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Dec 14, 2011 12:53 PM

Cheung Wong Kitchen, (长旺饭店) 38A Allen Street. 良好的卤味鸭: Great Soy Marinate Duck and More

Cheng Wong Restaurant, located on the East side of Allen Street, corner of Hester is always filled with costomers, and offers a great variety of food, though the soy marinate duck (卤鸭) is something is worth a visit.

The menu has a very goods selection of rice dishes, about 58 of them all between $4 to $5.50, as well as the usual selection catagories found on Chinese menus, but the unique item that keeps me coming to this friendly place owned by Guangzhou people is the marinate duck. 卤味 'luwei', soy marinate, is common t many parts of China and the wider Chinese living in other parts of Asia.

The process is very unique and often the pots used do not get cleaned so there is a build up of residue from cooking over the years, and the flavor becomes enriched. They do that in parts of Taiwan and China, though have not a clue as if this is done at any of the places in Chinatown selling Lu style marinate meats (duck and chicken as well as pig and organ meat).

This is not on the menu, the duck or the chicken or other meats all done up in marinate style, but it is best to order a plate of the meat, even mix it up, and then other dishes, such as a green vegetable dish, and a fried noodle dish. These three dishes are good for two or more people, as lon as you get half a duck or even a whole.

Alone, I typically order a plate of a quater duck for under 7 dollars, then some fried noodle, either 米粉 mifen or another, and take much of the noodle home, with two its plenty of noodle, but the half a duck is ordered.

The flavor of the marinate duck at Chang Wong Restaurant is exceptionally good. I have had lu marinated duck 卤味鸭 in Chinatown NYC and it has not been good, and this is the one place that I have found that is quite good., very good.

Other Items on the Menu: In translation the is Casserole, 煲 'bao', which are stove top cooked clay dishes that the mixed ingredients are cooked in and served in. These are typically stews, but most menus in Chinatown translated them into Casserole. There is beef with bean; Braised Crab, Lamb and Bean; Seafood, and others, with prices from 7.95 to 12.50.

A large selection of pan fried noodles, 24, that ranging in price from 5.95 up to 10.95, from 厦门炒米 Xiamen Fried Noodle (Xiamen being an island off Fujian, across from Taiwan), to 海鲜干烧伊面 Soft Egg Noodle wih Seafood.

About 8 selections for each of the following catagories which are served with rice: beef; chicken; pork seafood; vegetalbe with bean curd (a variety of ten for the bean curd) all about 7 to 9 dollars.

Noodles with soup are on offer and a selection of near 20, with choice of 河粉 hefen, thick noodle and 米粉 mifen, thin angle hair size.

Congee 粥 and Hong Kong Style Lo Main 香港捞面 is also with more than 7 choices.

The Lu Wie 卤味鸭
.. ( '`< )
( ( ----' '. ( ; (
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ prepared duck, marinated soy based duck is the best I have had in Chinatown.

Cheung Wong Kitchen
38 Allen St, New York, NY 10002

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  1. what kind of congee? plain? lean pork and preserved egg?

    2 Replies
    1. re: AubWah

      You mentioned preserved egg. They are so delightful, though I am not a fan of congee.

      皮蛋 pidan。 Dangerous, because if I by a box of them from the store, I end up eating them so quickly, and never get to cook with them.

      $3.25 is Pork and Preserved Egg
      "" is Beef Por Squid
      $3.50 is Beef, also Pork
      $4.00 is Fish
      $3.75 is Pork Intestine
      $3.50 is Pork Liver
      $4.50 is Seafood
      $3.50 is Cheicken

      That is all she wrote on the Congee.

      1. re: jonkyo

        would i have to tip if i ordered a congee?

    2. Thanks jonkyo for this detailed review! Sounds like a place worthy of a visit.

      AubWah, why wouldn't you tip? Especially in Chinatown! Over 60% of the Chinese who live there are foreign born and have less then a high school education. 50% only speak Mandarin, Fujianese or Cantonese. Wages are 50% lower than the regional New York average and 20% live in poverty.

