High End Sushi in Tokyo (or should I stick with Sawada?)

[talker32]

I am going to Tokyo again in February and I would like to know if anyone has any strong opinions about high-end Sushi. Last time I was there I had the privilege of eating at Sawada which was amazing. The husband and wife team, the food, the ambiance - everything was top notch.

I am interested in other places that compare (or ideally people think are better and why)... Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

[BaronDestructo]

Oh and hey there fellow Vancouverite.

[Ninisix]

Sometimes you want to be surprised, you want to discover new taste, you want to have new food combinations... and sometimes you might crave to access some rare beauty pieces... Ephemera beauty pieces, for me, are to be found at sushi Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza. I can 't recommend enough this place. 
On looking back at your experiences, likes sushi Sawada, I would suggest you to try the new 3 star sushi Yoshitake in Ginza. Fair enough, the counter is small, and seating unfortunately tight. But the chef is very friendly, well connected to the other chefs, such as Ryugin's ... At Yoshitake, the sauce (Japanese sauce) are more complex that you would imagine. An I am not speaking only about the tsume. For ex., 'katuso' (=bonito) was smoked just at the last minute on 'wara' (=straw) with a home made ponsu sauce, reduction of 'kaori abura' (=oil marinated with ginger)... soo good. Amadai was served with a sauce made from bones of fishes, and reduction of irizake...
Ok, it is more than sushi... first impression is that was really an appropriate context between the culinary and sushi.,

[talker32]

Thanks for the advice so far. I have heard great things about Sukiyabashi Jiro as well as Kyuubei (which is enticing because I understand that you can order A-la-Carte...

So what would choose between Sawada and the two others mentioned above?

[Ninisix]

Sushi Kyubei in Ginza is a 5 floor sushi, big, business like. Other sushi-yasan refer it as ''ruled by the bank'.  Its style is too impersonal in my opinion. Well, for a lunch, it is ok, and it will be around 3000.-yens.
Sushi Sawada, if I understand, you've liked it. It is a good and different image of sushi, not westerners image have of it. Menu omakase won't change a lot, but if you like to have the same thing because you are lost in all the details, that will be enjoyable...
Sushi Sukiyabashi Jiroo Ginza, there is the 'in' if you can be humble and follow some of the rules (see below), and you will be 'out' if you can not enjoy it.. Only omakase, at 30,000.-yens (with tax31500), to be paid in cash, only nigiris, only one piece per piece tempo on time, only the watch... 
After that, don't compare the price at Sawada, and Sukiyabashi Jiro, they are just the same. The quantity/price might be perceivably more at Sawada, but Sukiyabashi Jiro is not a sushi like the others, the key there is pieces full of savour.. But granted, it seems more difficult for some to enjoy..

[Ninisix]

After that, if you want some more affordable high-end sushi, say 14,000.-yens, try the sushi Taichi in Ginza or sushi Kozasa in Shibuya(from Shibuya take a taxi with a good GPS, it will cost 1000.-yens)... Hope to hear from you soon, as to respond better...

[talker32]

Thanks Ninsix. I also like the thought of doing something in terms of lower price but still nice and intimate. Does Taichi have only Omakase or can I order A La Carte?

[Ninisix]

With the omakase at Sushi Taichi, the chef will at first serve you some fine sashimi, then, before proceeding, will ask what you dislike. So just tell him that you want more 'tsumami' than nigiri, for exemple to take your time tasting different 'chi-sake(=regional blend sake)' with some 'hirame(=flounder)', 'tako(=octopus)', 'tai no kimo sauce(=sea bream with the liver sauce)', 'komochi ika(=squid full of eggs)',...
One of my all time favourites is maguro. I just heard that Sushi Araki, whose course is for half  maguro, spend 22million yens on a year for just 'maguro(=tuna)' !!! Of course, such amounts have to be passed onto the customers ... So, Okonomi style(=a la carte), is for connoisseurs of the 'jika(price of seasonnals)' and regular of places. After, there some crazy places that do this, but I can not recommend. For example, avoid sushi Matoi (sushi of the stars), price can easily climb to 40,000~50,000.-yens...

