Burger and Chips @ Goodman, Mayfair, London
- limster Dec 26, 2011 03:30 PM
A very solid burger, cooked more or less to the specified medium, with a slight pink hue in the middle of the fairly thick and evenly juicy patty. Enjoyed the sturdy beefy flavour, with a moderate amount of drippy grease, much of which was soaked up by the bun. Good bun with medium-light brioche-like texture, but without the inappropriate sweetness that some buns have. Standard support from lettuce, pickle and tomato, the last a fairly big but not an exceptionally fruity example. But that gives room for the sweetness and acidity of ketchup to do its work. Grilled onions were very minor presence. Definitely one of the better burgers I've had in London, certainly superior to the oversalted and overpriced ones at the Hawksmoor.
The chips are outstanding, as good as, if not better than the triple cooked chips at the Bull and Last. Hot, super crispy on the surface, smooth and light on the inside. I got the truffle ones and they gave off a pleasant earthy muskiness.
The oak, tannin, acid and moderate fruit of a malbec by the glass integrated fairly well with the food.
A good scoop of dense creamy ice cream (but only a scoop), went together with fairly ok brownies (wished they were more fudgy and warmed) and excellent whipped cream (lots of it).
I'll need to go back and try the burger at the Bountiful Cow, which I quite liked (even though their chips were not up to Goodman's standards). The other burger that is on my list is the Bar Boulud Truffle burger, apparently on weekends only. But I can never understand why the Hawksmoor burger is so popular - had 3 of them in 2 locations (Spitalfields and Covent Gardens) and in all cases they were so oversalted that it was literally painful to eat.