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Put on yer reading glasses! It's Kukubura's trip report! (Mr. B's, Commander's, Gal's, Dante's, Dizzy's, Green Goddess, more...)

We were back in New Orleans, our favorite city, for a long weekend earlier this month after a too-long 2 1/2 year hiatus from our annual visits. Thanks as always to CH for the amazing suggestions. My pre-trip thread (here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/812019) was full of too much good advice to fit into 4 days but damn if we didn't try! Almost everything was a knockout. (Comprehensive photos will be coming to my wife's blog, Tasty Trix, within the coming weeks.) And without further ado, heeeeere we go!

We hit the ground running by heading straight to Mr. B's for our beloved BBQ shrimp, but not before first sampling the gumbo ya-ya. Last time we were in town we were keeping to a pescatarian diet (detailed here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/633414 ) so we had the seafood gumbo instead and found it a little underwhelming but this time we were down for whatever and found the gumbo ya-ya to be absolutely outstanding. Dark, earthy and smokey. Really great. The BBQ shrimp were as good as we remembered, with big plump, perfectly cooked shrimp and that peppery, buttery, garlicky sauce. I've developed a bit of a reputation on Chowhound for promoting Mr. B's BBQ shrimp, and I've even made it at home from their recipe, and I'm happy to say that I stand by all my past recs. If I had to point folks to one bite of food that defines the richness and uniqueness of creole cooking for me, it's this.

We also had some cocktails: Bloody marys and pomegranate cocktail (a couple rounds.) The lunch special cocktails are a really great deal here. They're not 25 cents, but they're not much more. Mr. B's is one of those places that balances lovely ambience with casual atmosphere in just the right way.

Thrilled with the way our dining started we strolled around the Quarter a little and ultimately ended up at Galatoire's (a return visit after a notorious Friday dinner there in 2007) where we started off with sazeracs - pleasingly bitter and sweet simultaneously. We also tore into another outstanding loaf of bread, this one slightly denser. There was still a lingering din from the lunch crowd and we noted that the room can accommodate a pretty healthy roar without you needing to shout to be heard by your companion, something you can't take for granted in loud restaurants. We ordered shrimp remoulade and oysters en brochette. The shrimp were some of the best I've had, for sure. The remoulade had the perfect amount of kick and the shrimp were buttery, rich, and meaty. Outstanding. The oysters were plump and juicy on the inside, crisp on the outside, and topped off with a beautiful smokiness from the bacon. The black butter they were soaked in just added to the decadence, although it might have come off as a bit too buttery to some. (But after the BBQ shrimp, really there was no turning back.


I also really appreciated the service - attentive but not disruptive, and unhurried as can be. We sat for some time sipping a second round of sazeracs, as the restaurant emptied out and the din of diners turned into the clink of glasses being replaced and silverware being set up. Outside we chatted with the manager and some of the wacky line-holders who were dutifully (and lucratively) saving spots for lunch the next day.

We walked around for a while and eventually had a drink at the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt, which was fully decked out for the holidays with an amazing light display. The drinks here were top notch. The sazerac was even better than Galatoire's (a trend that would continue with each saz) and my wife's French 75 was crisp and refreshing. We were lucky to grab a couch since it was hopping. It was nice to see the lively atmosphere in the bar, although the restaurant was empty.

For dinner we went to the Green Goddess and put in our names, heading to the Carousel Bar for Vieux Carres while we waited. We were bummed that the piano bar was closed off for renovations, leaving the bar area feeling less festive than usual. Still, we love that place. After a couple of spins around the room we headed back to Exchange Alley to check on how things were going.

The Green Goddess was a revelation. Almost everything we had was awesome. We sat outside on a beautiful night and really took our time ordering, since every dish sounded so amazing. We started off with their takes on a sazerac and a mint julep and eventually ordered Oysters Delacroix and Shrimp "Wearing a Grass Skirt." The oysters were plump and juicy and the comforting broth, smokey bacon and braised Napa cabbage were all perfect. And the shrimp were also perfectly cooked and presented in a really creative way. Plus the dark sauce (their version of NOLA BBQ shrimp sauce) was reduced to a really rich flavor.

The mains we ordered were the Cochon de Lei and Louisiana Bangers and Mash. The cochon was really rich and beautifully balanced. wrapped in banana leaves, the pork was rich and complex tasting. The bangers and mash was the only near-miss since overall the dish was too sweet. The sausages used were great, but the mash and sauce just sort of overpowered. We had another cocktail with this course, I believe the Meantime, a whiskey cocktail. Another winner!