      6 Replies
      1. re: scoopG

        I'd tip I'd just rather not especially around the holidays

        1. re: AubWah

          Well, it depends. I know that 泼记 poji 潮州小吃 will remind people to tip. At C and L, the present worker there, a so friendly Taiwanese women does not expect anything, nd a the many run of mill mostly carter to Fuzhou people eating establishments don't expect it either, and most customers do not pay tip. I typically tip though has spent half my adult life in places east and west that don't tip.

          The first time I went to Cheng Wang I did not tip the women server who I actually had some chatting with, and the next day I went there again, and gave her double the tip, apologizing that I had forgotte to tip her the day prior.

          Congee is only 3 dollars, or may a bit more. A dollar tip on that is fine. That s the price of 4 large gum balls from a gum ball machine. For wait staff, it adds up at the end of the day.

          That is my edification indoctrination for the day on tipping.

          1. re: AubWah

            That's the Christmas Spirit!!!!!!!

            1. re: MVNYC

              I would think the holiday would be the best time to tip. You Aubah, could be a prelude to Santa, get the server ready for mood of the gifts that shall be arriving on Christmas Day.

              Problem is that most Chinese do not believe in Santa. See one thing Mao did, among many, was to disspell this belief in Santa by instituting the Cultural Revolution. Not many people know that fact, that the main inspiration for the Cultural Rvolution was Santa, and purging him from folklore and myth.

              I would still tip, just put it in a red envolope.

              1. re: jonkyo

                come on. the last time i was in food sing 88, i ate until i could barley move and the check was like 13 dollars. gave them a 20 and still felt like i was cheating somebody. you cant buy two sandwiches in midtown for 20 bucks, why in gods name would you not tip 30 to 40 percent in chinatown?

        2. sounds really great. Will I be able to order it if I don't speak Chinese and it's not on the menu? Should I simply ask for Soy Marinated Duck? or luwei duck? or just duck?

          thanks for your post!!

          12 Replies
          1. re: vinouspleasure

            Ask for duck. Go to the counter and find a woman behind it that speaks English though she will probably find you and ask in English what you want.

            I think the wait women speak English a bit and can understand what you say. Not sure. But the woman behind the counter will notice you, and it might be busy, but she will take your order.

            Just say "one plate of duck...... half (or quater). say it in that order. One plate of duck 。。。。half/quarter. Use your arm and hand in a cutting motion when you say the half or the quarter.

            But the women behind the counter knows English so....

            The solo vegetable dishes are not on the menu, so if you want one of those delicious solo veggi dishes, just ask for veggie or use the words 一盘素菜 Yi Pan Su Cai. or look around those dining and if some guests have a plate of green vegetables just point.

            I would go bfore 11:30, that way it is not so packet and you will have a nicer time ordering, or go ater 2 pm or late in afternoon.

            I have gone and walked out because of the very crammed seating around noon. If you go on a rainy day, that might be good......just kidding.

            They have other meats, and you could ask for say "one mixed plate with pork, chicken and duck."

            They have awesome pigs feet too.

            1. re: jonkyo


              I love your passion and spirit when you post. Keep it up and please don't get discouraged when the pigheads chime in and disagree with your comments......

              : )

              1. re: fourunder

                thank you for the encouraging words. Passion is what it is all about, and I am sure I don't need to tell you that. Does not take much to spoil a discussion,but it does take something to add to a discussion, or contribute。

                Pigheads you mention, well I just ate pig feet, on Chrystie, and they were delicious.

                That is my next mission, scout out the best place for 猪手 or 猪脚。 zhu shou (pig hand) or zhu jiao (pig feet), well that is without flying over the Pacific, and within 华埠 Chinatown.

                Thanks again。

              2. re: jonkyo

                Thanks, they spoke English so we had no problems. The duck was delicious, the soy marinade pemeated the duck resulting in a nice perfume and an incredidble depth of flavor. I did miss the crispy skin found at ny noodletown or big wong but this was a great rendition. The other dishes were competently made but nothing stood out though the bean curd casserole with seafood had some nice fresh greens and the bean curd was very nice. Not sure I'll get my wife back in, while clean and bright, it didn't have much going on in the way of decor. Also, there are just four tables, so the idea of going off hours makes sense. Thanks again for this great recommendation!

                1. re: vinouspleasure

                  A bit crowded with lots of customers, yes. The soy marinated duck would not be crispy as it is marinated as opposed to roasted. New York Noodletown, for roasted duck, has been my favorite for years, and I just can't find any that is better. Good on mentioning that.

