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Feb 24, 2012 04:11 PM

Recommendations for boulangerie, fromagerie, traiteur near Poissoniere Metro?

Hello - I am renting an apartment on Rue des Messageries, very close to the Poissoniere Metro. I'm doing research (too much - this is very distracting when I should be doing other things like, um...working!) and have a good list and game plan in the works that I hope to run by you amazing hounds soon.

But I must ask for some advice now, in the early planning stages. Since I plan to eat quite a bit in the apartment, I would like your recs for the types of places I have listed that are close by - i.e. not "destination" examples, just ones you particularly like that I can get easily. If you would give your recs with specific examples of what you like in any given place, and why, I will be particularly grateful!

Bakery/cafe - I have Du Pain et Des Idees noted, are there any other particularly notable baguette/croissant/bread places close by? This would ideally be the place I could sit at for coffee and croissant while deciding what to do that day, or the place that I could grab a baguette or levain (for example) to eat with fridge stuff for lunch or dinner.

Cheese shop - I think quite a few of my dinners will include bread, cheese and a salad, so finding one with Chowhound approval near the apartment is important to me. I will likely come home with delights from destination fromageries I have noted, but if there is a particular one close, that would be helpful.

Traiteur - I'm learning, I believe, that this is a place where I can get cooked things to take home. Does this include charcuterie, or should I make that a separate category? Is this the place that I can grab a roasted chicken for dinner after a long day? What are your recs close by?

Thanks for all the great stuff already posted, and for any help you can give in this particular post!

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  1. Bakeries and cafés are usually distinct. Most café won't mind if you bring your croissants, but it's polite to ask, since most cafés have their own croissant (by which I mean the ones they bought from a bakery usually nearby).

    There is a Grenier à Pain on rue du faubourg Poissonière that I quite like (bakery). The café on Place Franz Liszt are not unpleasant, but my advice really is to stroll the neighborhood to find places you like. There is also a Grenier à Pain on rue du 8 mai 1945, by Gare de l'Est, that has some very good breakfast pastries. I also like Saint Preux on rue Cadet - or rather I like their caramelised apple roll (chaussonx au pommes).

    Foodwise, you can walk to the Marché Saint Quentin, whose chicken and cheese guy have been much discussed, and there is also charcuterie and traiteur. You can also walk, in the opposite direction, towards the rue des Martyrs, that has lots of goof stuff in every kind of food. Closer, there are also a few good places on rue de Rochechouart, esp. a very original cheese place and two good bakeries and a pastry shop.

    I don't think it's a great neighborhood for good little bistrots but I know others disagree. Casimir and Chez Michel are obvious responses. There are also a few good little places on rue Condorcet between Poissonière et Rodier. And of course I loove Wally le Saharien at the corner of Rodier and Tour d'Auvergne. There is a Beaujolais place on rue Milton that is very good and authentic. Also, Jean on rue Saint Lazare, Olympe on rue Saint-George, but we're not so close anymore.

    I would buy Le Petit Lebey des Bistrots Parisiens for places one does not necessarily think of.

    20 Replies
    1. re: souphie

      Souphie! Thanks so much - I was hoping to hear from you. I knew you had a place on Rue du Fauborg Poissoniere that you liked, but I couldn't put my fingers on the name. I've been reading Zeblog, and drooling over your Picasa gallery.

      Advice well taken about a place to feel comfortable sitting.

      My decision to post this thread was using google maps street view for Urfa Dürüm and seeing a cheese shop on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. It occurred to me that it may or may not be of hound quality, and that I would likely be passing quite a few as I wander my area and wondering the same thing.

      I'm very excited to explore the Marche St. Quentin. I have read of the "Ultimate Chicken Guy" to quote Parigi, but am not clear if he sells roasted chicken, or a mysteriously vast array of raw birds I may need to work up the gumption to cook myself after I see what I have to work with in the apartment kitchen. I believe there is a butcher there who sells some charcuterie as well? Anything especially noteworthy there?

      Do you know the name of the original cheese shop on Rue de Rochechouart? Or the closest cross street?

      Thanks for the recs of Chez Michel/Casimir - they are indeed on the list. I am adding your recs above. Can you help me out with the Rue Milton rec - what is the name of the resto?

      I am right around the corner from Albion, and I am researching the whole Rue des Petites Écuries/Richer fengshui (L'Office? La Cuisine de Chez Moi?) as well as Le Galopin and Chez Marie Louise. I am narrowing down my museum choices along with my destination restos (I have been obsessing over Au Dernier Metro to the point of seeking apartment rentals in that region just so I could eat there repeatedly - Parigi steered me away, and I'm glad) and will post my itinerary and hope for comments soon!

