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Paris 4 Day List Opinions

m
mikey8811 Sep 17, 2011 02:11 AM

Hi

Hope you guys don't think "not another one of those lists again". I have read the boards and mostly the advice of Souphie, Parigi & Delucca Cheesemonger plus the now MIA John Talbott. Will be in Paris for 4 days and have the following booked:

Sun
So far blank am considering La Fontaine De Mars or Les Cocottes or Cafe Constant, any suggestions appreciated - not keen on the latter 2 as can have the lunch prix fixe for less on a weekday.

Mon
Lunch - looking for a set lunch (Au Passages from Spring alums, I understand to be good value) or light eat ie. Croque Madame (where?) or crepes (Breizh or Avant Comptoir?)

Dinner - La Regalade St Honore ( what to order? comments appreciated as have heard of mixed experiences)

Tues

Lunch - looking for a set lunch deal
Dinner - Chez L'Ami Jean (what to order? comments appreciated as have heard of mixed
experiences)

Wed
Lunch - looking for a set lunch deal
Dinner - Chez Denise (was thinking of ordering the foie gras & cote de boeuf but will be solo so can't do latter. Any other suggestions?)

Will trawl for patisseries and boulangeries like Herme, Genin, Poilane (where are the sandwiches good?), Angelina for Mont Blanc and Africaine hot choc. Where to find the best pain au chocolat, Paris Brest & other pastry or cake types?

Other restarants I thought of include

Bistro Paul Bert (best steak frites?)
Itineraires
Epigramme
Comptoir Du Relais (in lieu of Chez Denise if I can get in for the tasting menu dinner)
Ledoyen or Le Cinq for lunch splurge
Frenchie (if possible?)

Your thoughts & suggestions much appreciated.

Thanks

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  1. Laidback RE: mikey8811 Sep 17, 2011 04:44 AM

    There are 3 new places that I have tried and liked the past 2 weeks; Sola in the 5th; Septime in the 11th and Neva in the very top of the 8th behind Gare St. Lazare. Also if you like Basque cuisine, we enjoyed Pottoka in the 7th, the new restaurant by the owners of Fables de la Fontaine.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Laidback
      r
      rrems RE: Laidback Sep 17, 2011 08:06 PM

      Laidback,

      I have reservations at Neva in 3 weeks. Can you tell me more about your experience there? It seems to be a very highly regarded new place and I am really excited about trying it. Also planning dinner at La Bigarrade and lunch at Kei. Any thoughts on these?

      1. re: rrems
        Laidback RE: rrems Sep 18, 2011 01:37 PM

        Neva features an attractive grey and black decor with large mirrors, globe lights, comfortable upholstered chairs, pleasant service, nicely spaced tables and a female chef who was #2 to Frédérick Robert at La Grande Cascade. We enjoyed the well prepared raviolis de gambas and ris de veau crousti-fondant pictured below.

         
         
        1. re: Laidback
          r
          rrems RE: Laidback Sep 18, 2011 06:23 PM

          Thanks very much. These dishes look great. I will report back after our dinner there.

    2. Delucacheesemonger RE: mikey8811 Sep 17, 2011 05:17 AM

      All my opinion, L'Ami Louis is my fav Cotes du Boeuf but big enough for three. Severo is considered to have an excellent steak frites. If you can get into Comptoir for dinner and not staying at the on premises hotel, good for you, l have not been successful in 7 years. Ledoyen or Le Cinq for splurge lunch, first perfect food but haughty, Cinc almost as good and you will feel like a prince. Do the original Regalade in the 14th, not Honore. Eat at CLAJ whatever they bring you. Their whole foie gras is my favorite anywhere but size of football.

      23 Replies
      1. re: Delucacheesemonger
        p
        plafield RE: Delucacheesemonger Sep 17, 2011 08:19 AM

        With those dinners (CLJ, Denise, LRSH) I'd do a ligher lunch every day. Croques, salads, sandwiches, pastries etc. Unless you have enormous eating capacities,which you might, a 3 course set lunch menu will burn you out for dinner, especially if you also snack on pastries.

