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Sep 25, 2011 05:51 AM

Sorry - For Cafones Only [Il Mulino, Roslyn]

Premise: Celebrating a rare milestone in relative's life. 10 People for dinner--each very fortunate enough to have knowledge of and experience with good food.

BOTTOM LINE: Ridiculously expensive for bland surroundings, unintelligent service and "OK" food.

Surroundings: Cane chairs, really? My butt ached after 2 hours. The general decor was ho-hum and blah. No offer of black napkins for persons wearing dark clothing. Wine decanter (wine discussed below) laden with fingerprints. Service was attentive, but...

...Unintelligent: Asked for bottle of Barolo to be decanted and white wine served with apps/amuse bouche. What does he do? Immediately asks a guest if she'd like "red or white." Concept of wine breathing is lost on this guy. Who trained this fool? Asked a week in advance for menus without prices on them so guests wouldn't be put off by the gouging. No tengo. Never hear of it, don't have it, so now what.

"OK" food: Amuse bouche is a nice touch, when done well; this wasn't. generous chunks of what they called Parmigianno Reggiano was too cold when served. When the kitchen serves some kind of sauteed zucchini swimming in oil in this course, what does that portend for the rest of the meal? Hideously salty mussels appetizer! But everything else was good--not great, but good.

Sorry folks, I've read all the reviews on Zagat's and Open Table and if you think this is the best Long Island has to offer, you're sadly mistaken and my title says it all.

$1300 for 10 people, 3 bottles of wine, an audacious plate charge for cake, with tip.

Il Mulino - Long Island
1042 Northern Blvd, Roslyn, NY 11576

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  1. Can you explain your subject line to us?

    2 Replies
    1. re: Elisa515

      Cafone to me means unsophisticated and hillbilly-like. That's how I meant it. Suffice to say, if you think this is dining in the superlative on Long Island you're a cafone.

      1. re: Elisa515

        Cafone in Italiano means a "Boor". Someone without class.
        In all my journeys I have never heard of the black napkin thing.
        Not too far from Roslyn, just on the edge of the Queens/Nassau border is Arturo's. One of my all time favorite old style classy restaurants. Best Fra Diavolo sauce I have ever had.

      2. Yeah, unfortunately those types of joints aren't so rare. I've been to Bevanda in Great Neck; their prices and quality are decent.

        1 Reply
        1. re: Big_Salad

          Cafone means peasant I think, but these days implies gaudy, unsophisticated, not necessarily poor but quick to spend frivolously without regard for value (Vegas or Jersey Shore type).

        2. Is this part of the Il Mulino chain? The original in NYC was a great Italian but it has dumbed down for the masses now that it has opened so many locations. Ate at the one in Orlando and it was terrible.

          1. Unfortunately, Ital-American places passing themselves off as fine dining can have food no better than a local pizza parlor. As a matter of fact, some casual places probably turn out the best Ital Amer food of that type. '

            For fine dining, it's probably best to stick to New American or French category. Less risky.

            4 Replies
            1. re: menton1

              You're probably right, except for, say Felidia.

              1. re: wincountrygirl

                There are a multitude of Italian restaurants -- both in Manhattan and elsewhere in the area -- that are at least as good as , if not better than Felidia.

                1. re: roxlet

                  I don't doubt that at all. I was merely saying that there are high end Italian options out there.

              2. re: menton1

                I agree as well. Give me a Jean-Georges restaurant any day. How sad. And I agree with wincountrygirl about Felidia. That's where I wanted to celebrate Mom's 95th, but the logistics of getting everyone from Nassau to Manhattan at rush hour proved prohibitive. When I lived on LI I never worked, shopped or ate there for similar reasons.

                I did like Rialto in Westbury, but they changed hands and I wanted a safe haven. I picked wrong.

              3. Am I the only one puzzled by "No offer of black napkins for persons wearing dark clothing"? I've never heard of this practice. Maybe I'm a cafone!

                5 Replies
                1. re: Boswell

                  I'm not sure where you saw the napkin thing, but I have had the experience that when wearing dark clothing I leave with remnants of the white napkin on my pants.

                  1. re: wincountrygirl

                    Not a new practice. I live in Boston and NONE of the North End Italian restaurants do it, and most other fine dining establishments will have it if you ask for it, while some will offer it based on what you're wearing. The point of mentioning this above is based on the price to service ratio where one feels that value for price paid is relatively low, but more particularly the dichotomy between the white-tie attired waiters who don't know jack about wine service where moderate bottles are upwards of $110. Picky? Haughty? Hardly. Just give me value for the price I'm paying. Is that too much to ask?

                    1. re: Duspin

                      I think I was agreeing with you about Il Mulino. I was just curious about the napking thing.

                      1. re: wincountrygirl

                        It 's funny that this was brought up - I have seen this exactly once. It was last weekend at Le Cirque in Las Vegas. I don't think it's a common practice.

                        1. re: scarsdalesurprise

                          I've eaten at plenty of fancy pants places and never been offered a dark napkin... honestly, not something I'd consider in a review.