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Dec 20, 2011 04:42 PM

My 18 year old Chowpuppy wants to eat Paris again!

I took my son to Paris when he was 12 and he loved it. He had chicken at Chez L'Ami Louis the lunch degustation at Lucas Carton, the plateau at Bofinger and frankly I have allowed his food preoccupation to drive me into penury.

Now he is 18 and has requested another trip. He would like to visit a good representation of Bakeries, Patisseries, and of course, restaurants. We will be in Paris January 4th to 11th.

We will not concentrate on starred restaurants but would certainly consider one or two good lunch menus. Le Cinq seems to be a good deal.

He loves great roast chicken and steak as most teenagers do but he has adventurous tastes too.

Since we are in France we will likely avoid Asian food for example in favour of french regional cuisine. Are L'Ambassade d'Auvergne and Le Trou Gascon still putting out good food for example?

The provisional restaurant list includes Le Severo, Yves Camdeborde, Chez Denise, Benoit, Chez Paul, L'Ami Jean, Au Bon Accueil, Aux Lyonais.

Patissieries include Pierre Herme, Gerard Mulot, La Duree, Hugo et Victor and Jacques Genin.

Cheese shops: Laurent Dubois, Quatrehomme, Barthelemy and Canton.

Your thoughts and recs would be greatly appreciated. We may never be able to do this trip again and so I am trying to put together an enjoyable , memorable and educational visit.

Thank you for your help.

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  1. l love your handle. If you have read other threads on this board you will know l still feel L'Ami Louis is the best cotes de boeuf in town, their chicken less so. Le Boeuf Couronne is quite good as well. Le Severo is a thinner cut for steak frites, good but for me not same thing by a longshot.
    Lucas is not what it was, not as perfect again by a longshot. l do love Le Cinq, not all food is perfect, a lot is, but the service, surroundings and experience make it a must. Have not been to L d'A and ATG for many years, little too dense food for me.
    Your list of restaurants looks like mine would be, deleting Benoit, found precious and quite expensive, and adding Chez Casimir and Le Grand Pan.
    Like your bakeries, would add a few boulangeries as Landemaine, Du Pain et des Idees, and Mayer for bread and Julien on St Honore and A Duc de la Chapelle near the bamboo garden near the top of the 12 line on Rue Tristan Tzara for baguettes.
    For cheese my favs are Dubois, Chez Virginie ( near Lamarck-Caualincourt ), and Foucher on Rue Mouffetard but none of yours are bad.
    If you want company for Chez Denise, contact me, l will always go there.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Delucacheesemonger

      Thanks DCM.
      Is there another go to chicken restaurant? L'Amis Louis used to be the place.

      I have taken Benoit of the list, it had been suggested by a terminally romantic old friend.

      I have added exclamation marks after Chez Denise, are you in town in January?

      Thanks so much for your suggestions.

      1. re: sumdumgoy

        Our senior poster on this board, souphie, loves Rotisserie de Beaujolais, the second restaurant of Tour d'Argent. Call when you are coming and the chicken will be ready. l will be available through 1/7. Chez Denise is closed on weekends. Contact me at address on my info page.

        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

          Thanks for the reminder re: R de B.

          Went there about 25 years ago, not long after it opened I think, and had a vertically roasted pintade I think and braised petit pois with a bit of smoked ham.

          I am madly going through the Chow posts and souphie is a national treasure. In fact this board has a terrific number of prolific, knowledgeable, generous posters.

          Thank you all very much!

    2. i'd consider Monsieur Lapin, especially if he is interested in rabbit (their non-rabbit dishes are fine too)...i had a lovely solo lunch there last year...

      6 Replies
      1. re: Simon

        M. Lapin is a great suggestion as rabbit is so little seen on the menu in North America.

        Thanks Simon

        1. re: Simon

          I seem to recall that Monsieur Lapin is closed.

          1. re: Laidback

            Really?...the website seems to be up and running, and doesn't say anything about any closure...can you confirm?

            1. re: Simon

              I think it was in Zagat, but I won't be in Paris until April. Probably some Parisian Chowhound will check it out.

              1. re: Laidback

                hmm...i'm in NYC now and won't be in Paris for a while...otherwise i'd just call them and see...