        I agree that the original Regalade in the 14th is MUCH better than the LRSH. You can't really go wrong with anything on the menu there. If you go to the St Honore location, the best bets are the chalkboard specials, larger meats roasted and usually for 2. The whole roast duck was delicious, but not as good as the one at the original. The soups are generally delicious at both places. If it's on the menu, I would never pass up the pork belly but I've only eaten it at the original so can't say if it's as good at SH.

        I don't agree that everything at CLJ is fabulous. We had a rather disappointing meal there but we've also had unbelievably fantastic food there. I think he also does best with the larger cuts of meat, cotes, whole ducks and of course that ridiculously fabulous flaming whole foie.

        Anything at Denise will be huge for one person.

        For pastry/bread check out Soup's google map: http://tinyurl.com/3m32hmm
        I also really like this guys Paris pastry blog: http://www.parispatisseries.com/categ...

        1. re: plafield
          m
          mikey8811 RE: plafield Sep 17, 2011 12:03 PM

          Thanks guys. I seem to be seeing here that the original La Regalade is better than the more conveniently located Saint Honore one. Searching earlier reviews say that the new version is better. Have standards at the new one dropped and the original one risen?

          Also, do the pastry, bread shops do sandwiches? If so, which are the outstanding ones?

          I'll take your advice and not eat too much during the day for want of spoiling dinner ;)

          1. re: mikey8811
            m
            mikey8811 RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 03:46 AM

            Hi

            I've added Au Deux Amis and Septime to my list for quick light lunches.

            So overall now my list looks like

            Sun
            So far blank am considering La Fontaine De Mars or Les Cocottes or Cafe Constant, any suggestions appreciated - not keen on the latter 2 as can have the lunch prix fixe for less on a weekday.

            Mon
            Lunch - Au Passage

            Dinner - La Regalade St Honore

            Tues

            Lunch - Septime
            Dinner - Chez L'Ami Jean (what to order? comments appreciated as have heard of mixed
            experiences)

            Wed
            Lunch - something light and on the go
            Dinner - Chez Denise

            Will the places I have listed have ris de veau, andouillette as specialties? These are my favourite items and difficult to find in Asia where I'm from. If not please suggest where to go for these and I'll do the substitution accordingly. I believe Aux Lyonnaise does have these but reviews have not been good as far as attitude and service goes.

            Also, where to go for ice cream? Jacques Genin, Christian Constant, Berthillon?

            Suggestions for Sunday lunch if I go to Fontaine De Mars for dinner please?

            I will now try to fill in the sightseeing around this.

            Thanks again

            1. re: mikey8811
              mangeur RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 06:04 AM

              I don't consider Septime a quick light lunch. Three or four beautifully crafted plates served over the course of an hour and a half.

              You will find andouillette served simply and good at Denise.

              1. re: mangeur
                m
                mikey8811 RE: mangeur Sep 18, 2011 06:29 AM

                Thanks. I had my heart set on the cote de boeuf with marrow at Denise as I was originally going with a friend who had to cancel. There's no chance they'll serve it for one right? I haven't read of people ordering andouillette at Denise (is it a starter or a plat?) - what are the other dishes they do well as an option for a main course?

                Thanks

                1. re: mikey8811
                  mangeur RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 07:08 AM

                  I ordered andouillette as a plat at Denise. A man seated next to us was served the most gorgeous rognons in mustard.

                  1. re: mangeur
                    m
                    mikey8811 RE: mangeur Sep 18, 2011 07:44 AM

                    Man, that is tempting - if only they would do an offal plate with brains, kidneys, liver and andouille. Do you recommend the foie gras de maison at Denise as a starter? The other plat I would have had was the onglet steak.

                    1. re: mikey8811
                      Delucacheesemonger RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 11:11 AM

                      Foie gras at Denise is froid not chaud as other preps mentioned were. Their tripe is huge and legendary, Liver is a special 2 times a week and is quite good as well.
                      Other very good things there are hachis parmentier, stuffed cabbage, steak tartare and my always go to dish morue auvergnate. For starters their hot fish pate is excellent but l can eat just so much. Chocolate mousse is great as well for dessert. Do not know when you will be there but contact me at address on info page and might go with you. Am in Paris now.

