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Dec 26, 2011 07:04 AM

my new butcher block cutting board

I am now the proud owner of a Boardsmith, end grain cutting block. With ya'll's help, I decided on the 16 X 22 and it is a great size. I also received it in about 2 weeks, but since it was my Christmas present, I didn't get to see it until Christmas. I ordered it with the end grooves and without the feet. Dave was great to work with and his work is just beautiful. I would encourage anyone wanting and end grain cutting board to save your pennies and buy one of his. It is so worth it.
I appreciate all the advice on the cutting boards, and the reviews on Dave the Boardsmith boards. He has great reviews on a lot of forums.
He also sent info on how to care for the board, clean and how to keep it conditioned.

I love it.
THANKS DAVE! (can't wait to start chopping something)

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  1. Congrats dixiegal!! Nice score.. enjoy!

    Here's my boardSmith "Carolina Slab" :-D

    7 Replies
    1. re: petek

      Yep, that looks just like mine! Hmmmm, wonder if boardsmith will ever make wooden bowls? What a fine job I bet he could do with a wooden bowl...................................;o)

        1. re: scubadoo97

          "Nice board!

          Really nice knife!"
          Thanks scubadoo97! I'm lovin' this knife to death..(and the board too) :-D

          1. re: petek

            How could I miss that. It is your Konosuke HD with the octagonal handle, right? Please do write a short review when you have a chance. (ok, I supposed you did..., but just update us on any new findings)

            1. re: Chemicalkinetics

              "Please do write a short review when you have a chance"

              Don't worry Chem,I'll keep you updated..

            2. re: petek

              what kind of knife is that big one? And what is it used for? (It almost looks like a tactical type knife).

              1. re: dixiegal

                "what kind of knife is that big one?"
                Which one?

        2. I got one too! :-) Mine's a little smaller, 12x18. It's now the biggest board I have, & I don't have the counter space for anyting bigger.

          Put some white mineral oil on it as soon as you can. I did that yesterday & it immediately soaked up two good coats on the underside & one light coat one the top & sides. I'm going to put some more on today, before I start using it.

          Congratulations on yours! :-)

          13 Replies
          1. re: Eiron

            Yea, I don't have much counter space either, so mine is on my kitchen table. I do a lot of food prep there anyway and since my children have moved out, we seldom eat on the table anyway.

            I have just washed, rinsed the board off and am waiting for it to dry, then I do plan on putting some cutting board oil/conditioner on it. The bottle doesn't say the exact ingredient. I would say it is mineral oil by the way it soaks in that board and has no odor to it at all. I think the bottle doesn't say the exact ingredient, because if we knew it was only mineral oil, we would just go buy mineral oil instead of their product. LOL

            I am thinking of ordering some of the board conditioner that has some was in it, but was thinking that once the wax/oil was applied that the wax wood prevent more oil in the future from soaking in the board.

            Anyway, the board is pretty well conditioned. The water that I put on the board to rinse it off, just puddled up and ran right off the board. I didn't use any soap to speak off, except for what may have been in my dishrag from where I was just washing dishes. (I don't have a dishewasher)

            Congratulations on your board too!

            Now I just need to find on of those thingy's that I see on Food Network that they use to pick up their chopped food with. It looks like a flat rectangular blade that they scoop up the chopped veggies with.

            1. re: dixiegal

              You mean like these?

              I usually just flip the blade of my knife over (so that the spine is against the board) & use that as a scoop. It works better with taller knives, like traditional Euro chef's knives, than it does with Asian gyutos. Santokus work well like this, since they generally tend to be rectangular in shape.

              1. re: dixiegal

                Most of the board conditioners you buy in stores are made of mostly mineral oil with some other minor additives like lemon oil and walnut oil. As for beeswax, I like it a lot, but that is entirely your call.

                Like Eiron said, what you described sound like a Food Scraper or Pastry Scraper. For examples:



                I also usually use my knives for food transfer.

                1. re: Chemicalkinetics

                  Yea, that is it. The pastry scraper. Thanks! (I never saw that food scoop thing before.)

                2. re: dixiegal

                  That's right....just go to any pharmacy and buy(cheap-I paid $1.99 for 12 ozs)clear
                  mineral oil. Have been using this for years on my 2 cutting boards.Good luck!

                  1. re: grangie angie

                    I went to my local Rite Aid and baught the mineral oil. Did not get as good a deal as grangie. ( I paid over 7.00 for 32 oz bottle) I am now applying it the oil and letting it dry. It is different from the cutting board mystery oil that I baught at the store. The mineral oil is much thicker. My cutting board oil is very thin. Sorta like 3 in 1 oil consistancy. I think the mineral oil will do better. The board oil I have fades away pretty fast. And the mineral oil is cheaper to buy.
                    I still have not decided if I want to try a beeswax oil mixture on the board or not. I might first try it on one of my other boards.
                    If I wanted to make my own mineral oil beeswax board oil mixture, what is the ratio of oil to beeswax? And where do you get beeswax. I have some that I baught several years ago from an herbal supply place. I can't remember where.

                    1. re: dixiegal

                      The easy part, you can get beeswax from stores like HobbyLobby or other "craft" stores or a bunch of places on line.

