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Kin Shop - A wonderful neighborhood restaurant

f
fooder Sep 17, 2011 05:37 PM

As usual, full review with photos on the blog: http://ramblingsandgamblings.blogspot...

I cannot speak to its Thai "authenticity" as we did not try any spicy dishes, as well as the fact that the restaurant calls itself a "modern Thai" restaurant. Everything we had was delicious, although we did not have anything that I would call truly spectacular (my bar is set very high). With its tasty, well-executed food, surprisingly reasonable prices, and interesting interpretations, Kin Shop, in my view, is a wonderful neighborhood restaurant definitely worth a visit.

Fried Pork & Crispy Oyster Salad with celery, peanuts, mint & chili-lime vinaigrette. I enjoyed this dish very much. Pork and oysters go well together, and the crunchy textures throughout livened my appetite. Surprisingly light and fit to be called a salad, despite fried pork and oysters.

Grilled Prawns with fresh lime & "phuket style" black pepper sauce. The prawns cost $4 each and had a wonderful grilled aroma. They're not particularly large for the price, but reasonable and well cooked.

Roasted Duck Breast & Red Curry with crispy roti, green mango, fresh herbs & tamarind water. The duck was cooked well, but the red curry didn't really do anything for me, and it was not a particularly special combination.

Braised Goat & Massaman Curry with fried shallots, purple yams, mustard greens & toasted coconut. I really really enjoyed this dish. The flavorful fork-tender braised goat went well with the comforting massaman curry. The accompaniments all worked well and this is a wonderful dish to eat over white rice.

Duck Confit Fried Rice (Can't find it on the online menu). Rice, however, does not come with entrees, and so I decided to order a side of duck confit fried rice. It was a pleasantly large portion for $10. The duck was rich in flavor and not dry at all, which is something that can easily happen with proteins in fried rice.

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Kin Shop
469 6th Ave, New York, NY 10011

  1. t
    tkny123 Jan 21, 2012 09:03 AM

    Terrible food. Nice server.

    Apps.
    Spicy Duck Laab Salad. Ok I guess.
    Squid Ink and Hot Sesame Oil Soup. I like this kind of thing, but just no real reason to order this.

    Entrees
    Massaman: Braised Goat. Fatty no flavor. Curry too sweet, jumbled.
    Grilled Prawns. Blah. $4 each is silly.
    Fried Brussel Sprouts. Over-fried. Can do this at home.
    Jasmine Rice. Way too dry. Serving rice this bad is unforgiveable.

    Wine
    Cheverny Sauv Blanc. Its a decent table wine, $15/bottle retail I buy for home. At $10/glass, the markup seems a lot higher than I thought was normal.

    We went to Perilla when it first opened a bunch of times and liked it. I don't know what happened here. They'll prob have to try a full reboot eventually.

    For Thai in NY, I'll stick with Lotus of Siam and wait to try Pok Pok. Think Sripraphai is way over-rated on CH. Yet to try Zaab and other contenders.

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    Kin Shop
    469 6th Ave, New York, NY 10011

    3 Replies
    1. re: tkny123
      s
      Simon Jan 21, 2012 09:27 AM

      sorry you had a poor experience...i've been Kin Shop at least 20 times and i've never had a bad meal: the food has been consistently excellent...i've had almost all the dishes you mention and they've been delicious every time...i will agree w/ you on the rice though: Kin Shop seems bizarrely unable to cook rice properly...

      re: wine markup: that price ratio from retail/glass-in-restaurant is average or even on the low side: at 4 and a half glasses per bottle, that's paying 3x retail...not sure where you're going to find wine for less than 10/glass in a nice place in the W. Village...

      1. re: Simon
        t
        tkny123 Jan 22, 2012 09:15 AM

        20 times in 1 year? What other Thai restos do you like?
        The Goat gets a lot of props. I have no idea why.

        I am no expert on wine markups. But I thought 2-2.5x WHOLESALE price is a common markup. If a bottle is $18 retail at a wine shop, it must be a lot less at wholesale to the wine shop. Let's assume its $10 wholesale and Kin Shop buys its wine at wholesale. Then Kin Shop's revenue is $45/bottle ($10 * 4.5 glasses), a 4.5x markup. If I am wrong somewhere, pls let me know, I'm curious.

        In contrast, I think the wines by the glass at Locanda Verde must be a much lower markup bc they always taste fantastic and only cost at $12-14/glass ($60/bottle). If I could buy their bottles at retail for only $20/bottle (if 3x markup), I'd buy cases non-stop, no q's asked!!

        1. re: tkny123
          s
          Simon Jan 22, 2012 11:35 AM

          howdy...i don't consider Kin Shop to be a Thai restaurant, but rather a NY chef's riff on Thai ingredients, executed very well (when i first went there, i didn't think i was going to like it, as i'm very picky about all things Thai, and i was surprised that it worked so well for me)...

          With the exception of the Isaan food at Zaab-Elee, i won't eat any actual Thai food in Manhattan as i think it's all terrible (almost every Thai person you meet in NYC will say the same thing: i've had conversations w/ Thai bartenders at many Manhattan places where they've conceded that, w/ the exception of the free staff lunch, they'd never ever eat the food at the place where they work)...if i want non-Isaan Thai food i go to Queens, w/ Ayada being my current fav...

          When i moved back to NYC this past year, i went to Kin Shop many times solo in the winter and spring and ate at the bar (especialy before/after hearing jazz at the Village Vanguard), which is why the yearly total is so high...these days i go there less often (maybe once a month), and usually w/ friends...everyone i've ever taken there has been quite happy...

          But it's a subjective thing, so i'm not saying you should/shouldn't like it :) but don't expect a reboot, as it's quite popular in it's current incarnation...

          oddly, i've never had the goat even though it's one of their standards...i've seen it and it does look a bit fatty for my taste...

    2. s
      SouthToTheLeft Nov 25, 2011 09:26 PM

      Thanks very much for the report, I'm excited to try the duck confit fried rice!

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