                      1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                        m
                        mikey8811 RE: Delucacheesemonger Sep 18, 2011 07:35 PM

                        Delucca Cheesemonger

                        Thanks. I sent you an e-mail.

                      2. re: mikey8811
                        mangeur RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 11:30 AM

                        FWIW, here is a menu from a couple of years ago. The choices don't change much but the prices probably will have.

                         
                        1. re: mangeur
                          m
                          mikey8811 RE: mangeur Sep 18, 2011 12:33 PM

                          Thanks mate, I had to squint to see the items but on it, calf liver, tete de veau, onglet steak, andouillette and pied the cochon caught my eye - but as Delucca Cheesemonger says, there's only so much one can eat.

                          Just a thought, on my Sunday option La Fontaine De Mars, just had a look at the menu and it seems very similar to Chez Denise - they have andouillette, boudin noir and a host of other meaty dishes. Which are as good as those at Denise so I can do them there instead and which should i definitely do at Denise?

                2. re: mikey8811
                  k
                  kerosundae RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 12:36 PM

                  for ice cream:
                  Genin has none.
                  I like Constant, though I like Mary's gelato better for the texture. The 2 are my favorite in terms of flavor; both are equally intense and high quality. Mary is not the stereotypical, warm and welcoming Italian though, so I haven't been back since my first try, I just felt like me giving her business annoyed her.
                  I was intensely disappointed with Raimo's ice cream.

                  People rave about Genin's Paris-Brest. Obviously his mille-feuille is a must-try. I love his lime tarte, lime-basil is my favorite but the DH thinks the basil is a distraction, and he just came out with a lime-orange tarte which is great too. ephemere passion is amazing. Oh and he just finished his recipe a couple of days ago for a coffee cream puff, which was the best coffee-flavored anything I've ever tasted. the new ginger caramel is really really good too. oh and each of his one-serving apple tarte has about 3 apples in it and is the best ever. I hope you're not by yourself and have enough stomachs to also share a raspberry tarte, each raspberry hole has raspberry coulis shot into it; I'm salivating just thinking about it even though I just had one last night and another this morning.

              2. re: plafield
                m
                mikey8811 RE: plafield Sep 18, 2011 07:04 AM

                Plafield,

                Is it the pork belly with lentils you are referring to at LR?

                Also, does the large flaming whole foie incur a very high supplement?

                The other place I was thinking of going to for foie was Domaine Linitillac - it seems to be a budget option. Any thoughts?

                1. re: mikey8811
                  p
                  plafield RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 08:52 AM

                  The original LR changes their menu constantly, chalkboard only, so they don't always have pork belly and when they do it isn't always prepared the same way so yes, sometimes with lentils, sometimes not. It's fabulous no matter how they prepare it. But super rich. One time I had the roasted whole foie for an entree and the pork belly for my plat, followed by the riz a laut. The only time I ever actually felt ill from too much rich food and I literally could not eat ANYTHING the entire next day.

                  The flaming foie at CLJ isn't part of the set menu so "supplement" is not the correct term. It's on the carte (as often the best dishes are) and I'm sorry but I don't remember the cost. LR only has a 3 course set menu and there are supplements for some dishes. CLJ has a menu as well as a carte. Sometimes there are items on the menu that have a supplement but usually the more super premium things are only on the carte. That said, the time I had a less than average meal there, the most delicious things went to the person who ordered the 35E menu and an entree of razor clams off the carte were terrible and my plat of dover sole blah, especially compared to the AMAZING sole I had at Denise. I also love the foie de veau at Denise. But again, the portion was so huge there was no way to even come close to finishing it.

                  Personally, I wouldn't do Septime the same day as CLJ. But I couldn't do Septime for lunch with any of your dinner choices. I have to hope you have a bigger capacity for rich food than I do. While Septime's food may be lighter than your diner choices, I don't think it's actually light. And it's still multi course. Please make sure you report back whatever you do!