      1. re: saticoy

        "Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. It occurred to me that it may or may not be of hound quality"

        Rue du Fbg St Denis, with its rough&tumble look, has excellent food shops. Quite a few good traiteurs, from Julhès to Terra Corsa.
        Indeed Urfa Dürum is your epicenter.
        Half way between Urfa Dürüm is Boucherie Gourmande, at n°86, otherwise known as my Harvard butcher (the butcher Monsieur Laurent's daughter lectures at Harvard), who has excellent beef and pork and lamb cuts, as well as wonderful cooked dishes. He also has "food kits", such as several types of pork roasts, seasoned, prepared, ready to be thrown in the oven.My fave is filet de porc à l'ancienne, wrapped in a layer of mustard in a layer of bacon, meticulously trussed as though by the Atelier Chanel.

        Unless you want to try your hand at cooking from scratch and go up 2 blocks to Marché St Quentin to the UCG, who very often has porc fermier.
        Btw, UCG does have roast chicken, roast duck…

        "or a mysteriously vast array of raw birds"

        That too. He often changes his bird casting from week to week. So try a different one, whatever is available. My faves are: Coucou de Rennes, Géline de Touraine, Challan.

        The poissonnier across the aisle from him supplies Spring. Need I say more.

        The UCG also has excellent foie gras and… black cherry jam ! I do not have a sweet tooth and I'm wild about that jam.
        The boulangerie near the UCG is very good too. Its financier has about 3 times more vanilla than elsewhere.

        Vieilleanglaise once recommended a pastry shop around there, near Château d'Eau. All this food talk gives me a memory blackout on its name.

        "I believe there is a butcher there who sells some charcuterie as well? Anything especially noteworthy there?"

        Look for the fromager who has a sign about selling "nasty cheeses". -- You may never leave the market.

        "Do you know the name of the original cheese shop on Rue de Rochechouart?"

        My guess would be La Ferme Saint Hubert, 36 rue Rochechouart. Julot, can you confirm ?

        If you continue to walk south on rue Fbg Poissonnière and rue Poissonnière, in no time the street turns into another good market, rue Montorgueil. It is more posh in atmosphere, - for heavens sake QE2 had her walkabout there, - but not higher quality than St Quentin-rue Fbg St Denis. There are at least 3 more boulangeries for you to try.

        1. re: Parigi

          Vieille's pastry shop
          Tholoniat. 47 rue du Chateau d’Eau

          1. re: Parigi

            Oh, merci beaucoup! I will prepare myself to have great difficulty leaving the Marche St. Quentin, and will look forward to nasty cheeses!

            The porc à l'ancienne would be a wonderful way to acquaint myself with haute trussing, but I'm afraid, since I am traveling solo, it might take up too many meals in my precious 14 days.

            The UCG - I don't have all that much of a sweet tooth either, but when you say black cherry jam and foie gras in the same sentence, my mind begins to whirl. Is this fresh foie gras for me to sear at home, or a preparation like torchon? Does anyone sell good stock or demiglace? I am completely unfamiliar with the birds you mentioned, so I may ask for advice on the Home Cooking board once I see what he is carrying.

            And I will certainly get fish from his neighbor!

            Thanks again....looks like I landed in a terrific spot - I'm beyond excited....

            1. re: saticoy

              "Is this fresh foie gras for me to sear at home, or a preparation like torchon?"

              I have seen foie gras in jar, mi cuit, not cuit, at different times at the UCM. Maybe not all at the same time.

              "Does anyone sell good stock or demiglace?"

              In France people tend to make their own stock. The better the chicken, the better carcass, the better the stock.

              1. re: Parigi

                Yes - I think I will keep this vacation to a minimum of cooking - although the prospect of making a stock with fish, fowl or meat from a reputable French source is extremely tempting. I was just rapturously thinking of whipping up a savory black cherry sauce for a quickly seared piece of foie gras...easy Saticoy...easy.....

                  1. re: saticoy

                    <although the prospect of making a stock with fish, fowl or meat from a reputable French source is extremely tempting.>

                    and if you have any left when it's time for you to depart, I'll bet Parigi or Souphie would be glad to help you "dispose" of it! :)

                    1. re: ChefJune

                      Ha! Something to consider! I may send the Chow Alert out if my fridge winds up too full and I can't pack it all back with me!

