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Venice Dining in Sept/Oct

s
steviegene Sep 11, 2011 10:01 AM

Hello all,

My husband and I are going to Venice in a few weeks for a much needed break from the kids.
We are looking for some restaurant recommendations, and I've been searching the boards getting more and more confused!

We are in our mid 30s and like things moderately fancy, but not stuffy. I will eat & enjoy almost anything and especially love seafood. My husband is generally a meat-eater. Since we're away from the kids we are looking for delicious food and romantic places (although somewhere fun & lively one night would be nice too). A view is not important as I think it will be cool outside in October, and we paid extra for a balcony in our hotel which we expect to use at cocktail hour! We want to stay somewhere in the $100 - $150 for dinner for the two of us (of course we wouldn't argue with a cheaper place as long as its nice)... we would order multiple courses, but only one of us will be drinking.

Any ideas appreciated!

  1. d
    DaleJ Sep 23, 2011 10:51 AM

    I've had several good experiences at Avogoria, at the west end of Dorsoduro, over the past few years. Yet it doesn't seem to get any mention. Any comments?

    2 Replies
    1. re: DaleJ
      jen kalb Sep 23, 2011 11:29 AM

      heres a link for Avogaria (note spelling). Do they still have the Puglian flavor?

      -----
      Avogaria
      Calle dell’Avogaria 1629, Dorsoduro, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT

      1. re: jen kalb
        c
        clarkgranny Sep 23, 2011 01:26 PM

        Thank you both for this other restaurant choice: Avogaria. We were in Puglia last year and only want Venetian food during our stay. Will also be in Bologna for two days but got enough advice about places to eat from the board already. I try to eat the local cuisine as much as possible.

        -----
        Avogaria
        Calle dell’Avogaria 1629, Dorsoduro, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT

    2. s
      steviegene Sep 13, 2011 10:59 AM

      oops, meant to mention one more thing....

      We are staying in Castello. Will any of these places be very difficult to find? I've heard Venice is notoriously hard to navigate. Any suggestions

      18 Replies
      1. re: steviegene
        PBSF Sep 13, 2011 06:43 PM

        Generally, Venice is not a night city; except for a couple of area (around Bancogiro and da Rioba), it gets quiet by 10pm. 8pm should be fine for dinner. Foreign visitors tend to dine earlier.
        Venice proper is divided into 6 sestieres. Castello is the largest of the sestiere; stretching from near San Marco all the way to the end of Sant Elena. Most visitors stay just north or east of San Marco. Venice is 'notoriously" hard to navigate: so true. Nothing is on a grid and there are so many dead end streets that leads to nowhere or to water. To complicate things, there are about 8 different names for 'street' and same name can crop up in different sestieres. Signs are not always visible. Most portable maps are too small to be useful except in a very vague sense. One strategy is to stay on the two large thorough fares that connect the central areas; one goes from Ferrovia to Rialto Bridge to Piazza San Marco, The other is on the other side of the Grand Canal from the Rialto Market that winds with the G Canal through Cp San Polo, near the Frari, Cp San Barnabas, the Academia, Pegg G., Salute and Dogana. 80% of the visitors (and many locals) ply these two routes. It is bumper to bumper during the day. If you want to get place to place without getting lost, plan your route by the most direct and less windy off of these two main thoroughfare. Taking short cut is the easiest way to get lost which in Venice not bad at all. There are alway wonderful surprises along the way.
        All the restaurants mentioned earlier are quite easy to find (by Venice standard). If the restaurant has a website, should have a map and direction. Or google and most will have direction/map. If you are staying in a hotel, the staff can map the route for you. Bancogiro on Campo San Giacomo; La Bitta just off Campo San Barnabas. F. Toscana is right on the main thoroughfare of Salizada San Giovanni Crisostomo are all no brainers. Boccadoro is off to the left of the same Salizada though this one is a bit tricky to find the small Campiello Widmana just off calle Widmana. Vini di Gigio on Fond San Felice is off the big wide Strada Nova. By the way, the corner of Strada Nova and Fond San Felice is La Cantina, one of the best bacaro. Da Rioba is on the big Fondamenta de la Miseriscordia. Al Covo is just off the big can't miss Riva degli Schiavoni. Just leave a little extra time in case one gets turned around. Don't worry about getting lost; wander and a landmark will appear. Just have a great time.

        -----
        La Bitta
        Dorsoduro 2753A, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Venezia 30123, IT

        Da Rioba
        Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio, 2553, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

        Bancogiro
        Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, San Polo 122,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

        Al Covo
        Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

        Boccadoro
        Campiello Widmann,Cannaregio 5405a, Venice, Veneto , IT

        La Cantina
        Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

        San Giovanni
        Via San Giovanni, 36, Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna , IT

        1. re: PBSF
          s
          steviegene Sep 14, 2011 05:36 AM

          Thanks again, this really is so wonderfully helpful!

          Two more questions if your patience will hold. Our last night in Venice is also my husband's birthday, so would be worthy of a splurge / special place.... would you recommend Al Covo?

