NY 'hound on 5 day visit--specific questions

[freddie]

i'll be in LA for the first time this week for a conference, with some free time for chowhounding built in. i'll be staying in santa monica for the first few days, and will have a car. then to the conference--downtown, at the westin hotel on south figueroa street.

i'd love recommendations and input. in general, i'm looking for inexpensive and neighborhoody, and am up for all cuisines (particularly mexican--we don't have good options here). oh, and iranian is a must too, because i'm iranian and am interested in checking out the LA scene.

my questions
1. what are your mexican favorites? i'm getting overwhelmed by the gazillion options--if you could point out your favorites, i can go from there.
2. should i go to shahrzad or shamshiri? what about iranian ice cream places? or pastry or cookie places?
3. what about santa monica breakfast and lunch places? (casual but excellent would be lovely).
4. what about downtown? is it a complete wasteland? is there anywhere near the conference hotel where i can grab lunch?
5. the one thing i've planned in advance is a reservation at lucques, given all the praise of the sunday suppers book on the home cooking board--but after browsing this board, i wonder if i should try for AOC instead. thoughts? what are your lucques favorites?
6. one other thing...i'm being treated to dinner at ciudad. the only things i've read about the place here is that it's expensive and uninspired. is there anything salvagable to be had there? (besides the churros which one 'hound recommended, and i'm excited to try)

thanks, all, for your help. i promise i'll post back...

[Christine]

Just for starters, no real specifics:

1. Try Guelguetza for Oaxocan food; there are a few branches that are within reach of either hotel stays. Also, take a drive down Whittier Boulevard in East LA and have fish tacos at Tacos Baja Ensenada.

2. Shahrazad.

4. LA's Little Tokyo is a stone's throw from downtown; there's a shuttle called the DASH that can take you there (and Chinatown and Olvera Street). Try some of our great sushi or noodles.

5. AOC and Lucques are quite different from one another. I prefer the menu at Lucques, but AOC is trendy, bustling, and also very good. Can you manage to do both?

Have a great stay and we'll look forward to hearing about it.

[freddie]

Christine, thanks.

i'm so excited! we don't have fish tacos in ny at all!

great sushi and noodles tempt... any particular recommendations?

[Christine]

There are a couple recent threads about Little Tokyo that you might find helpful. I haven't been to Izayoi, but it's on my to-try list.

Izayoi
http://www.chowhound.com/california/boards/losangeles/messages/232396.html

Other sushi/Japanese
http://www.chowhound.com/california/boards/losangeles/messages/232310.html
http://www.chowhound.com/california/boards/losangeles/messages/232046.html

Also, you can drive a bit west of downtown for some excellent Korean food. Chowhounder "Williams" has a nice rundown:

http://www.chowhound.com/california/b...

If you can get someone to go with you, try the venerable Soot Bul Jeep. Just don't wear nice clothes; you'll smell like a campfire. But I love this place for its funkiness. And the food is quite good. My favorite upscale Korean barbeque is Tahoe Galbi. Again, with a friend or two so you can try a few things out.

If you can't get anyone to go with you, try the all-you-can-eat Korean BBQ at Manna. It's a great deal at under $20 and this way you'd be able to take smaller tastes of a variety of things.

[sirlancie]

in terms of korean bbq, i would recommend cho-sun galbi over both soot bull jeep and tahoe. manna isn't really worth it unless you are going for quantity over quality.

[Anna]

...fish tacos, y'say...?

I don't think there's a hound on the board who'd take exception to my recommending Tacos Baja Ensenada--

5385 Whittier Blvd, Los Angeles, 90022 - [phone]

--they're amazing. there's not a finer fish taco in the city. and I think I'm gonna haveta go tomorrow, having made myself hungry for 'em...

[Porthos]

I agree. Try to do both Lucques and AOC. AOC is a true LA dining destination. I tend to be pretty NY-centric when it comes to restaurant recs but I would put AOC on par with Babbo and Lupa as a "must try". Must haves include the trout wrapped in pancetta (not as boring as it sounds). the brioche with prosciutto, gruyère and egg, and baked arroz negro with squid and saffron aioli. The house made boudin blanc I had one night was also stellar.

