Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis, Knightsbridge, London
- limster Sep 15, 2011 05:05 PM
Wondrous abrupt crunches from perfectly sized croutons were what made the marinated sardines exceptional for me, the textural contrast, after the two kinds of mild sweetness from tomatoes and grapes, and the acidity and oil, had made their mark on the sardines, mellowing its natural fishy nature without compromising its flavour much.
Stuffed cabbage was good enough, a lode of chopped veal, foie gras and ceps, mingled into a meaty savoury filling. Topped with the same crunchy croutons again, and bursts of currants to balance the earthy filling. Very good but a step short of great, the filling could have been a tiny tiny shade more moist, and the leaves of cabbage, skillfully wrapped, were ever so slightly dry, If full and juicy, they could have provided a verdant bite that would provide another layer of contrast. It's a challenging dish, and hard to get all the textures and moisture right; they didn't falter, but there's room for improvement.
Fresh mild cherries, pleasant on the dessert tart, filled with custard, over a dense crumbly base that would be better if it was slightly thinner.
More here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/770569