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Another one of those threads asking for help

Bkeats Feb 25, 2012 11:40 AM

Hi again. I originally asked a question some months back asking about coming to Paris over the Christmas/NYE holidays or at the end of March. Based on advice from this board, we are coming at the end of March. I’ve booked a flat in Saint Germain not too far from the river. I’ve been to Paris a few times before mostly on business. My wife has only been once nearly 20 years ago and this will be the first time for our teenage foodie son who picked Paris as our destination.

The flat we picked is supposed to have a fully equipped kitchen and its our goal to shop in the markets and try and prepare at least one meal each day. We’re decent cooks and like to experiment so I’m looking forward to wandering the markets and finding things that we don’t usually see in NYC. I’d love to get some recommendations for markets/shops in the Saint Germain area that we could explore.

I’ve got some thoughts/plans about our dining out. We arrive Friday morning on March 23. I’m keeping things simple for the first day and plan on having lunch at Le Relais de l’Entrecote since its not too far from where we are staying. I figure we can pick up something light at a take away place and some wine to stay in the first night and get some rest. Any good take away suggestions? I read about Da Rosa on David Lebovitz’s blog and I was wondering if they did takeout.

We have dinner reservation for Saturday night at Au Gourmand. Might not seem too exciting but someone gave me a high recommendation on it. On Tuesday, we are planning on dinner at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. We have a reservation for lunch Wednesday at Les Papilles.

So I’m asking for help on narrowing in on a lunch spot for Sunday and Monday (planning to make dinner in those nights). I’d love to find a place that had good oysters for one of those days if not both. Also in search of steak tartare. I have fond memories of sitting in a café as a much younger man eating steak tartare. Plate after plate of the stuff. Then we still have to find a last dinner place for Thursday as we are leaving Friday afternoon.

Is L’Ami Jean open for lunch? Can’t find hours on their website. Choosing between LMJ and Spring, what would you recommend?

I read a good review of Le Grand Pan. Is that worthwhile for a last dinner?

Any early word on Terroir Parisien? I read its supposed to open soon.

Thanks in advance for your guidance.

  1. Parigi Feb 25, 2012 11:56 AM

    "Is L’Ami Jean open for lunch? "


    "Choosing between LMJ and Spring, what would you recommend?"

    They are about par for me in terms of food quality and inventiveness. The atmosphere of CLAJ is more fun an boisterous (which some people don't like). Service is excellent in both. CLAJ may generally be more user-friendly, Spring more posh.
    Their cuisine is very different. If I were you I would try both and not either/or.

    "So I’m asking for help on narrowing in on a lunch spot for Sunday and Monday (planning to make dinner in those nights). I’d love to find a place that had good oysters for one of those days if not both. Also in search of steak tartare."

    Most bistros change menus every day or every week. Can't guarantee you these dishes on a weekday anywhere, much less on the traditional resto-closing days of Sunday and Monday.
    Oysters often appear on menus of Chez Casimir. Good luck.
    Les Fines Gueules has tasty tartare. It's open everyday, I think. But two problems. 1. The tartare is often cut thickish, which is not to my liking. 2. Laidack and I had colossal problems after eating there once, for reasons that this site forbids one to elaborate.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Parigi
      Bkeats Feb 25, 2012 12:07 PM

      Buon giorno Parigi! Come Sta?

      Yes, Sundays and Mondays seem to be a challenge. Several of the places I've checked are closed. I will check out Chez Casimir and Les Fines Gueules. Mille grazie.

    2. mangeur Feb 25, 2012 12:19 PM

      There is a fine little epicerie on rue Saint Peres with good rotis chickens and other take out. This jewel is also open until 10pm for convenient emergencies. http://chrisoscope.com/2007/12/05/lep... You are also not far from the Buci market street (Kayser bakery at rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie, Da Rosa Epicerie at 62 Rue de Seine) or from Monoprix on rue de Rennes off St. Germain which has an extensive grocery in the basement.

      1 Reply
      1. re: mangeur
        Bkeats Feb 25, 2012 12:28 PM

        Thanks mangeur - looks perfect as its only a few blocks away.

      2. o
        Oakglen Feb 25, 2012 02:12 PM

        My son loves the Steak Tartare at Brasserie Balzar, an easy walk, and always open.

        2 Replies
        1. re: Oakglen
          plafield Feb 25, 2012 05:47 PM

          We had a great meal at Au Gourmand! Lovely little place! I also have heard great things about L Grand Pan though it's a bit of a schlep to get there from Paris central. I'll look forward to a report back if you decide to eat there. We're renting an apartment a block away from there in May and hope to make it our neighborhood place for a couple of meals at least.

          I far preferred L'ami Jean to Spring in every way and suspect your son would as well if you have to choose.

          1. re: plafield
            oferl Feb 25, 2012 11:16 PM

            About 2 years ago, we also had a lovely dinner at Au Gourmand, was relatively reasonable in prices, cosy place with very solid food.. I don't see recent reviews but i hope it still holds the good standarts..

        2. Delucacheesemonger Feb 26, 2012 11:12 AM

          l am one of the few who report on Le Grand Pan, things to get are the cotes de porc, veau, boeuf in that order. Place is a bit of a walk from damn near anything, looks a bit tired, food great, people lovely, and 15-20 wines served from barrel. Whether a last Paris meal, cannot say, l go @ once a month.

          1. ChefJune Feb 26, 2012 11:21 AM

            We had wonderful steak tartare at Josephine, Chez Dumonet.

            IIWY, I think I'd plan to cook both meals in on Sunday and not worry about what's open. One of the joys of having an apartment with a kitchen!

            6 Replies
            1. re: ChefJune
              Parigi Feb 26, 2012 11:33 AM

              Completely agree. Best sendoff.

              1. re: Parigi
                Bkeats Feb 26, 2012 02:42 PM

                Ok, so anyone know of a good place in the area to pick up a platter of oysters to have in then?

                1. re: Bkeats
                  Delucacheesemonger Feb 26, 2012 02:48 PM

                  While more expensive than other haunts, Huiterie Regis on Rue Montfaucin at Mabillon metro stop does a great job.

                  1. re: Bkeats
                    Parigi Feb 26, 2012 03:11 PM

                    "The area" is St Germain, right?
                    The Maubert market has good oysters, but it is not open every day.
                    No market is open Monday. You have to shop for food Sunday morning latest. Better eat the osyter right away. Sunday morning you can shop for a death-by-foie-gras meal for Monday.

                    1. re: Parigi
                      Bkeats Feb 27, 2012 05:24 AM

                      I love the concept of death by foie gras! I'll bring extra Lipitor.

                      1. re: Bkeats
                        ChefJune Feb 27, 2012 12:35 PM

                        Cherry Pills are better and won't kill you! Just sayin'...

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