[condiment]

Lucques has uniquely Californian virtues, but AOC is both derivative of and inferior to several NYC restaurants, of the ilk of Inoteca, Paradou, DOC, etc. The charcuterie selection is uninspired and reflects no particular point of view, and while some of the Spanish-inspired dishes are fine, the rest of the menu tends to be unfocussed.

I realize that AOC was never meant to be a temple of cuisine, but a lot of people seem to be treating it as one.

[Porthos]

Wow, is it possible to meet a bigger NYC-phile than myself? Anyways, what about the brioche with with prosciutto, gruyère and egg, the arroz negro, and the pancetta trout? Even the pancetta trout, as tired as it sounds, works quite well with the roasted grapes and sorrel stuffing. Tell me where to find better versions in NYC. Throw in the solid wine selection and the decent prices and you've got a distinctly LA spot.

[Aristotelian]

I don't know about Iranian food, but the Persian ice cream place, Mashti Malone's, is excellent. Although it sounds like you have limited time, it will be worth the investment and I would give it a strong recommendation.

It has the best ice cream I've had in LA, better than any I had in NY (strangely enough, I can't think of any NY ice cream as particularly memorable; I guess the Chinatown one is pretty good).

Original flavors such as saffron, rosewater, and orange blossom, and a nice creamy texture. Probably the one that will be most convenient is in a minimall off of Sunset (I think on Labrea). There is another branch in Glendale.

[Aristotelian]

Also, while you're downtown, I would recommend Mama's Hot Tamales, on 7th St. off of Alvarado, across from MacArthur Park. If you're looking for neighborhoody restaurants, you won't find much downtown, but this is pretty close and would be a good lunch option while you're conferencing. They have terrific tamales, about a dozen flavors, with a "plate" option that comes with rice and beans. They also have some of the best coffee I've found in L.A.

http://www.iurd.org/mamasHotTamales/

[Like-Go-Eat?]

Mama's is good for Tamales. For asada tacos go to El Parian. When downtown the Red Line (subway) can help get around.

(Red Line at MacArthur Park)
Mama's Hot Tamales Café (Tamales)
2124 W Seventh St
Los Angeles, CA 90057-4001
[phone]

(Red Line at MacArthur Park)
Langer's (Pastrami – request “hand cut.” lunch only – they close early because, well... you will know )
704 S Alvarado St
Los Angeles, CA 90057-4020
[phone]

(Red Line at Union Station) Visit Olvera Street
Cielito Lindo ( Taquitos )
E-23 Olvera Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012
[phone]
http://cielitolindo.org/pictures.htm

Mr Churro's
15 Olvera Street
Los Angeles, CA
213-680-9036

(Red Line at Union Station
)Hop Li (Chinese that is well worth the walk from Union Station)
526 Alpine St
Los Angeles, CA 90012-2308
[phone]
Cross Street: Hill Street

El Parian Restaurant (Maybe the best Carne asada, and Goat tacos in L.A.).
1528 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles
[phone]
Just West of the Harbor Fry and Staples Center in Downtown . (NOTICE THAT They LOOK as if they are closed but open the door and walk inside)

Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

[Macdonald]

There is a King Taco on Washington Bl a quick drive away from South Figueroa and if you go on a weekends they also have good roast chicken. It is a very LA experience, unlike anything in NY. Try the sopes with their salsa verde (or fiery rojo picante) and always fresh al pastor from constant turnover unlike other taco places. Make sure you get a liberal dusting of the cotija cheese too.

I haven't been to Shahrzad yet only Shamshiri, but the WLA branch of Shamshiri is not as good as Glendale location. However lunch special is a good deal for decent koobideh, beef & chicken bargs and shirazi salad.

In downtown area, check out R-23 in Little Tokyo for sushi and Daikokuya for pork ramen.

Lucques and AOC are both great, go to both especially if you like rich, decadent French-Spanish (yet still very Cal) tapas and cuisine that go great with all sorts of interesting wines.

Mojitos are good at Ciudad and appetizers are OK, but don't commit to an entreé.