                  I do not mind the decor, and in Asia I have brought French wine with me on my outings to alley way holes in walls, with tables lined in the alley, and feasted and wined with my local contemporaries, while side by side older local men doing the same thing as us but with baijiu 白酒 Chinese Rice Wine. That was with 麻酱面 (Looking for Taiwanese Sesame Noodles (麻將麵 Ma Jiang Mian) recipe - Similar)and awesome fermented tofu 豆干 (

                  There is a deficit of places state side for good fermented tofu, but I never have a problem buying it myself and doing it up at home. Of course some places have it, but not the same as in the alley ways of Formosian Cities or Pig Feet dens in cities and small towns in China.

                  Try that, the wine that is, bring a bottle of wine and some glasses, and try some of their other dishes. THe last time I went there (Cheng Wang), the duck cuts that I had were thick with really significant fat (so good), and wish I had a beer to wash it down with.

                  1. re: jonkyo

                    You make a good point about the thickness of the duck, really generous sized slices and nice and thick. While the skin wasn' crispy, it was soft and delicious. in the short time we were there was a lot of turnover, not sure how comfortable I'd be lingering while drinking a bottle of wine, as you say, a beer would work better. I also saw a family eating fried chicken, I wonder if they are frying up soy marinated chicken? that might end up tasting a little like Korean fried chicken.

                    1. re: vinouspleasure

                      fyi unlike the cantonese chickens you see hanging in the window, soy marinated duck / chicken etc isn't supposed to be crispy (it's actually chiu chow food that became fairly popular amongst cantonese particularly in hong kong where a large amount of chiu chow people came during the war)

                      1. re: vinouspleasure

                        I think your correct, the wine thing that is. There are other places to do that at. My only experinece with something that might be similar was with a Japanese friend who was intent on buying a bottle of Johnny Walker and drinking it at McDonalds over fries and chicken nuggets.

                        Cheng Wang does take out and may even deliver if you are in that area.

                  2. re: jonkyo

                    "I would go bfore 11:30, that way it is not so packet and you will have a nicer time ordering, or go ater 2 pm or late in afternoon."

                    Is it open at dinnertime?

                    1. re: Jim Leff

                      Hi, Jim. Yes, it's open until 10 pm daily.

                      By the way, for everyone's searching purposes, it's actually "Cheung Wong Kitchen."

                      1. re: D...DF

                        Thanks. Seems like a smart way to beat the crowds.

                        "it 's actually "Cheung Wong Kitchen."

                        I wonder if the moderators would mind changing the thread title? I'll "report" this to make that suggestion.

                        1. re: Jim Leff

                          I was using the proper pinyin romanization of the Chinese. That is all.

                2. I am loving your writeups even though I don't live in NY. As an observer of culture, it fascinates me to read the kind of regional Cantonese available in the area, and the differences between the larger percentage of the type of Chinese (and dialect) that is prevalent in NY vs Northern California SF Bay Area.... we hardly have any in the way of Fuzhou people (and cooking), but in San Francisco Chinatown there are tons and tons of people from Taishan (and perhaps some from Zhongshan and random parts of Guangzhou, but mostly Taishan).

                  Wondering if there is a place in NY that serves a killer Fujian style crepe roll 福建薄餅, which is actually very simliar to a Taiwanese "lumpia"/ren bing 潤餅? The ones from my childhood are deep fried and are absolutely excellent but I'd reckon the unfried thin crepe version is equally good.

                  We also have roasties shops in SF Chinatown (run by Taishanese people) that sell soy sauce simmered/marinated duck (and tofu) similarly to how you describe to Chang Wong. Definitely a Chiu Chow/Teochew influenced receipe. The top Teochew restaurants in Hong Kong typically use goose instead of duck, and plate the marinated goose in slices, along with slices of marinated liver. Not uncommon to find marinated chicken feet or goose web feet as well (just as delicious).

                  卤味 Lu wei is done on a totally different scale in Taiwan...typical night market street food (to be eaten with skewer sticks)...mindblowing stuff, and they marinate all sort of things, including fish skin, fish "lips", seaweed (konbu), as well as the usual suspects of tofu and egg etc. We've even taken marinated chicken feet into movie theaters and skipping the popcorn.

