Fairly long Paris recap
Hello Paris brain trust.
I never posted on this board, though I pored over it extensively prior to our first visit to Paris two weeks ago. Many of your posts were very informative and helped us winnow down our choices for the trip. I feel that I owe you all a recap of highlights – some of the details are fuzzy. I blame the wine.
Spring – An absolutely fantastic meal. We started our meal downstairs and then were switched to a table near the kitchen for our last main (pigeon) and dessert. Chef Daniel Rose was fun and gracious. Highlights: the first course included a small cup/large thimble of the best, springiest chicken broth I’ve ever tasted. I’d never have thought that broth itself could be complex and pure at the same time. We also had some lovely radishes, bread and delicious, salty butter and an amuse that included a slice of fois. The next course was scallops and a umami-filled vinaigrette. These were my favorite part of the meal and truly fantastic. We also had john dory in a cockle foam, the aforementioned pigeon, and 4 desserts (poached pear rolled in almonds with chocolate, cocoa-dusted marshmallows, chocolate mousse with intense coffee granite, and another something lovely that I was too drunk to file away at the time). Wines were superb and well-paired. We had a glass of an unusual chardonnay from Champagne with the first courses that was especially notable.
Lunch at Au Père Louis. This wine bar has excellent country-style food and we were the only non-locals there. Beautiful cassoulet and brandade. Nice wines by the glass and reasonably-priced. Perfect stop after a trip to Musée d'Orsay.
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte. We were looking for an easy/simple dinner and had heard this place was good. We felt a little like tourists coming here, but the steak frites was tasty and fun. We actually had a reservation at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and canceled it because it felt like too much hoopla and money after the previous lunch and dinner. Mistake? Maybe, but I don’t regret it on this trip.
Le Verre Volé – It’s kind of ridiculous how far we trekked for meals on Monday, especially after going to the Louvre in the morning. Le Verre Volé was another great local wine bar with extremely fresh food. We had mussels with sausage and the duck confit. We also started with a very refreshing and spicy ceviche. Wine selections were interesting and solid.
Du Pain et des Idées - We were nearby and hadn’t tried any bakery items yet. We lucked out and got a baguette straight out of the oven. Steam poured out of it when we cracked it open on the street. We couldn’t resist trying a bite even though we were stuffed from lunch. It was the baguette that all others will aspire to in the future. We also bought a pain au chocolat and a fresh apple pastry that made for a perfect breakfast the next morning.
Jadis – The restaurant is in kind of a strange room in an unlikely neighborhood. We both opted for the 34 euro 3-course meal which is surely one of the best deals in Paris. All of the food was exquisite and unexpected. I was especially impressed with my veal medallions which came alongside something that I believe was described as saffron macaroni with popcorn. All of the food was extremely creative. The cheese was also ton notch.
Thanks for all of your posts and recommendations! You helped us craft a visit that felt perfect.