Reports on L'Auberge du 15, please
- mangeur Oct 12, 2011 09:33 AM
The fall menu looks interesting, featuring lots of game and an unusual plate: Abattis de Volaille which includes crétes, rognons, gésiers, foies mijotés aux cepes, jus de volaille au vinaigre. Wow! Also grouse, colvert, perdreau and marcassin. Many plates for two. http://www.laubergedu15.com/
I echo mangeur's request. John Talbott liked it last year: http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/... -- and so have others: http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-... . But comparing the reatuarant's web site and last year's reviews, it looks like the prices have shot up since the opening? -- Jake
Thanks for this DCM. My worry was that at the beginning most of the more interesting main plates were for two, and I couldn't make the choices work for my husband AND me. Are the mains still portioned this way?
And to Jake, remember that JT's comments always refer to lunch unless a very rare exception which he usually notes. So after reading his comments, consider that there may be a completely different format as well as price structure at dinner.
Ms. L. and I also dined there last night. My impressions were, a lovely interior with blond wood highlighting stone and attractive brass lighting fixtures, rather expensive but generous servings of excellent product, nicely prepared. Ms. L is a langoustine afficionado and she could not remember ever having bigger, better prepared ones. My Tuna entrée was somewhere in the neighborhood of superb, served with a longitudinal slice of aubergine and purée of same with dried tomato. My main was a rack of agneau fermier with caramelized onions and good mashed potatoes. We had an interesting dessert called a Serviteur Muet, which was a very generous panoply of raspberries, apple, fraise de bois, physalis, cake and meringue.
I thought the wine list was a little overpriced and ordered a Jurançon sec for €35 which was among their lowest price offerings. Other than the tasting menu, the only main courses not for 2 were the langoustines, pigeon and lamb. Would I go back...absolutely, we have already reserved. Our bill for the above was €143.
Had lunch today, did the tasting, everything was perfect and delightful as usual, and without any sense of surprise or party as usual. The 68e tasting today was:
- chestnut soup,
- turbot, girolles and jus de viande (picture)
- partridge, cabbage and cognac sauce (awesome)
- mascarpone mousse
- chocolate fondant
A bottle of Savigny 2010 (chosen by the littel waitress) and sparkling water put the bill at 220€ for two.
The contrast was Bruno Verjus' table was striking - one of those guys is a cook, the other is a food lover. L'Auberge is still one of my personal favorites in town -- I just wish they had an element of excess and suprising delight, something alla Savoy, instead of that austere, no-nonsense, we cook well and are nice approach.
They changed the concept. I don't know if it followed the first star or happened before, but l'Auberge is now a much more traditional fine dining experience, with tasting menu of 4 or 7 courses at lunch, 7 or 9 at dinner, no ALC anymore, and a new Japanese chef.
Nicolas Castelet, the chef, is now supervising (and apparently, waiting tables a lot). He said that for a concept like what L'Auberge du 15 used to be, we should go to his new restaurant at the corner of Broca and Arago (l'Auberge du Roi Gradlon). He apparently also owns the new pizza to go place on bd Port Royal @ Berthollet, the one with "pizza de cuisiniers" and "desserts by Michalak ce con".
So, yet another restaurant I loved is gone, like they usually do. But this time it is not business failure or actual suicide or exhausted chef, so I guess it's OK.
That said, the 7 course menu I had two nights ago was pretty excellent, with an absolutely awesome pigeon and a legendary Saint Nectaire standing out (but everything was excellent). It's just that I miss a place that can perfectly cook a soup and a veal chop, without feeling the plate is a drawing board. O well.
Interesting Soup me pal, their new joint - L'Auberge du Roi - is also very pricey albeit good but a la carte - off the charts.
Sorry to get this news.
Oh well, there's always tmrw.