[MattR]

Hi Ninisix,
would you say that Yoshitake is better than Sawada in terms of 'more than sushi' (smoking, marinades, sauces, etc.)? We'd really like to try that kind of sushi when we're in tokyo...

[Ninisix]

It is your first time sushi in Tokyo, right ? So, go to Sawada-san, he will want you to fully taste the ingredients. You can expect some big pieces of abalone, variety of uni,... your 2 and half hours with him will be easier, as he will act to show his work mostly in front of you. Yoshitake, in my opinion, do some more complex arrangements, in fact very subtle... half cooked, raw and half nigiri.... After that, dinner 'omakase' at Yoshitake is at 21,000.-yens, where Sawada is at 35,000.-yens (price went up). Quantity will be more generous at Sawada, but with the omakase at 21,000.- at Yoshitake you can make on another good story dinner at a high end Japanese ... your choice.

[MattR]

Hi thanks for the reply. No it's not the first time but the previous one I had sushi in cheap-ish places. I don't mind the 'more complex arrangements', but from the few pics I find on the web it looks like very little of it is sushi/sashimi and more courses are closer to a kaiseki meal. Is this correct? What ratio of bites would you say is classic sushi sashimi omakase vs more complex dishes at yoshitake? thanks again

[Ninisix]

Complex was, for exemple, his "saba sushi(=mackerel sushi)", usually saba sushi works with sweetened shari(=rice), so he had to adjust his shari(red vinegar &salt) with kampyo, midori aoba, myoga... and so tasty...After on last December, I have had for 'otsumami' :
Crab, with sea urchin, jelly of gaiko(=outer crab eggs stomach)
Chawanmushi of ikura(salmon roe)
Amadai with the irizake reduction, and fish bone extract sauce
Magurozuke (cube of tuna marinated with soy sauce)..
Katsuo smoke on wara(bonito smoke on straw) with a sauce made with ponsu, sake, mirin, aroma oil, ginger..
Ankimo(lever of monkerfish) boiled in 'akasake'(red and regional sake)
followed by 12 little piece of nigiri, plus the saba-sushi and one bite of omelet...
'katsuo', 'amadai sashimi', 'magurozuke' are classic in sushi-yasan, but in my opinion, the  model  is different between each sushi fan... so in this opposed bites between simple nigiri and complex i say the dominance is on sushi, as just expect, in spring, the chef to give you some irregular/unknown pieces..

[MattR]

thank you ninisix, very informative as usual. One last question. Is it customary to ask to 'expand' the menu at Yoshitake, i.e. pay more and also get more?

[Ninisix]

Nope, there is only one 'omakase', so you will have to ask for supplement pieces as i did(less than 1,500.-yens per piece), or ask for what you want in particular. For exemple, as maguro is always included in the course, and really high quality in Ginza sushi-yasan, it can be a '5 maguro nigiris (zuke, akami, chutoro, otoro,tekkamaki)?'...This kind of special order will be welcome.

[CWFOODIE]

Re supplement, did you ask for pieces that was already included in the omakase orr, did you specifically ask for special items that are not included in the omakase?
I would love to try your 5 maguro nigiris special order, but how could a non-Japanese speaking diner be able to make such special order?
Thx. I will be trying Yoshitake next week, having failed to secure booking at Sawada and Mizutani.

[Ninisix]

a little precision for your omakase special maguro course (if you are after that): at the beginning of the omakase, just ask to taste it also as nigiri some 'zuke', then add a 'tekkamaki'.. Speak frankly to the chef Yoshitake-San, he understands English..