The Green Goddess was a definite highlight and we'll go back. Chef Chris came out several times to chat and you could tell that he has great enthusiasm for flavors and for cooking and it shows in his food.

We had planned to go to see Kermit at Vaughn's later that night but we were way too tired and decided to skip since we didn't want to lose our whole next day to exhaustion.

The next day, however, started off in a really memorable way. Surprisingly warm, we grabbed iced cafe au laits at Cafe du Monde and walked over to the WWOZ studios. I brought a couple of copies of my NOLA-inspired art book to give the station as a gift and Keith, the trad jazz DJ, ended up letting me talk about how much I love the city and how it inspired my work on air for a few minutes. If anyone heard that segment, that was me!

We meandered through the Quarter and eventually over to the St Charles streetcar to ride up to what's always one of our most highly anticipated meals: Lunch at Commander's Palace. Ti Martin greeted us at the door and heartily endorsed our plan to arrive very early in order to drink at the bar before lunch. Soon after arriving at the bar and ordering a couple of great cocktails we were surrounded by a group of suited men, a couple of whom looked familiar. One of them soon started talking to us and ww learned that they were an annual get-together of owners and managers of pretty much every major hospitality group or business in town: Galatoire's, Mr B's ACME, food distributors, country clubs, etc… They were lubricated and hilarious, as you can imagine. 

Eventually we made our way up to the garden room where, from the joyous ambient noise level, we were joining many parties already in progress.  We decided to start off with a round of expertly-mixed martinis and by sharing an appetizer before moving on to more plates, so we split the boudin-stuffed pork belly, which was an incredible little bite. Served over braised greens and a pig trotter jus, this was a little plate that packed a hugely complex flavor. Sweet, salty, rich, smokey. The perfect little thing to share.

We went for Commander's Palace classics for the next course: Turtle soup and oyster absinthe "dome."  The turtle soup was just as promised: Rich and layered, with tartness and sweetness. The dome was something that I'd been looking forward to for a long time. We had a Chincoteague oyster stew at a Baltimore restaurant not long before and, while I recognize that the recipes are totally different, the norther cousin tasted like lovely plump oysters sitting in a bowl of unseasoned milk. With Commander's dome, however, the broth was potently flavorful, with a comforting warmth that really hit home. And the oysters were top notch: Tender, salty and completely amazing.

I should also mention the bread: In addition to the little chunks of delicious garlic bread that the start you off with, we were in awe of the French bread that accompanied our apps. After Mr. B's and Gal's it seems impossible to improve on the bread service but Commander's managed it. In all three establishments I found myself just tearing off a hunk of that beautiful, warm loaf and slowly, deeply inhaling the aroma of the tender insides.

For mains we asked the server to pair a couple of glasses of red wine to our entrees and we ordered the wild game-bird cassoulet and the Louisiana Cochon De Lait. The cassoulet was a revelation. The creamy beans were extremely flavorful and the duck leg and assorted other bird components were all succulent and awesome. Definitely one of the richest things I've tasted in a while and incredible. I remember the Cochon de Lait being great as well but honestly, by the time I tasted it I was losing my lucidity a little bit. Drunk on wine, cocktails and, most importantly, amazing flavors, it was all I could do to keep from bursting with joy. All around this was probably the best meal we've had at CP.

Throughout the meal the room felt increasingly celebratory. The guys from the bar filled two tables right around us and kept cracking us up with their singing and carousing. At one point I got up to use the restroom and told the guy we had talked to the most down at the bar to "keep an eye on" my wife, just to see what would happen. Tru to form he immediately jumped up at the opportunity to share a table with my wife and cracked wise about who knows what. Hilarious! Ti Martin stopped by a couple of times to chat and Chef Tory also toured the dining room, stopping at each table for a leisurely chat. The atmosphere on a day like that can't be matched anywhere else.

We finished off the meal with a couple of scotches. (We've had the bread pudding every other time we've gone and, while it's amazing, it would have killed us.) Afterwards our server Nolan took us on a tour of the grounds, including a private dining room in the wine cellar where you can have a special reverse-pairing dinner for 12 where the kitchen will make dishes matched to the wines selected. Pretty sweet! All told we were there for 3 1/2 hours and had an absolutely amazing time.