                  16 Replies
                  1. re: K K

                    纽约华埠也有台山人, 台山人好多了。

                    I have not been to SF and its Chinatown, though spent some time in Orange County. I knew Taiwanese from LA, and even this city boasts a large overseas population. I had some talk with some Chinese here recently who stated one place in Cali is so huge Vietnamese community.

                    The Fuzhou overseas phenomena on the east coast is huge. In Up State NY and other areas of the Northeast, many of the cities and towns and even small villages have Chinese take out and restuarants that are staffed by Fuzhou people. The city, NYC Chinatwon specifically, is amazing in that in certain areas one will find many of one locations, and I don't mean just Fuzhou in East Braodway Eldridge and Guangzhou in longer established areas, I was sitting in a bakeery having some coffee and these peopl, all from the same place were all using the same 发音 PHONETIC in there speaking localized Chinese and thought it was Schuan but never heard it before. When all the guys together, looking like they just got off work, got ready to leave I said in Chinese "sorry to bother you but were do you come from? Turns out they all came from 西藏 Xi Zang is Tibet.

                    Anyway, demographics is quite interesting, but I am not certain about the Fujian crape, though others may be. I am familiar with the 台湾润饼,(runbing) but I am not too into these sorts of creations, and if I remember correctly alway found it a bit sweet, but I am sure if you take to them they could be really delicous.

                    For those interested copy and paste and google image the Chinese here 台湾润饼,

                    That is "Taiwan runbing" for the pronunciation.

                    The Taiwanese slow simmer marinate (like the way you put that, quite accurate, thanks) 那个台湾卤味菜真好。 It is so good and yes, so many things, from all parts of duck and meats and tongues livers etc of pig, with seaweed in the selections bin to along with 豆干 DOU GAN fermented tofu. Often the colors are dark for the meats and other items such as duck liver, etc.

                    In the south there are these nice wood interior spot with lots of tables and benches, selling such a large selectrion of this in an atmosphere with very large mugs of tap beer.

                    There is also the 盐酥鸡 yansuji street food vendors who deep fry a variety of foods in the evening like 鸡屁股 'jipigu' chicken butt (, and the cakes of rice mixed with pig blood. For those who do not know, here in this photo is what the deep fry selection looks like for the customer to pick out his or her selection to be deep fried:

                    I also am a big big fan in evenings of 东山鸭头 dongshanyatou Dong Shan Duck Head, a very very sticky form of slow marinate simmer, with parts of the duck such as liver neck, the chewy head. etc:

                    Dong Shan Duck Head is very local to 东山在台南县 the town of Dong Shan in Tainan County, Tainan being in the south west on the coast of Taiwan. Quote “東山鴨頭,1970年代起源自台灣台南市東山區” Dong Shan Ya Tou (dong shan duck head) originated in Dong Shan area of Tainan County in the 1070s. wiki on Dong Shan Ya Tou:


                    Vendors of this are located in areas all over Tainan City, and can be found in other cities and towns. For those who might want a look at this location specific food here is a photo: and more PHOTOof the FOOD offered from Dong Shan Vendor:hit the different photos on this page for larger image:



                    "卤味 Lu wei is done on a totally different scale in Taiwan...typical night market street food (to be eaten with skewer sticks)...mindblowing stuff, and they marinate all sort of things, including fish skin, fish "lips", seaweed (konbu), as well as the usual suspects of tofu and egg etc. We've even taken marinated chicken feet into movie theaters and skipping the popcorn."THAT IS SO TRUE, MIND BLOWING STUFF AND SO DELICIOUS. VERY.

                    台式卤味 Taiwan syle slow simmer soy based marinate foods. You must go to Taiwan to experinece this very speical treatment of everything from duck livers to slabs of beef (I think or pork is it?) and more.

                    东山鸭头 A special way to darkly treat the heads and other items such as livers, feet and necks of ducks resulting in a potent thick sticky tasting delight. You must go to souther Taiwan to taste this. Book your flight now:


                    盐酥鸡 Yan Su Ji Salty Deep Fried Crispy Chicken, along with all sorts of other items, from tofu to chicken butt, and green beans to fry along with your chicken. You must go to Taiwan for this. Accept no substitute or faux products claiming to be this unique Taiwan vendor food。

                    And when you checking out the Dong Shan Ya Tou in Tainan County, visit the natural hot springs, which will just give you a big appitite when you done:

                    They are volcanic underground derived waters, and so health.