[Ninisix]

In fact, to simplify, just say that you want five different tastes of 'maguro(tuna)' instead of three, including 'zuke' 'akami'  'chuutoro' 'ootoro' 'tekkamaki'.. Translated in Japanese, it will be 'mitsu no maguro no nigiri o itsutsu ni shite kudasai : zuke..' 

[CWFOODIE]

Has anyone been to Sushi Umi. Is it difficult to book? I heard it boasts some of the best and imaginative ingredients.

[FourSeasons]

Re Sushi Umi: Difficult to book. And they insist at least one person in the booking party has to speak fluent Japanese.

[Ninisix]

Yet! I didn't have the chance to try it, though his omakase is very reasonable under 20,000.-yens (with tsumami). This sushi-yasan seems to have also a strong flavour shari (rice base), as the use of red vinegar.. And, usually it is two weeks queue, the chef on the phone is a bit difficult to understand in his way of expressing energy !! So it might be difficult to book it by yourself. 

[talker32]

Ninisix I need your help. You were very helpful the last time I went to Japan regarding your advice on a sushi restaurant and I would love your help again.

Here is the situation.. I am going to Japan March 20-22nd with my 9 year old son and I need a great place to go for sushi. I have been to Sawada and Taichi but I am thinking about somewhere else with the following challenges:

1-) My son doesn't like all kinds of fish so I think that it is better for us to order a-la-carte as opposed to Omakase.

2-) We have an opening for dinner on March 20th but I understand that this is a national holiday (does this mean that most places will be closed)?

3-) I love great sushi (especially Toro and Uni) so I really don't want just normal stuff - I want something great.

I know that this might be a difficult task but I thought that if anyone can help me it would be you ;-).

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Ninisix]

That's OK ! Children under 12-14 are not easily accepted in high-end sushi-yasan, sushi Ikkyu in the 4th floor of Barney's Ginza does, and is open on holidays, but unfortunately closed Wednesdays.. This sushi is a parent sister of 'sushi-ko honten' Ginza, more affordable, still expensive.. I highly recommend you to fix the price, for exemple, 10,000yens and they will arrange with the possible choices. Don't choose the diner set with wine, go for the nigiri only, and order pieces supplement.. just remember that the best maguro pieces are around 2000per piece.. After 2 ranks down, you have sushi Manten in the basement of Marunouchi Square, price is very affordable, you won't have to worry about the price, but the quality of the tuna won't be the same, last time i have had two samples of sea urchin.. 

[talker32]

Thanks for this. Sushi-Ko Honten sounds great. Do you know if they are open on Wednesday March 20th?

Thanks!

[Ninisix]

Yes, Sushiko Honten Ginza is open on March 20th, and they do accept children, estimate cost 20,000yens/pp

[miltronix]

Does Yoshitake also offer a lunch menu? I've been leaning toward Sushi Taichi since you seem to like it better than Sushi Kanesaka (which we tried last year in October and thought was wonderful). I've been reading a lot of good things about Yoshitake as well so I wanted to get your opinion of Yoshitake vs Taichi. We are all English speakers and have a little bit of knowledge about the names of the neta because I bought the book from the Daisan Harumi chef.

[CWFOODIE]

No. It does not serve lunch. For lunch, I would recommend Sushi Iwa.

[Ninisix]

ok, you seem to love sushi as i do ! So, at first, I didn't feel any need to post after the reply of Chowmouse.. I do looove sushi Iwa, I actually enjoyed sushi Iwa even more..
Now, many, as myself, want to pay less. Hence the omakase, for those who choose no risk, especially as the supplement pieces at sushi Iwa are at about 1500 yens to 2000 yens per pieces. If you want cheaper, possibly a full course at lunch, sushi Taichi first price is at 8400,yens..

[BaronDestructo]

In terms of quality, variety, and experience, it's tough to beat Sawada. Of the dozen or so high-end sushi places I've visited over my various trips to Tokyo, it's still tops. Heading to Tokyo in late Jan to early February and have Taku and Harutaka on the dining schedule. Will report back soon.