For dinner that day we headed to Cochon and it stood in pretty strong contrast to Commander's Palace (and all the meals on the previous day, as well.) One of the magnates at the CP bar poo-pooed this choice (I believe his words were "Coochon? Pffff fuck Coochon!") and while it was definitely not a BAD restaurant experience, it couldn't compare with the rest of our meals. It's the most NORMAL restaurant we visited. It could be in New York or Washington DC. The food was good but not transcendent and the atmosphere is nothing unusual. Event he pacing seemed designed to turn tables, not something we expect in New Orleans. We had some very nice cocktails and ordered a few items to split. The boudin balls were ok, although nothing special (the pickled peppers on the side, however, were great) and the rabbit livers with pepper jelly had good components, but the jelly overpowered the livers. The rabbit and dumplings were tasty but nothing you couldn't make at home easily. The oyster and meat pie was good but, again, didn't quite get up to that next level. We did a moonshine flight at the end, which ranged from way-too-drinkable to almost impossible to choke down. All in all we were not blown away, for once.

The next day we meandered through the warehouse district, checking out the awesome little farmers market, and up Magazine all the way to Casamento's only to discover that the line was out the door! Starving and looking at a wait of well over an hour we regrouped and headed up to St Charles to eat at a place that we've admired without actually trying every time we go to Commander's Palace: The Grocery. This little corner shop is exactly the sort of place we'd go to all the time if we lived in the neighborhood. We ordered a roast beef po-boy and a "muffaletta" (which they server on pressed French bread.) Sitting outside, munching on some seriously flavorful sandwiches, it was paradise.

When we got back to downtown we stopped in Cafe Adelaide for a drink. My wife, who was starting to feel sick so she got a hot toddy. I got a Swizzle Stick which, even though it was a girl drink, was delicious.

Next we headed into Drago's to try to the chargrilled oysters. The space is definitely a nightmare but we bellied up to the oyster station and ordered a dozen. I'm of two minds: On the one hand they tasted great (I mean, with all that butter and garlic how could they not?) but on the other hand the oysters weren't as plump as we'd had elsewhere that the cleaning was clearly inconsistent. There was lots of grit and broken shell all over the place. I want to check out the other location next time since the recipe itself is clearly awesome. But this location probably won't get another visit from me.

For dinner we headed up to Dante's Kitchen, which was a good move. Set in a lovely house on a quiet residential street (but directly across from Brigsten's! I've love to live on that block!) the restaurant had a great vibe. They started us off with a little skillet of buttery buckwheat spoonbread which was awesome. The talented bartender made my wife a custom cocktail based on her tastes and I had a "classic" sazerac, made with cognac, which was really interesting. We ordered boudin rouge and shrimp and grits for apps and both were outstanding. The boudin was a big change from Cochon. Intensely flavorful, soft in texture and just very cool. The shrimp and grits were also great, with big head-on shrimp and creamy grits.

For mains my wife ordered Trois Mignon and each little medium-rare steak (topped with debris, house-made worcestershire, and melted Stilton) was perfectly cooked, juicy, and sauced or seasoned beautifully. I had the confit pork steak and spare ribs, which was a heaping portion but was beautifully prepared and tender as hell. Plus the samosa-seasoned veggies were an unexpected treat along with it. Dante's Kitchen is DEFINITELY worth a visit.

Our last day (really a half day) was Sunday so we wanted brunch, but we decided to head back to Lil Dizzy's where we had brunch last time. We picked up some cafe au laits to go at CDM and strolled up Esplanade to the Treme Lil Dizzy's. Man, I love that place. The staff gives the impression that they genuinely love being there and it's great to be surrounded by people who are truly EATING!  The buffet is awesome, with fried chicken that's every bit as juicy and crispy as it looks. Other items like mac n cheese, catfish with something like crab topping, grits, and gumbo were all awesome. And the bread pudding was creamy, smooth and fab. A great final meal for the trip.

We strolled around for a while and eventually headed to Tujagues for sazeracs which, after having them all over town, were the absolute best. After the delightfully sweet ones at Galatoire's, the crisp one at the Sazerac Bar, the quirkiness of the rum version at the Green Goddess, and the antiquated sweetness of the cognac version at Dante's Kitchen, the Tujagues sazerac was just simple, perfectly balanced elegance. Standing at the bar, surrounded by the local characters and chatting with the ornery bartender, I had a perfect moment of New Orleans bliss. Plus the Saints were on and I think it was just as I was achieving the ideal state of sazerac-blessed happiness that a game-changing touchdown was scored. Even though our visit to our favorite city in the world was wrapping up I couldn't have been happier.
BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE! We also picked up a muffaletta at Frank's for the flight home. The bread was a little stale (although it was Sunday, so I guess that could be expected) but the olive salad and cold cuts were awesome. Definitely ideal snack food.

