Psst... We're working on the next generation of Chowhound! View >
HOME > Chowhound > France >
Oct 13, 2011 05:17 PM

Our week in Paris ~ Le Baratin, Les Papilles, Spring, Au Passages and Chez l'Ami Jean

We spent last week in Paris in a great little studio on rue Rivoli (after 2 great weeks in the Greek Islands!). We returned to 3 favourites ~ Le Baratin, Les Papilles and our perennial favourite, Spring, tried the new wine bar in the 11th run by Spring alumni, Au Passages and finally lost our CLJ virginity, aided and abetted by Parigi and her hubby.

Spring and CLJ were the standouts for us this time and we will return to both.

Here are my blog entries and pictures of all these wonderful meals.

Man, I love Paris. This is my 7th trip in 4 years and we will be back in May with our grandson (so probably no eating marathons next year, but that's ok. I can't wait to show Sebastian our favourite city in the world.


Thanks to everyone here who helped guide our choices this year. You all helped make this trip a wonderful success.


  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
  1. Nice report. Good choices well described, both restaurants and extra-curricular.

    5 Replies
    1. re: mangeur

      Parijo&Den&we had a phenomenal meal chez l'Ami Jean.
      When Mario asked us: "would you like the 42 euro menu, or would you like the 55 euro menu, or would you like the chef to take care of you?" there is only one answer possible, right?
      He also made sure we eat everything, because from that moment on, we'd eat whatever struck Jégo's fancy.
      I assured him that the Cantonese, of which I am one, are said to eat anything on 4 legs except a stool.
      The mood is set.
      Mario is happy. Jégo is happy. We are ecstatic.
      When Jégo is happy, he really takes care of you.
      And, o, we were also comped up the wazoo.
      Subsequent to a recent thread, I am nearly reluctant to talk about this for fear that hounds would go to Chez l'Ami Jean expecting charcuterie, the rosé mousseux, the dessert trio, the bubblies at the end. The chef and the waiters were all in a great mood. They just wanted to please. I frankly don't know where the taken-care-of-by-the-chef menu starts and the comps end. Let's just say we absolutely enjoyed - and were grateful for - Jégo's generosity and seemingly ever growing creativity.
      The wine was Brana Irroulégui, our fave Basque wine.

      The taken-care-of-by-Jégo dégustation is 55 euro per person. In the past, we have been charged more for that, but once it was a game-focused menu, and another time, it was a death-by-foie-gras harakiri. When ordering, we didn't even ask how much it would cost and just kept saying oui and oui and oui , as though hypnotized. We WERE hypnotized.
      You have to be a non-negotiable omnivore. We might as well be blind folded. And everyone at the table has to agree to have this selfsame menu.
      Jégo has suggested it in the past. Not every time we went, but often enough. He has to be in the mood and we, we are always in the mood.

      How many dishes? I lost count after the 7th dish. All orgasmic. The most outstanding (we are comparing outstanding and transcendentally outstanding now) were the razor clams, the saint Jacques, the sweet breads, a mystery bean mash with a hint of heat (I suspect fève), the ginger cream dessert cup. In this lineup, the incomparable rice pudding manages to be just one of.
      I was one happy girl. look.

      1. re: Parigi

        On the metro just now, I thought: "you forgot the poisson de roche broth, you moron."
        That broth which was the starting starter started the orgasmic ball rolling.

        1. re: Parigi

          Nancy, the recent posts about comps influenced my post a little bit ~ I did not want to be seen bragging about all the wonderful freebies we received. It truly was one of the best (and most fun) meals I've ever had and we will surely return. Thanks for filling in the details of my fuzzy and jetlagged memory. I should never wait 6 days before posting an entry, but there was too much Paris and too little time left to stop! I love that picture of you and Jego! Too bad so many of the other food pictures were so bad, lol. That's what happens when it's not Den taking the shots.
          You guys are so much fun.......a la prochaine!

          1. re: parisjo

            "the recent posts about comps influenced my post a little bit ~ I did not want to be seen bragging about all the wonderful freebies we received."
            I figured If a chef has been generous with us, - hell, if anyone has been generous with us, - we should be thankful and say so. It's the gracious thing to do.

            1. re: Parigi

              Absolutely right. Thanks for filling in all my missing spots, this was the meal to beat for this trip. Jego is a madman, but a handsome, talented one, lol.


      2. Excellent report, Thanks and nice meeting you.

        1. I read your blog report off the link from Fodor's and loved it. I was going to ask which food sites you were referring to when you said you found Au Passsage from "a few parisian food sites that are very reliable since they are hosted by locals and ex-pats who love all things related to the food and restaurant scene in Paris". And lo and behold it was Chowhound! What others do you use? We are going in March and have already dined at Les Papilles, Spring, Le Baratin and Chez L'Ami Jean. I think I already have more restaurants on my list than we have days in Paris but Chez L'Ami Jean is definitely one we will return to. And I don't care if we get comped or not- the food is worth every euro!! Thanks for the report.

          1 Reply
          1. re: AGM_Cape_Cod

            I also really like Paris by Mouth. These are the 2 food sites I read obsessively every day, lol.
            I haven't written about our last day yet, but we returned to one of our favourite little bistros, Le Vieux Comptoir, in the 1st.
            Have a wonderful trip in March (it's only 5 months away!).