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salmac Jan 22, 2012 07:56 PM

Breakfast at Les Halles, Lyon?

I see Les Halles opens at 7...... Do most things open then? If we arrive that early can we get a light breakfast there? We want to be sure to visit the cheese shop. When should I expect it to open? We are traveling in early March.

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    EatDrinkLyon Jan 25, 2012 03:35 AM

    As ChefJune says, things open at different times. It's a case of taking a wander round and seeing what's open. It's nice there early - no crowds, and more locals. If you went before ten, whilst there may not be a café open per se, the Boulangerie de l'ile Barbe will be - this is an award winning bakery - I'd suggest buying a pastry there and then grabbing a coffee, taking your pastry with you, to any number of places that will be serving coffee - for example, the ecaillerie that is attached to Cellerier, (another famous (and better in my opinion than Mere Renée Richard) cheese shop), called Chez Georges, opens at 8.30. Staff are friendly and you can grab a coffee standing at one of the stools, or at the bar. Sometimes they give you a plate of salami too - depends who's serving.

    http://www.cellerier-halles-de-lyon.c...

    Other vendors not to be missed - this depends if you just want to look, if you're buying food to cook later, or buying souvenirs... I'd say don't miss Seve, the chocolatier; the cheese places will vacuum pack for you if you're going to be on a plane within 24 hours. It's all fantastic - my advice would be to start in one corner and work your way up and down each aisle. It won't take long! And then you won't miss anything....

    Regarding the market - it is indeed beautiful to see - all I would say is choose your produce carefully if you buy (although it's different if you're buying cheese or bread obviously); make sure you buy from a producteur and not a distributeur (the distributors will have huge vans behind the stall) and be aware of pickpockets who operate there every day.

    Enjoy!

    Remember that Les Halles is closed on Mondays.

    2 Replies
    1. re: EatDrinkLyon
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      r.vacapinta Jan 29, 2012 02:15 PM

      Boulanger de l'ile Barbe in Les Halles is a great place to have a light breakfast and they are open early. We regularly had breakfast there when we were in Lyon.

      They have a small but pleasant seating area where you can eat their pastries along with some Mariage Frères tea while reading the morning paper.

      1. re: r.vacapinta
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        salmac Jan 29, 2012 05:32 PM

        Thanks so much!

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      ChefJune Jan 24, 2012 09:13 AM

      If you are interested in early morning shopping, I'd recommend the open air market along the Quai St. Antoine (Saone River). Many of Lyon's chefs shop there daily and the selections are breathtaking. You will wish for a kitchen to prepare some of them. There are food stands at the market where you can get breakfast. It's a wonderful photo op, as well.

      1 Reply
      1. re: ChefJune
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        salmac Jan 24, 2012 09:30 AM

        I had read about this market. It is near where we are staying. I think we will start the day there. Thanks! We are getting excited. Any other food ideas in this area of Lyon are welcome!

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        ChefJune Jan 23, 2012 12:53 PM

        There are restaurants in Les Halles and, although I've never breakfasted there, I cannot imagine they don't serve in the early am.

        Some shops open very early, but some don't. Just as some are open on Sundays, and others aren't. I'd recommend not planning to shop much before 9. And I don't know what you mean by "The Cheese Shop." There are multiple cheese vendors in the market. The most famous, of course, is Renee Richard. I've never shopped there before 10.

        3 Replies
        1. re: ChefJune
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          salmac Jan 23, 2012 01:02 PM

          Thank you. Yes, I meant Renee Richards. Do you have a suggestion about vendors that are not to be missed? Again thank you.

          1. re: salmac
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            ChefJune Jan 23, 2012 01:10 PM

            The only two I never miss are Renee Richard (no s) and Dubernet, the foie gras store. I like others, but these are my constants.

            1. re: ChefJune
              mangeur Jan 23, 2012 04:00 PM

              It was our experience also that very little was open early or much before 10am.

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