You didn't think I was done with you yet? We also brought back roast beef poboys from Verti Marte for lunch the next day. Obviously the bread lost its crispness (no fault of its own) but the roast beef was rich and juicy and was definitely a far cry better than what I would have gotten at my company cafeteria.

New Orleans, you are an extraordinary city. When will we be back? Hard to pinpoint exactly. But don't be surprised if the next time we come to town it's to stay.

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  1. I take it you had an awful lot of fun?!!

    Great review, I'm totally jealous of your afternoon at Commander's. My DH would have loved it.

    Next time you're in town, make sure you try Coquette. Talk about amazing.

    1 Reply
    1. re: FoodChic

      Yeah, we tend to attract fun times in that way. We never need to go out to eat with friends - we often end up making them while we're there! Commander's is probably one of my favorite places on Earth. Preservation Hall is another one. We had a lovely evening there after Cochon, which I forgot to mention.

    2. The oysters at Drago's in Metairie were unbelievably small when we were there the week before Christmas. But the bits of shell are pretty normal. At least it's been that way on all the ones I've had. When the oysters are plump, it is one amazing dish.

      2 Replies
      1. re: texasredtop

        Well, like I said, I'm down for trying it again. The size of the oysters didn't surprise me: With the volumes they're dealing with there's no time to source the best-of-the-best. That volume probably explains the sloppy cleaning too. It's ok, I didn't have a bad experience with that dish and will happily go to their other location when I have the chance.

        I should have mentioned this in the actual report but my wife, who is a culinary genius (she wouldn't agree, but that's what I think) doesn't like oysters in general. But she loved the oyster dishes at Commander's, Drago's, and the Green Goddess and really liked the oyster component at Galatoire's although was a little buttered-out at that point for the complete dish. Shame Casamento's didn't work out but we'll get there yet.

        1. re: kukubura

          I had the same oyster dish at Galatoire's on my summer trip and was overwhelmed by the butter too and it was the first thing I'd eaten all day. I won't order it again. There are too many other things that I love there to go back to that. I wasn't even impressed with the way they fried their oysters. I did love their oysters rockefeller though. Casamento's didn't work out for us this year either. I am adding Green Goddess to my list though. You should try Cafe Atchafalaya, that was one of our new tries this trip and we loved it.

      2. Thank you for the fabulous review. It was almost as good as being there (and makes me really want to be there). I'm so glad you liked Green Goddess. I am a huge fan, and adore Chef Chris. He's so passionate about the food. It's a gem. Agree about needed to try Coquette. I really love it, too. Now I have a few more places to try!

        6 Replies
        1. re: txgrl99

          Coquette was on the list for a possible dinner but just didn't quite make the cut. The one that was on the list for a long time and then lost out was Bon Ton, which I'm sad about. I wish we'd switched things around and gone there instead of Cochon.

          Chef Chris is definitely a special guy. He is more than capable of waxing poetic on his food and the drinks. Definitely a great addition to the dining landscape. Almost made me feel bad for the Pelican Club (which we also love!)

          1. re: kukubura

            Great review! I think Cochon is ok, but nothing special. Every dish we try at Green Goddess becomes our new favorite. It's nice to go when they are not busy so the chefs have time to chat. Chris is like a human google search when it comes to food.

            1. re: mrsfury

              That's the funny thing. They were pretty full up (as was Commander's) and yet both chefs made lots of time to come out and chat. Considering that the scale of their operations couldn't be further on the extremes it was interesting to see them both spending time making sure that their customers were enjoying themselves. That really says something about both of them!

            2. re: kukubura

              I wasn't impressed with Bon Ton or Cochon either one. I will try Bon Ton one more time because my husband loved the crawfish jambalaya but didn't feel the need to return to Cochon. Cafe Atchafalaya was the one that impressed us on our recent trip.

              1. re: texasredtop

                We adore Cafe Atchafalaya! What a cozy place. They have great food and service. I love the Bloody Mary bar with brunch. My DH cannot wait to go back.

                I share your feelings on Cochon...totally underwhelmed.