                  1. re: plafield
                    Delucacheesemonger RE: plafield Sep 18, 2011 11:13 AM

                    Foie gras at CLAJ in the spring was 80 euros and enough for three.

                    1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                      m
                      mikey8811 RE: Delucacheesemonger Sep 18, 2011 12:35 PM

                      I guess it is (less of than others) a crapshoot but how much does ordering ala carte at CLAJ cost?

                    2. re: plafield
                      souphie RE: plafield Dec 6, 2011 09:13 PM

                      Dude, you can do Septime the same meal as CAJ because they serve so little food.

                  2. re: plafield
                    Laidback RE: plafield Sep 19, 2011 07:37 AM

                    " I seem to be seeing here that the original La Regalade is better than the more conveniently located Saint Honore one. Searching earlier reviews say that the new version is better. Have standards at the new one dropped and the original one risen?"

                    I can understand your confusion with all the varying opinions, because the only real difference I have noticed between the two is the better spacing at the new one. Coincidentally, we had the sous chef at La Regalade prepare a dinner for a few friends at our apt Saturday night and I asked her about the different comments and she didn't understand the difference...same purveyors, Doucet(who she respects enormously) spends time in both places, essentially the same menu, same terrine...go figure.

                  3. re: Delucacheesemonger
                    s
                    suggie RE: Delucacheesemonger Dec 5, 2011 03:09 PM

                    Hi - Just wanted to say that when Delucacheesemonger describes the foie gras as the size of a football he is not exaggerating. I went last year and it was literally the size of a football. Please do not share this amongst two people. Of course the first few bites were delicious but we tried to finish it, you can imagine how we felt afterwards. I think it was about 80 euros at CLAJ. We have not been able to eat or look at foie gras the same as before this experience because we OD'd on it. Get it if you are going with a large group.

                    1. re: suggie
                      Parigi RE: suggie Dec 5, 2011 03:20 PM

                      Last time chez l'Ami Jean I actually asked for what my French gf calls a baggie dog to take home the big remaining chunk of foie gras, LOL. Mario and Stephane were very happy to comply.

                      1. re: Parigi
                        mangeur RE: Parigi Dec 5, 2011 03:54 PM

                        Obviously, you were never Girl Scout. "Be prepared" -> carry zip-locs. Not infrequently my husband says to me, "Wow, you really wolfed that steak/veal chop/other large chunk of protein." aka as The invisible swoop from plate to zip-loc!

                        1. re: mangeur
                          Parigi RE: mangeur Dec 5, 2011 04:16 PM

                          Il ne faut pas mourir bête !

                          1. re: Parigi
                            s
                            suggie RE: Parigi Dec 5, 2011 05:10 PM

                            I thought in France they do not allow take out. Otherwise I would have definitely brought it back. My heart could not let any of it go to waste so it all went in our bellies (most of it in my poor husbands belly as I kept saying "we CANNOT waste delicious precious foie gras. just a few more bites!").

                            Zip loc bags! Smart!! Will remember that for next time. :)

                  4. j
                    jaimecouchon RE: mikey8811 Sep 18, 2011 09:40 PM

                    We had a fantastic lunch at Chez L'Ami Jean in August, it was by far our favoite meal in Paris during our 10 day dining tour, we could not make much sense of the menu, so we just ordered the prix fixe for our table of four, there were two choices in each course, so it made a perfect fit for us, with a bottle of Beaujolais frais we enjoyed every plate more than the last, the rice pudding presentation is worht the trip, we found the whole program very affordable fo rthe quality and left very satisfied.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: jaimecouchon
                      n
                      Nyleve RE: jaimecouchon Sep 19, 2011 01:32 PM

                      Can I be so crass as to ask approximately what the meal cost?

                      1. re: Nyleve
                        m
                        mikey8811 RE: Nyleve Oct 15, 2011 10:11 AM

                        Just a quick note to say thanks to all who replied with much valued feedback. Unfortunately, I had to cancel my trip to Paris due to a work issue. However, I do hope to make a trip soon and will reuse the same itinerary composed with the suggestions obtained here, hopefully in the not too distant future.

                        Thanks again, this has been one of the best Chowhound boards over the years.

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