Khao San Restaurant, Notting Hill, London
Not to be mistaken with Kaosarn, the place in Brixton Village.
Good meaty flavour in the grilled Isarn sausages, short fibres of meat densely packed and mingled with herb to deepen the flavour. Standard accompaniments of roasted peanuts and chilli, and also shredded cabbage and carrot (iirc) for contrast form their sharp vegetable flavours.
The soft shell crab, while not as refined and technically involved, is as multifaceted, and its contrasts and complements as well composed as any dish I've had at The Ledbury nearby. Crispy battered soft shell crab (with the faintest trace of grease) contrasts with gorgeously soft yet rich scrambled eggs, both egg and crab enhanced by a gentle curry sauce, in the same way a curry katsu is delicious. To these multiple textures are added the judicious juicy crunch of vegetables in the scrambled egg, from bell peppers, to barely translucent white onion with its touch of sweetness, to the airy lightness of Chinese celery that really lifted the dish and countered the richness from the deep frying. Lots of moving parts in taste and texture that work together seamlessly and naturally. For maximal enjoyment, this has to been quickly consumed, before the the wetness penetrates the crab.
Worth exploring the menu further. On the corner of Chepstow Road and Westbourne Park Road.
127 Ledbury Rd, Kensington, England W2 5, GB