                      The more difficult part, the exact ratio depends on your preference for applying the mixture to your board. What I do is disolve about 1 part beeswax in 2 parts mineral oil. I do this by heating in a microwave in a glass container. When this cools it makes a paste, similar to the white paste we used in grade school, softer than shoe polish but still a semi solid. If you don't like the consistancy of this ratio, then add beeswax to make it thicker or mineral oil to make it softer. But this isn't a bad starting point. You can either heat it and apply it as a liquid, although it sets up rather quickly, our as I do, just dip your fingers in it and use the heat from your hands to melt the mixture into the board as you rub it. Let it soak in and dry and then buff off the excess with a soft cloth. Water will bead up on it like a freshly waxed car hood when you're finished.

                      1. re: dixiegal

                        I like the Tree Spirit All Natural Wood and Bamboo oil from Lamson and Goodnow which I find at Crate and Barrel in SoCal for about $10.


                        Works wonders on dried out knife handles. They have a beeswax/oil mix but I've never tried it.


                        1. re: dixiegal

                          "I still have not decided if I want to try a beeswax oil mixture on the board or not."

                          I use "Clapman's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish" on my board(and knife handles).Got it at Lee Valley up here in Canada.Good stuff and smells nice too..

                          1. re: petek

                            I have a board conditioner I got from Japanese Knife Sharpening which is a mix of bees wax and mineral oil. Easy to apply and works great. I had been using just mineral oil prior.

                          2. re: dixiegal

                            dixiegal, the care instructions that came with my board say:

                            "Simply shave about 1/2 teaspoon of beeswax in to a cup of mineral oil. Heat in a double boiler until the wax melts and the mixture looks like apple juice. Apply while still warm. Save or dispose of the remainder of the oil."

                            Be careful if using a microwave or a pot (not a double boiler) as the mixture can become very volatile via direct heating.

                            1. re: Eiron

                              "Simply shave about 1/2 teaspoon of beeswax in to a cup of mineral oil. Heat in a double boiler until the wax melts and the mixture looks like apple juice. Apply while still warm. Save or dispose of the remainder of the oil."

                              Well duh. That is in my paperwork from BoardSmith too. Don't know how I missed it.

                              I have both a Michaels and a Hobby Lobby not too far from me. I will check them out for the beeswax. I have a little beeswax left over from where I was making my own lip balm. I have had it a long time, but I guess it is still good. I will check it out.

                              I will definately melt in a double boiler.

                            2. re: dixiegal

                              Like mike said, you can get beeswax in many craft stores. Make sure you get the pure beeswax, not the ones with perfume and other stuffs. I got my Yaley beeswax from Michael's , but I don't see it anymore. Instead, here are some possible locations:



                              The ratio is completely personally. If you want it to resembles more like mineral oil, then you can add as little as Eiron said, 1/2 teapsoon for 1 cup. If you want it to be more solid, then you can go up to a 1-to-1 ratio.

                              The neat thing is that you can always change the ratio. So I would start off something like 1/2 cup beeswax and 1 cup mineral oil, heat them up and mix them, see if you like the texture, and add more mineral oil or more beeswax to your likening.

                              Alternatively, you can get one of those premade mixture like "Clapman's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish" suggested by Petek or "BeesKeeper's Gold"


                      2. Congratulation. Like Eiron said, it is a good idea to "prep" the cutting board before using it, especially you pay quiet a bit for it.

                        1. We have an 18" X 25" wooden cutting board that always sits on the end of our L-shaped counter. I am dismayed by the deep gouges I put in one side with a cleaver while hacking up a turkey carcass. I should have put one of our old nylon boards on top of the big board. I was just looking at those gouges just now and remembered something from a Top Chef episode that still bugs me. It was in season 5 when they have to clean/filet and eel. They took a hammer and nail and nailed the eel's head to one end of the wooden cutting board. That nail hole in the cutting board bugs me and I only saw it on TV.

                          4 Replies
                          1. re: John E.

                            Mine doesn't have deep cuts but deep enough. I sand mine periodicaly

                            1. re: scubadoo97

                              I thought about sanding mine. I have a burn mark from a too-hot kettle, but it has faded with use. Fortunately, the gouges are on the same side as the burn marks. They are deep enough that sanding wouldn't help much. If I had spent a bunch of money like the OP did on a Boardsmith I would be more annoyed. I did just look at their boards on their website and I sure would like one. The board I gouged was left in a house I bought years ago.

                              edit: I just stuck my thumbnail into the two gouges. I estimate them to be about 1/32nd of an inch which doesn't sound like much unless you're sanding a board.

                              1. re: John E.

                                Is your board edge grain or end grain? It is't edge grain you might be able to find a cabinet shop with a 20" plainer that could surface plane your cutting board. It would take them about two passes, less than a minute to run the board through a plainer. If it's end grain, no one is going to run it through an industrial plainer, but cutting marks, even from a cleaver shoud diminish with time.

                                1. re: mikie

                                  It's edge grain and actually, I have access to a planer. I might do it at some point, right now I am not concerned about it enough.