Have a wonderful trip and welcome to Los Angeles :)

[ipse dixit]

1. BABITA for Mexican

2. Dunno

3. FIREHOUSE CAFE for breakfast and NOOK BISTRO for lunch.

4. Which Hotel are you in? The Sheraton, Bonaventure, Wilshire Grand? CAFE PINOT, WATER GRILL, CICADA and NICK & STEF'S are all high-end options for lunch.

5. Nothing wrong with LUCQUES. AOC is also good, although I've never been a big fan.

6. Get the flan at CIUDAD. Skip the apps and entrees.

[Sandra W.]

Sharazd Flame on Westwood Blvd.

For Mexican food from the Yucatan, try Chichenitza, located in the Mercado Paloma. It is not open very late for dinner. (Downtown, near USC) I'm addicted to their turkey panuchos.

For lunch downtown, get thee to the Grand Central Market. I think it's only a few blocks from your hotel. You should also be able to find info about it if you do a search on this site.
http://www.grandcentralsquare.com/

Link: http://www.chichenitzarestaurant.com/...

[donnymac]

Ciudad can be tasty. Just choose wisely.

If possible, order some of the ceviches, especially if they have any of the peruvian style ones on the menu (aji amarillo chile, ginger, lime, red onion, usuually with halibut, or tuna this time of year). Have it with a glass of Albarino and you're set.

Also, I find most of the pork and grilled red meat options at Ciudad dependable, and they normally have some interesting Spanish or South American reds by the glass to match.

[cka]

1) the chorizo cheese tacos at Tacos Por Favor (Olympic at 14th - Santa Monica) are excellent, and the salsa bar there is good. Very authentic, casual spot for a quick bite.

3) Snug Harbor, on Wilshire at 24th in Santa Monica, is a great breakfast spot, especially if you can go on a weekday to avoid the long waits on Saturday and Sunday. The owner is a very nice guy, and the specialty of the house - the Hungryman - will keep you full and happy most of the day. All their scrambles are really good. They also have fresh blackberry pancakes some times that are very good.

5) I've been to both Lucques and AOC and while they're both great dining experiences, I prefer Lucques. It comes across as a little bit less of a Scene and more of a dining focused experience. The bacon wrapped, parmesan stuffed dates at AOC are amazing, however, and the cheese selections when we were there were fantastic. That said, the salmon I had, and the short ribs my husband ordered at Lucques were sublime. Our server helped make it a very memorable experience. Can't wait to go back for a Sunday Supper.

[davina]

The ceviche appetizer at Ciudad is divine.

[Oro3030]

The link below is from a LA Times survey of the top 10 Persian options around LA.
I may be in the disitinct minority in that I think Shaherzad is kind of a one-trick pony for the bread. I really like the stews (especially the fesenjan) at Javan even though the atmosphere is a little weird.
Don't miss Mashti Malone's for the ice cream a people have already noted.

I second Gueleguetza (in Koreatown) but I would propose my favorite Mexican place at the moment - La Casita Mexicana in Bell which specializes in Puebla style cooking (the chiles en nogada are spectacular) and is very reasonably priced.
http://www.casitamex.com/

If you are downtown it is not far to get to the wonders of the San Gabriel Valley for regional chinese food.
In particular you should try one of the unique dim sum places like New Concept, Mission 261, Capitol Seafood, or Sea Harbour. Also there is good sichuan and shanghaiese food but to name a few.
Good luck.

Link: http://www.latimes.com/features/food/...

[Mr Grub]

There are downtown (no car) options from the Bonaventure.

The DASH shuttles are your friends. Ask the desk for a map. Take A line (from crnr Fig/5th) to Little Tokyo for lunch. Current Grub favs by category are Haru Ulala for izakaya, Sushi Go 55 for sushi, Kokkekoko for chicken yakatori.

Take DASH B (from crnr Flower/5th) roundabout to Chinatown (Phillipe’s for French dip sandwiches, Hop Li for traditional Chinese, Ocean Seafood for dim sum) or to Olvera Street (La Luz del Dia or La Golondrina are good choices).