                1. re: FoodChic

                  Atchafalaya is definitely intriguing. It's changed hands completely since the last time we were there and wasn't even really on our radar. But it looks worth a visit next time. Drat.. When will that be??

          2. Since it's after 5 and not too early to look at pictures of cocktails, here's a link to the cocktail round-up. Food posts to come.

            1 Reply
            1. re: kukubura

              Great photos. you and your wife, eat and drink like me and my spouse.

            2. if you love the oyster dome, you also need to hit the oysters absinthe at adolfo's.

              5 Replies
              1. re: edible complex

                Is there any chance that they were serving that at the Creole Seafood Fest in the Old US Mint grounds in 2008? Cuz we had that and loved it. I don't remember the name of the booth anymore but that could have been it.

                edit: actually that was shrimp, but it still could have been the same place.

                1. re: kukubura

                  John Besh has an oysters absinthe recipe, so maybe he was out there. the dish at Adolfo's may actually be called Oysters Pernod, same horse different jockey.

                  1. re: kukubura

                    That was from Surrey's (the only time I've ever seen them have a booth at a festival), and it was amazingly good. I think the Surrey's chef then may be the same guy who now does lunch at Green Goddess.

                      1. re: CampStreet

                        Really? Surrey's the juice bar? How odd! I'd love to have that again. No surprise that he's at GG now.

                  2. I would say pretty spot on on Cochon...whilst it remains one of my favorite places for comfort Cajun food, they are so popular now that it feels like you are being herded in and out.

                    Kudos and brownie points for Lil Dizzy's and Dante's Kitchen. Would love to recommend some other places next time you're in town.

                    Happy to hear you ate well and had fun...

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: nolawinelover

                      Well, next time we're heading down you can be sure I'll post about it!

                    2. Kukubura-I love your food narrative. I had a solo lunch at Commander's this summer and really enjoyed it. To me, it was the experience of a lifetime. Have you ever had the BBQ shrimp at Liuzza's by the track? The last time I was in NOLA we specifically drove out to Metairie to the Drago's there for the charbroiled oysters. I really enjoyed them-they were plump. You and I share a similar yearning for this city, as the next time I make it there, it may also be permanent. I also enjoyed Lil Dizzy's. You and your wife should check out Cafe Reconcile the next time you are in town. I guarantee you will like the food and the mission. They are only open for lunch.

                      6 Replies
                      1. re: teachergirl23

                        Missed some of these replies somehow. Haven't been to LBTT yet but we always talk about it. We'll make it there sometime. And Cafe Reconcile is another place we should try. I mean, there are just too many options!

                        1. re: kukubura

                          I really liked your long report on NOLA. Your comments on Krakow were right on last spring. Now I am following your wife's blog. Can hardly wait to get back to Vienna and try some of those restaurants.
                          My husband and I are going to NOLA in mid March for 4 nights and I have made reservations for Friday lunch at CP. We hope to get to Mr. B's for lunch on Thurs (love those cocktail prices)- our plane gets in a little after 12 noon so I was thinking of getting a reservation for 1:30 or we can eat in the bar if our plane is late. Do you know how long the cab ride is to the FQ from the airport? We want to eat at GG one night and Dante's kitchen another night. Atchafalaya looks good so we may try that. Plus it would help the old budget with our other splurges. Looked at your comments on Galatoire- are we better off just stopping in for appetizers or should we try the Galatoire classics and eat lunch or dinner there? I am torn. We haven't been to NOLA for 20 years so everything is new for us.
                          A friend brought me a Susan Spicer cookbook awhile ago and I was thinking of making a reservation at Bayona but the reviews on Trip Advisor (I know it isn't great like chowhound) but the reviews are very mixed - either love it or hate it. Any suggestions chowhounds about Bayona? Is it worth the price and the time?
                          Also any suggestions on special lunch, dinner or cocktail deals like Mr. B's cocktails during the week?

                          1. re: suzieq4

                            cab ride to the FQ will probably be a half hour, give or take depending on traffic. If there's no traffic at all you can get to town in 15-20 minutes. I think Bayona is a really good FQ restaurant. We went there for my birthday a couple years ago and the quail salad and sweetbreads were amazing, I like that they have a menu of the tried and true standbys AND a menu of the more modern specials.

                            I would suggest going to Galatoires for an actual meal (lunch or dinner) I don't think you get the full flavor of the experience otherwise.

