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Burger and Chips @ Goodman, Mayfair, London

limster Dec 26, 2011 03:30 PM

A very solid burger, cooked more or less to the specified medium, with a slight pink hue in the middle of the fairly thick and evenly juicy patty. Enjoyed the sturdy beefy flavour, with a moderate amount of drippy grease, much of which was soaked up by the bun. Good bun with medium-light brioche-like texture, but without the inappropriate sweetness that some buns have. Standard support from lettuce, pickle and tomato, the last a fairly big but not an exceptionally fruity example. But that gives room for the sweetness and acidity of ketchup to do its work. Grilled onions were very minor presence. Definitely one of the better burgers I've had in London, certainly superior to the oversalted and overpriced ones at the Hawksmoor.

The chips are outstanding, as good as, if not better than the triple cooked chips at the Bull and Last. Hot, super crispy on the surface, smooth and light on the inside. I got the truffle ones and they gave off a pleasant earthy muskiness.

The oak, tannin, acid and moderate fruit of a malbec by the glass integrated fairly well with the food.

A good scoop of dense creamy ice cream (but only a scoop), went together with fairly ok brownies (wished they were more fudgy and warmed) and excellent whipped cream (lots of it).

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  1. howler RE: limster Dec 27, 2011 10:13 AM

    good stuff! it's all about getting the right amount of fattiness in the meat - do you know if its o'sheas that supplies them?

    3 Replies
    1. re: howler
      limster RE: howler Dec 27, 2011 10:25 AM

      They get their beef from more than one source. I think some of their steaks are from O'Sheas, but they also sell USDA beef which I assume is not from O'Sheas. Don't know which beef they use for the burgers. Am tempted to go back for a a steak.

      1. re: howler
        PhilD RE: howler Dec 30, 2011 02:56 AM

        Agree anout the "right" amount of fat, my recent comment on the Meat Liquer thread questioning whether "greasey" really is good or simply a bit of marketing hype. The balance is key.

        1. re: PhilD
          cathodetube RE: PhilD Dec 30, 2011 07:37 AM

          I was wondering what this craze for using the term meat sweats is? Can't say it is something I would aspire but it seems desirable for those in the Twitterati and Blogerati realms.

      2. zuriga1 RE: limster Dec 27, 2011 11:48 AM

        Goodman's is at the top of the Young and Foodish list. I am definitely going there next chance I get. Another good description of it here:


        6 Replies
        1. re: zuriga1
          limster RE: zuriga1 Dec 27, 2011 12:14 PM

          I'll need to go back and try the burger at the Bountiful Cow, which I quite liked (even though their chips were not up to Goodman's standards). The other burger that is on my list is the Bar Boulud Truffle burger, apparently on weekends only. But I can never understand why the Hawksmoor burger is so popular - had 3 of them in 2 locations (Spitalfields and Covent Gardens) and in all cases they were so oversalted that it was literally painful to eat.

          1. re: limster
            howler RE: limster Dec 27, 2011 02:46 PM

            and i am equally mystified why the ginger pigs beef gets such hype ....

            1. re: limster
              zuriga1 RE: limster Dec 27, 2011 10:19 PM

              I have a feeling that we'll hear less about the Hawksmoor burger now that it's got some growing stiff competition. Someone should smack the hand of those people dumping in the salt on those burgers!

              1. re: zuriga1
                limster RE: zuriga1 Dec 28, 2011 05:57 AM

                It's probably not so much salt as the rather salty olgeshield cheese which they use. Alas!

                1. re: limster
                  zuriga1 RE: limster Dec 28, 2011 07:35 AM

                  >salty olgeshield cheese <

                  Even the name strikes horror in my heart!

                  1. re: zuriga1
                    limster RE: zuriga1 Dec 28, 2011 10:24 AM

                    Woops typo - ogleshield is the correct name. It's actually a good cheese, just rather salty; with the right accompaniments can be very enjoyable.

          2. d
            DavidT RE: limster Dec 27, 2011 03:35 PM


            4 Replies
            1. re: DavidT
              zuriga1 RE: DavidT Dec 27, 2011 10:22 PM

              I found it so funny how Goodman's page about its meat said they have a close relationship with the state of Nebraska. I wonder how one does that. :-)

              1. re: zuriga1
                cathodetube RE: zuriga1 Dec 28, 2011 10:19 AM

                A close relationship with feed lots?

                1. re: cathodetube
                  zuriga1 RE: cathodetube Dec 28, 2011 02:01 PM

                  I suppose they mean a close relationship with the meat suppliers of Nebraska. Amazing how food can travel around the globe so quickly but it takes weeks to get mail to someone in the States from here.

                  1. re: zuriga1
                    cathodetube RE: zuriga1 Dec 29, 2011 03:53 AM

                    I would want to know if the beef comes from feed lots. That would be extremely important to me. I would want to know why they would be importing beef from Nebraska feed lots when you can get amazing beef here that is grass fed.

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