                    There is alos the 布袋鱼市场 Bu Dai Fish Market, very large fish market in a coastal rural setting that is so big west of Tainan up the coast in 嘉义县,Chiayi County.


                    Best Tuna Belly I have ever had:

                    Bu Dai fish Market webpage CALLED "布袋魚市場(一)"



                    布袋港 The port of Bu Dai and the area around the region has salt:

                    Generally speaking this blog has some excellent photos of all sorts of Taiwan food with some explainations in chinese, but just chekc the photos out:

                    1. re: K K

                      They will get there eventually KK! What we have is an internal reverse migratory pattern (West to East) that began in 1849 in California. Now from NYC the Fujian immigrants are spreading westward.

                      1. re: K K

                        薄餅 (bao bing) or 潤餅 (run bing) is not fuzhou food as far as i know, it's minnan (hokkien) food, which is different as its the southern part of the fujian province close to chao zhou / shan tou (chiu chow / teochew area). It is commonly found in singapore and malaysia as well as taiwan.

                        for everyone that doesn't know, its a type of spring roll, here's a pic of it from a blog in singapore that i follow:

                        it is not found at the fuzhou restaurants in NY, however you can find it at most of the malaysian restaurants in NY although i haven't had a good version yet (i absolutely love this dish and used to eat it all the time in singapore where you can find really good versions fairly easily


                        yah the lu wei in taiwan is a little different, but it is awesome as well

                        1. re: Lau

                          I know of a Malaysian restaurant that is quite good.

                          It is on Allen street below Canal: Skyway Malaysian Restaurant

                          11 Allen Street, New York, United States

                          This place, Skyway, is really down home, unlike the more trendy up market Malaysian Restaurant on Grand..... Nyonya 199 Grand. I refuse to go to Nyonya on principle, but have no problem popping into Skyway for some great food.

                          I don't think either has this hefty roll or what Americans call wraps these days. The run bing that is 润饼。

                          Anyone fancy the Vietnamese sandwiches, that have seemed to become such a trend in the period of my absence from NYC. They were non-existing 5 to 7 yerars ago. It comes from the era of French colonial rule, I would purpose.

                          Just as in West Africa, French bread, the long baked thing, is all over the place. You can see people with the long loaves of French breads walking from the morning markets even in an out of the way village.

                          Just the only difference is that Peugeot cars that are about the only cars on the roads in West Africa, and not so much found in Vietnam, as they seem to have long purged the influence of trade products from their old former barbaric (at the time) colonial slavemaster.

                          199 Grand St, New York, NY 10013

                          11 Allen St, New York, NY 10002

                          1. re: jonkyo

                            i dont really like skyway, its gone way downhill, but i could give it another shot

                            btw i forgot to say in my post at the malaysian restaurants it will be called "popiah", trust me every single one of them serves it

                            most of the vietnamese sandwiches in NY are pretty bad, but saigon banh mi and banh mi so 1 are decent

                            Saigon Banh Mi 1
                            369 Broome St, New York, NY 10013

                            Banh Mi Saigon
                            198 Grand St, New York, NY 10013

                            11 Allen St, New York, NY 10002

                            1. re: Lau

                              I like Overseas for Malaysian food

                            2. re: jonkyo

                              I agree with Lau on Skyway, in that it used to be very good, but my opinion is that it went way downhill and then back up, so that now it's reliable and good (at least for what I order), but you won't get really spicy food there like you'd be served in Malaysia.

                              11 Allen St, New York, NY 10002

                              1. re: Pan

                                Pan - what dishes are you liking there?

                                1. re: Lau

                                  Oh, at Skyway. I usually get the Curry Soup with Yong Tau Fu, the Kangkung or Lady Fingers Belacan. I usually have a limited menu because I can't eat that much by myself and also try to do low carbs most of the time.

                            3. re: Lau

                              It sure is Fujian!