                            Domenica has happy hour from 3-6 (I think just during the week, but double check on that) where pizzas, house wines by the glass, and the house cocktails are half price. Luke has an oyster happy hour. Coquette has $5 glasses of wine on Wednesday and $5 cocktails on Thursday.

                            Three course prix fixe lunches ($20) that I like are: MiLa and August. Emeril does one too. Commander's Palace is a good deal for lunch and has the 25 cent martinis.

                            1. re: noradeirdre

                              Part of the reason we only "dipped our toes" back into Galatoire's was because of just how off the rails our first visit there went. Also, we were just short on time and were trying to squeeze as much in as possible. I'm looking forward to a long, leisurely multi-plate, multi-hour experience there sometime.

                              As for Mr B's I haven't ever experienced the need to have a reservation there, but I might have just been lucky every time. This time they did try to put us in a table all the way in the dark back area but we asked to move up front where the lively tables were and we were glad we did. I don't know why they thought to put us back there even though there were a few tables up front, I don't want to think that it was because they thought we were tourists (we were, of course, but we were dressed better than many of the other diners.) Either way, once we were settled we had a lovely time.

                              1. re: kukubura

                                Thanks for all the good ideas. I want to eat at Galatoire (maybe lunch) since alot of the restaurants only do dinner. I will look up Mila and August and Emeril. And Upperline sounds great too!! Too little time - too many choices.

                                1. re: suzieq4

                                  I had a really lovely dinner at MiLa in October. It doesn't get the attention of some of the other restaurants (I think maybe because of the hotel-esque interior design), but they serve excellent food and are worth checking out.

                      2. Is it best to make reservations?.. We we coming from overseas for only 4 days and would hate to miss out on the long list of places I plan on indulging at in NOLA!

                        5 Replies
                        1. re: Aussietraveller

                          Definitely depends on the place. Where are you thinking of going?

                          1. re: kukubura

                            The main ones I'm looking at are galatoires, commanders palace, mr b's, bon ton, clover grill, dick and Jenny's and cafe du monde... I think that's all the eating we can do in four days...

                            1. re: Aussietraveller

                              You should definitely make a res at Commander's. Galatoire's depends on whether you want to guarantee yourself a reservation time (in which you have to sit upstairs) or whether you want to enjoy the "scene" of the downtown dining room (search the board for the many many discussions of this if you aren't already familiar with it) in which case you have to just show up and hope for the best as they don't take resies for downstairs. Mr. B's could go either way, depends if you're going during a prime time. The others should be OK. Cafe du Monde is basically a glorified coffee stand and does not take reservations (I usually get an order of beignets to go and then go sit by the river to enjoy them).

                              When in doubt, why not get a reservation if you know when you might want to go. That way you have it in your back pocket in case you need it.

                              1. re: ml77

                                Agreed on all counts. For Galatoire's as I say in the OP, we went at an off time, got a table right away, and were able to see the room go through a number of different states. Also, when we went for our notorious Friday dinner back in 2008 we had no idea about any of it and just strolled in at dinner time and got a 2 top right away, so there's no guessing what will happen there.

                              2. re: Aussietraveller

                                Make reservations wherever they will accept them. If you don't you may be going home having missed many good meals. And make them early.

                          2. For those who want to see some photos, here are the blog recaps:
                            Cocktails: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2012/01...
                            Classic restaurants: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2012/01...
                            New Orleans new guard: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2012/02...
                            A little lagniappe: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2012/02...

                            6 Replies
                            1. re: kukubura

                              Very nice kukubura! Love the pics, the reviews, everything. You can really tell how much fun y'all were having.

                              1. re: mrsfury

                                Thanks. Man, do we love it there...

                              2. re: kukubura

                                I almost hate to give this away, but Paul at Tujague's is only ornery in a good way. He comes across that way to some people, but if you pay attention, he has that telling twinkle in his eye. Not only that, in this day when almost everyone who serves drinks insists they are "mixologists," Paul is more than happy to tell you he is a "bartender." And then goes on to make the most perfectly balanced cocktail you will ever drink.

                                1. re: rouxdauphine

                                  I only ever use the word ornery as a compliment! ;) We had a great time chatting with him and would go back again happily.

                                  1. re: rouxdauphine

                                    Paul is great! I peek in when I go past, and will NOT stop unless he is behind the bar.

                                    1. re: betheroo

                                      Plus his sazerac really was my favorite. It was simple and perfectly executed. I'll definitely go back.