Paris Trip in March 2nd try Now with Research :-)
I have been doing lots of research on places for our upcoming trip. I have posted twice without specifics, so sorry. I should have been more specific in my requests. I am looking for mainly places that locals go. Below is my short list of places that I want to know more about. Are they really good? Lunch or Dinner? Also we'll be staying in the 8th on Rue de Constantinople. Any really good places close to there for a Parisian style breakfast.
Chez Marie Louise
Le Relais de l'isle
L'Atelier du Parc
Chez l'Ami Louis
Also an older friend is keeps steering me towards La Tour d'Argent and the Hotel Crillon. These seems somewhat antiquated to me. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
The quartier Europe (rue Constantinople) is a pretty sleepy part of Paris. I can’t think of any good cafés or boulangeries in your immediate neighbourhood. But at the top of rue Constantinople, the avenue de Villiers and the rue Lévis (an excellent market street) in the 17th are much more vibrant. Locals would probably breakfast at Dôme de Villiers on the avenue de Villiers at the corner with the rue Lévis, or Café Monceau on the ave de Villiers almost next to Dôme, or Le Village Café on the rue de la Terrasse. There’s also an branch of the award-winning boulanger-pâtissier Arnaud Delmontel at 25 rue Lévis... delish!... but take away only.
Restaurants. Many of the restaurants on your list are very heavily patronized by tourists. But most good restaurants in central Paris are. After all, there are 60 million French and foreign visitors a year and only 2.2 million of us Parisiens. Most Parisiens look for “la valeur sûre” and others for style/ atmosphere/ trendiness rather than the excellence of the cuisine. Assuming that a preponderance of Parisiens at a restaurant indicates a higher level of cooking could be quite risky.
And oops, I'd cross off l'Ami Louis. Some love it. Some hate it. I’m one of the haters. Some of the dishes are indeed quite good but way way overpriced… cuisine bourgeoise at haute cuisine prices. I try and try but just can’t justify dropping a couple hundred euros for a meal here. And apologies to those who love it.
OK, now to your list.
Huitrerie Regis, excellent but read http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/813538 Was at Pleine Mer yesterday and l just love it.
Les Papilles is very inexpensive with good wines, great food, and an excellent patron. My problem is that it is almost all filled with Americans.
Le Cinq for lunch at 85-90 euros should not be missed. Service and ambiance unmatched
in my opinion locally. Great wines and l have generally had stellar food as well. Push the barriers with the staff and you can get whatever is on the a la carte menu on your discount lunch. Do avoid the champagne cart for cost considerations.
Taillevent, since Vrinat died is not the same for me, a bit stodgy in food, service still great.
L'Astrance was not my kind of place enough said, read http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/783176 l was the other diner with uhockey.
L'Ami Louis is my fav restaurant in town, going Sunday for lunch.
Saturne is almost more West Village than Parisian. Wonderful French small appellation wine list, very inventive food, helpful staff.
Add to these as Parigi said, Chez Casimir, and my perennial fav Chez Denise for true little rough at edges Parisian bistros.
Uneven old clunky chairs, lots of wine in carafe, loud and raucous ( when there 18 of the 30 seats were one group of older French men who were very enthusiastic ) big silly coatracks that have room for 6 coats but look like a snowman with 15 coats on them, tired furnishings, and right near Gare De Nord, enough ? Cannot comment other than praise on the menu, the food, and the servers/managers , l had a blast.
Now we have something to work on !
Near the rue de Constantinople is Bistro Lorette. Classic bistro food, well executed without being fussy.
And you will not be far from bld de Batignolles. Don't miss the Friday morning organic market there.
Huiterie Regis: good
Chez Toinette: sort of touristy. If you want a festive bistro with good food, I would hands down recommend Chez Casimir and Dans Les Landes instead.
Chez Marie Louise: ok the last time I went, but have not been recently. Perhaps others have more recent experience.
L'Ange 20: same as Chez Marie Louise.
Le Relais de l'isle
That is a big cluster of "stars". How long are you staying? Will you be able to digest them all, physically and mentally? :-)
Les Papilles: good wines. A bit of a markup. Good comfort food.
Restaurant Mariette: dunno
L'Atelier du Parc: dunno
Saturne: very good. Atmosphere lowkey and nice, but not too festive.
Chez l'Ami Louis: everyone's fave.
In general, I am more and more inclined toward lunch, when the chefs and staff have more time to take care of one. All in all lunch offers a nicer, more relaxed atmosphere. And often restaurants offer very good lunch menus that are good value. Plus, one has a whole afternoon to walk it off and digest.
And happy anniversary.
Great place to start!! Still doing research as well. We'll be there for about 10 days. Also doing some side trips out o Versailles (probably), Fonainebleau, Malmaison, and Chartres. Of the Big Stars, which would be the one not to miss? I prefer smaller bistro and cafe type places but want to hit at least one stellar place. I see Le Cing and Taillevent mentioned the most,. I'll cross Chez Toinette off my list. Thanks!!!