauty of the art. Only performances and no dinner/drinks and entrance is less than half than at the regular tablaos. Pastora Galván, voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics, danced here until recently, and she is representative of the standard. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction...
If you are in Sevilla on May 8th, I highly recommend to see the 27 year old flamenco dance genious Rocío Molina in Teatro Central. Could easily be the highlight of your trip. She won the National Danze prize last year, has been voted best flamenco dancer by Spanish critics several years and New York Times described her in 2009 as "one of the finest soloists in the world today". Financial Times after her latest performance in London: "Molina has genius: irresistible, all-consuming, all-powerful."