                              The Fujian style crepe roll or pancake (福建薄餅 - Fújiàn Báobǐng) is really family home-style food. Most families make the pancake then roll it with filling and finally dip it into a very thin batter and deep-fry it. It is an extremely thin pancake, perhaps the thinnest in all of China. Some say it is related to the scallion pancake but I am not sure about that. Now the question is to see if any of these Fujian spots have them!

                              Jacqueline M. Newman has a recipe for them in her Fujian cookbook (“Cooking From China’s Fujian Province” Hippocrene Books; New York, 2008.)

                              She says that they can be deep-fried, steamed or pan-fried alone and are used for any number of cooked filings.

                              Images of the Fujian Baobing:

                              1. re: scoopG

                                well minnan people live in the fujian province, they are southern fujian

                                i said fuzhou which is different, minnan and fuzhou people are both fujian, but their language and food is different

                                i have yet to see anything similar to that at any fuzhou restaurants, its possible they make them too, but i haven't heard of it. i googled in chinese and a fried spring roll comes up like once or twice, but not what im talking about

                                1. re: Lau

                                  I think it is just easier to say Fujian.

                                  Yes, Fujianese is also known as Min. The ancient Book of Rites says there were seven Min tribes. There are at least five different dialects spoken in Fujian province.

                                  1. re: scoopG

                                    i break it up b/c their food is fairly different, obviously there are similarities, but the food the fuzhou people eat in chinatown is quite a bit different from hokkien (minnan) food that is eaten in taiwan / singapore (and from my understanding xiamen, quanzhou etc where hokkien / minnan people are originally from)

                                    i mean chao zhou / shan tou, xiamen / quanzhou and fuzhou are all actually pretty damn close to each other on a map, but their food is all quite a bit different

                                    there is even a place in between xiamen / quanzhou and fuzhou called pu tian that has way different food (i had some of their food when i lived in singapore, people considered it sort of a novelty b/c it was quite a bit different)

                                    its almost like saying cantonese people are the same as chao zhou (chiu chow / teochew) people since they live close to each other in the same province....i guarantee none of them would agree with that

                                    1. re: Lau

                                      Chaozhou/Chiu Chow is a subset of Cantonese, of course. Within Fujian there are at least three culinary subsets. Fuzhou style, Xiamen/Quanzhou style and the third is Western Fujian. All are Min. Fuzhou style is northern Min (Minbei), Xiamen/Quanzhou is southern Min (Minnan) and Western Fujian is Minxi - where there is the Hakka influence.

                                      1. re: scoopG

                                        actually chaozhou people are more similar to the fujian people, their languages are related and part of the same family of languages....its a common misconception that they're more related to cantonese people, in fact i actually thought that for a long time and then i looked it up and their language is related to minnan hua. If you've ever heard teochew it actually sounds alot more similar to minnan hua than cantonese


                                        however, there is some influence in hong kong cuisine from teochew people b/c alot of the immigrated to HK during WW2 (li ka shing is actually teochew)

                                2. re: scoopG

                                  I'll go for deep fried. Sounds quite good.
                                  Goodle image results of 炸润饼, if it pulls up, some great photos linked to all sorts of articles and websites:

                            4. great review, i've been meaning to try this place for a while since it's very close to where i live, but just never made it in somehow although i never seems to be too busy...ill stop in soon

                              3 Replies
                              1. re: Lau

                                You mean Skyway?

                                If so, I have only been once, actually, but had desired to go back. It is not too far off from where I am, also, and I love that nook of Allen Street, kind of nice.

                                The dish I had was a dark curry, with beef, and it was spicy and nice. I wish I had gone for a more sit down meal. What I gathered is the menu is full, and I would spend some time looking over it before ordering. I did not.

                                It had a feel of the place that it seemed kind of local, catering to some regulars, but I could be wrong. Anyway, it has a unique feel to it.

                                11 Allen St, New York, NY 10002

                                1. re: jonkyo

                                  no chang wang, i live in the LES so chang wang isn't very far from where i live it's just a little south of where i live

                                  1. re: Lau

                                    I had duck yesterday, 烤鸭, and wish I had hopped over to Cheng Wang instead for 卤鸭.

                                    I would head over to Skyway with some friends, they have wine selection, and it might offer a nice evening dining experiece, with pretty good Malaysian food.