                  2. re: Parigi

                    Saw both UCG and Harvard butcher this morning.
                    UCG confirmed that he has all 3 types of foie gras, but usually with foie gras frais, the kind you prepare at home, you have to order a day in advance, and he will get it for you for the next day.
                    There are several butchers in the market, all selling poultry. UCG's name is Marcel Devineau. His is the poultry stand right inside the main door on bld Magenta (there are also two angled doors). His stand has the mysterious sign "Chez Toutoune", but he ain't no Toutoune.

                    As for our Harvard butcher:
                    1. Monsieur Laurent's pork chop kit (filet mignon à l'ancienne) comes in all sizes. You can specify the size you want. We usually get one about 500 grams, and the 2 of us have two meals out of it. It is also very cold with mayo, homemade of course, with extra mustard.
                    2. He sells a lot of homemade charcuterie. Today we tried his own jambon torchon: tasty yet lean and not unduly salty, unlike 99% of available ham. The problem is that you will never eat industrial ham again.

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Grazie! You are so kind to keep my request in mind when speaking with UCG. I appreciate it, and the tips on locating him, very much.

                      I will absolutely try the porc à l'ancienne - and hope my apartment has a blender/processor to make mayo! Also excited about the ham - the last time I was in France I had my first crepe jambon fromage from a vendor in Le Puy en Velay and that ham was a revelation. Slices laid out at the hotel breakfast were amazing also.

                      What is a Toutoune?

                      1. re: saticoy

                        Pierre Jancou, the hunky chef of Vivant, just gave his fave addresses of the quartier.
                        I esp agree with 3 addresses in the Petites Ecuries 'hood:
                        1. L'Office, which has been reopened and managed by 2 Americans;
                        2. Cisternino, a wonderful Italian traiteur which is very near your rental. Everybody converges there Thursday to get the Burrata. By weekend there's none left;
                        3. and the very friendly and nice wine bar Autour d'un verre.

                        Did ydou look up toutoune?

                        1. re: Parigi

                          Hello, and sorry for the delayed response. I had to impose a moratorium on vacation planning so I could get some work work, no vacation!

                          I think perhaps M. Devineau's sign refers to the potential of his female customers....such as this one!? He's got two weeks to work with me, but I admit, I have a slight bit of a head start!

                          Hunky is right - M. Jancou is downright dreamy! Hmmmm....Vivant wasn't on my list, but that could change! Glad to hear he recommends L'Office, I will check it out, and I will converge with others for fresh burrata...oh you BET! Nice to have a recommended wine bar in the neighborhood as well.

                          Thank you so much - I am going to post my itinerary in a new thread and ask for a little fine tuning...

                1. re: Parigi

                  Their nougat is sold in a ridiculously long strip that is beautiful. A really neat hostess gift and tastes as good as it looks. This in reference to Tholoniat pastry. In addition a 'toutoune' is a fat woman

                  1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                    That sounds perfect to bring back for my mother in law - then I get to have some too! Thanks for the rec, and the definition!

                    1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                      if you are canadien, a toutoune is a fat lady... if you are french, a toutoune is a female bow-wow... usage is a little confused because it's occasionally a term of endearment applied to rounded, cuddly women by their boyfriends/ husbands (whether because of their curves or their affectionate/ puppyish nature, i dunno)

                      it's also regional variation of Tatoune/ Tony, the diminutive of Antoine/ Anthony... Chez Toutoune/ Tony's Place makes more sense than the other meanings

                      1. re: Parnassien

                        Well, I guess that M. Toutoune can make a toutoune out of this American, but I refuse to consider a dog in either side of this scenario!

                        BTW Parnassien - your posts have had a great deal of influence on me as I plan my itinerary - I hope you will weigh in when I ask for help fine tuning it....!

                        1. re: saticoy

                          as you walk the streets of paris, you will find that toutous and toutounes are very much part of the equation ... hint: always carry a bag of baby wipes to clean your shoes from the gifts that toutous leave for unsuspecting tourists :)

                          and thanks for your kind words... of course i will weigh in form time to time... but i'm a parisien so i have a different perspective that is not always helpful and think that visitors/ expats can offer better advice ... ok, ok, i'm pretending to be modest :)

              2. re: souphie

                Alas, the Relais Beaujolais on Rue Milton is no more.

                1. re: Laidback

                  Worse, it is replaced by some eatery that blasts Brazilian music and has "theme nights".