                1. re: Simon

                  An internet search sadly shows that it is indeed closed...w/ the chef Franck Enee supposedly opening a new restaurant in the future...

                  here's a little film/chef-interview (w/ melodramatic music) that i found on youtube/google, which i guess now can serve as a euology for the place:


        2. My wife and I and another couple went to Paris the last two years. We went to Au Bon Accueil both times. The first time was wonderful and the second far from it. Service (both food and wine) were marginal at best and the food was good as in not even very good. L'Ami Jean was outstanding and we will go again on our next visit. Pierre Herme were wonderful.

          If you find yourself in the 6th Grom ice cream was great.

          2 Replies
          1. re: HoosierFoodie

            Sadly, Au Bon Accueil changed hands and is no longer recommended. It used to be quite a little jewel, but no more.

            1. re: HoosierFoodie

              Good ideas HF, thanks.

              I have heard that Au Bon Accueil was less than stellar recently.

              Tant pis, poubelle!

            2. Well, since my first suggestion turned out to be closed (see above), i'm wondering whether your son enjoys wine (or would like to begin enjoying wine)...if so, you may want to include some of the Paris wine bars which also serve delicious food: three that come to mind are La Patache, Coinstot Vino, and La Cremerie, but there are scores of others that people here can recommend.

              7 Replies
              1. re: Simon

                Yes Simon, I may be accused of being a bad parent but I have allowed him to have wine with dinner ( or lunch in Paris) since he was quite young. He will have wine if his parents do and will be asked to comment on it.

                Please do not call the authorities but he has tasted better wine than most people ever will, though in small quantities. (I was in the wine business for many years)

                We are concentrating on food in the full expectation that excellent wine will also be available.
                I have heard of La Patache but not the other two. You are another of the great Paris posters and I am most grateful.

                1. re: sumdumgoy

                  you are very kind...others on this board have vastly more Paris knowledge than i do...i was lucky enough to live there for about 5 months in 2010 and found a few favorite places, mostly wine bars, regional bistros, and some Senegalese, Laotian, and, N. African places...

                  La Cremerie is in the 6th, on a very cute street near is a review w/ some nice pictures that i found online...i went there a couple times, and i recently rec'd it to some friends who were in Paris on an engagement trip and they loved it:


                  Coinstot Vino is in the Passage des Panoramas, which is a visually interesting covered walkway in the has some cooked entrees and plats (unlike La Cremerie), as well as oysters...


                  And, while we're on the subject of oysters, probably my favorite restaurant in Paris is Huitrerie Regis...but only go there if you're sure everyone likes oysters, because that's more or less all they serve...


                  And, if you have enough time/meals, i'd also consider a N. African place...i'm partial to Le Souk, but 404 or many of others rec'd here might make for a memorable addition to the trip's itinerary.

                  1. re: Simon

                    Went to Pleine Mer in the 11th for oysters again yesterday. Still totally wonderful, 12 #1's for under 20 euros with b/b. Do try when you come.

                    1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                      Will try, another great idea.
                      Huiterie R. is very expensive.

                      DCM, Re: Chez Denise,check your spam filter for a communication!

                      1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                        Pleine Mer sounds great...i will definitely try it the next time i'm in Paris (and from looking where it is on the map, it seems like it might be a great first stop of the evening, before heading east to Canal St. Martin wine bars for charcuterie and vin rouge...

                        1. re: Simon

                          Relatively nearby is a well respected wine bar called 'Jacques Melac' Not open on weekends but lunch/dinner other days. On Rue de Leon Frot which parallels Bd Voltaire right near Charonne metro stop.

                          1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                            Cool...will add it to the list for my next trip :)

                2. Now that my son can easily afford the Michelin scene, he still returns to the old classics (older than his Dad), like Brasserie Balzar (Poulet Roti & steak tartare) and Le Rubis. Quality food is important, but so is a professional and friendly wait staff. If you want a connection with the Paris of our history, and the time of Midnight in Paris, please look beyond the bistros emphasized here.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: Oakglen

                    Good advice, thanks Oak.

                    Very much appreciate all the good ideas, generous opinions and expertise on this and many other CH Paris threads.

                    This is a rare opportunity and we intend to make the most of it in the little time allowed.

                    If my kid remembers 5 great meals, 5 great museums, 5 great wines and 5 great cheeses, pastries or breads for the rest of his life, then I have done my job. If I can do it again in 5 years I will have been very lucky.

                    Thank you all again very much,