For an interesting & pleasant short walk ending in good food, find & cross the ped bridge from the Bon to the YMCA. Walk past the front of the Y to Hope St, then cross & left to the 1st stairs/escalator on the right. Up to Nick ‘n Stef’s on the left. An upscale steakhouse with a killer, & not terribly pricey but not inexpensive, lunch steak. If you are alone, they will bring it to the bar.

You are w/in a short walk to the Jewelry District (heart is Hill btwn 6th & 7th). For your inexpensive downtown Iranian, simply enter any of the jewelry bldgs & ask a few shopkeepers in Farci where they eat . There are many, many delicious & inexpensive options – many not visible to the naked eye.

For addresses & maps, one of the best ways is thru the LA County Bd of Health site, linked below, which also gives the resto’s inspection score.

Link: http://www.lapublichealth.org/rating/

[Eric Eto]

A useful resource is Modernist's post of his favorite places (linked below). There are a bunch of great places to choose from on that list.

Since you're probably not in charge of 100% of your time, the best way to organize your eating itinerary is to think geographically, with a listing of places that are proximate to one another, so maybe you can fit in two small meals or have a list of places to refer to when you're in a certain area. It's great to have choices. For instance, in West LA/Santa Monica, I'd go to Father's Office, Japanese on Sawetelle, Persian on Westwood, and throw in some Mexican options in the west side, or maybe a fast food burger place (In n' Out/Fatburger). For breakfasty stuff, maybe Pann's near the airport, or Johnny O'Groats (big breakfasts). Also, don't count out donuts, which are one of LA's greatest unsung culinary items. I like Primo's on Sawetelle (near the freeway) or Bob's in the Farmer's market, and Stan's in Westwood for their odd flavors.

Similarly, if you're going to be traveling around with a car for say, Chinese in San Gabriel, maybe you'll want to throw in some time for Vietnamese sandwiches or, a burger and pie at Pie 'n Burger in Pasadena, or a stop for a little Mexican food in East LA too. Especially for short trips to LA, I tend to think like this so I can get the most out of my mileage.

Arounnd downtown, like others have said, Little Tokyo, Chinatown, Olvera Street, Grand Central Market are quick cab/bus rides away, and you'll be able to enjoy a number of options at any of these places. If you're unable to get to East LA for fish tacos, you'll find them available at Grand Central market or in Little Tokyo (Señor Fish). There's also a number of old classic places like Clifton's, Cole's, or Philippe's from pre-war LA that also deserves a look. As a donut fiend, I usually never miss an opportunity to get filled churros at Mr. Churros on Olvera.

If you have a car available while you're downtown, you open yourself up to another multitude of options within a short distance, like Armenian or Thai in Hollywood, Mexican in East LA, Chinese in San Gabriel.

To answer your Persian question, I think you'll enjoy any of the places near Westwood, as they will be an improvement upon any of the places in NYC. I wouldn't count out Javan either. Then, a trip to Rose's market on Westwood for Persian ice cream will hit the spot, if you have room. I like Mashti Malone's a little better, but that's a trek away in Hollywood.

Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

[Like-Go-Eat?]

If you want to feed your soul at breakfast time in Santa Monica consider (I think this is a true L.A. original) a Breakfast Sandwich at Tommy’s Original – egg, sausage, cheese, chili, mayo, pickle, tomato and onions on a English Muffin – Do not forget to request the English Muffin or it will be a burger bun. A great way to wake up with some coffee.

For a lunch or dinner in Santa Monica I could not say enough about the Chinese Chicken Salad at California Chicken Café. I ask for white meat only, extra almonds, no pasta, no wantons but only mention it here to point out that they have never got it wrong. This is a special salad – very large. When I consider the number of locations and the lines at each location this must be the most popular salad in L.A.

Tommy’s Original (Breakfast Sandwich)
1900 Lincoln Blvd.
[phone]

California Chicken Café (Chinese Chicken Salad, Fruit salad and Rotisserie Chicken)
2401 Wilshire Boulevard (at the North/East corner of 24th Street in Santa Monica - parking in front, rear and on side streets)
Santa Monica, CA 90403
[phone]
Monday - Friday: 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Saturday: 12:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Sunday: Closed

Link: http://www.californiachickencafe.com/