          Also, as Im searching the boards two names keep coming up - Alle Testiere and Antiche Carampane. Any insights on these two places and how they would fit into our requiremnts? The pictures of the places look nice, reviews seem to be good, but websites don't offer any info on prices, so I don't know if they're way out of our budget.

          Thanks again for your help!!

          -----
          Antiche Carampane
          Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

          Al Covo
          Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

          Alle Testiere
          Calle del Mondo Novo,Sestiere Castello,5801, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

          1. re: steviegene
            PBSF Sep 14, 2011 08:38 AM

            It is difficult for me to recommend a particular restaurant for your husbands birthday. It comes down to what specifics you and him want. Al Covo is probably the nicest of all around restaurant in terms of ambience, service and a varied menu. Alle Testiere and Antiche Carampane have better seafood (both are ALL seafood place, meaning NO meat or poultry). Alle Testiere is a very small and tightly packed osteria, Antiche Carampane a little less pack inside and a few outside tables on a quiet calle which is quite nice but no canal view. It is also very difficult to fine. All depends what you are looking for.
            The links below should give you a sense of Al Covo, Alle Tesetiere and Antiche Carampane. Lots of posts on them, including my opinions. Just hit the link and the info is there. Al Covo's website have prices; Alle Testiere and Antiche Carampane are similar in price.
            http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/806504 (this thread has prices for some popular places
            http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/798540
            http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/801959
            I stand by my earlier comment: splurge on one meal than cut back on another by going to a simpler place. Might share or order less courses on the next meal. And if you are not going south to Rome/Naple, go to a pizzeria in Venice. Some are not bad: Nono Risorto has a nice garden and simple antipasti also. Two can eat for less than 30 euro. Another is Terraza de Casin dei Nobili (not their more humble Pizzeria Casin dei Nobili) on the Zattere, similar in price with a great view. Or the more upscale Il Refolo. It has wonderful outside seating in a small campo. Share an antipasto for about 15 euro, then a pizza for another 15. Expensive for a pizzeria but nice setting, good ingredients, etc..For me, it nothing worst than having four blah meals just because I want to keep each on within a budget. From my experience, after the fact, one never regret spending an extra 20 euro on a special occasion. Venice is not a world class dining city. Except for a couple of very expensive restaurants, don't hope for any life changing meal or total firework. Most recommended are just nice all around restaurants. Like any restaurant, it can have an off day. Just have to roll with it and enjoy your time. Venice is just expensive and no help with the current exchange rate if one is spending US$.

            -----
            Antiche Carampane
            Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

            Al Covo
            Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

            Alle Testiere
            Calle del Mondo Novo,Sestiere Castello,5801, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

            1. re: PBSF
              c
              clarkgranny Sep 21, 2011 02:17 PM

              PBSF: 1ST post ever on CHOW; My husband and I are arriving in Venice( first time) on Oct 19 and leaving Oct 22 for a week in Austria; then we drive back and spend a few nights in Bologna before heading home. I am a Hilton member and am staying on points. We will be at the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice on Giudecca 810. Is there a good restaurant for our first jet lagged night that is easy to find and get to near our hotel? It doesn't have to be next door or anything but I think we need to get adjusted and be wide awake for navigating the tricky streets of Venice, don't you?I will save our other 2 nights for splurges at the best places you recommend as money is not an issue. But I can't see spending a fortune when we are tired from a long trip from NY.

              1. re: clarkgranny
                PBSF Sep 21, 2011 10:02 PM

                The Giudecca has five or six restaurants all on the long side of the island (or on a canal just off of it) facing the Zattere. The other sides has nothing and much of it is off limits. Besides those, there are the two very expensive Ciprani property. I have only been to Atanella and Mistra which are in the middle of the strip (10 minute walk max from your hotel). The link below was a recent post on them.
                http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/801959
                Also ate at the inexpensive but decent alla Palanca but it only serves food during lunch. All have a good view of Venice. I can relate being jet lag but if there is any energy left, take the hotel shuttle (they also return) and head over to the Zattere for an early dinner. I heard from an earlier poster that the very popular Casin dei Nobili has opened a new place right on it called Terrazza del Casin dei Nobili. I have not been there but the food at their Casin is very well priced menu not bad. It is informal enough where one can just order one course, etc. The menu has a lot of variety including decent pizza. It has a killer view of the Giudecca and some. The Zattere is loaded with many inexpensive cafe type of places but they are more for outside seating and the view rather than the food. Any might be fine for something light to eat. Sorry that I am cannot be more help.
                The Molino Stuckey runs a terrific shuttle between the hotel, Zattere and San Marco. It will definitely help you get to the sights and restaurants without much trouble. The vaporetto is also convenience but it is expensive for short term visitors. By the way, don't miss going up to the Skyline Bar at the Molino Stucky. It has the best view of Venice: all the way from Marghera, the docks, Venice itself, the Lagoon with all the islands and also the Giudecca itself. Nothing like it anywhere else.

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                Mistra
                Calle Michelangelo.Sestiere Giudecca, 53, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT

                1. re: PBSF
                  c
                  clarkgranny Sep 22, 2011 06:28 AM

                  Thank you for the quick response.Since we land around noon maybe after a nap we will have the energy to go to the Zattere and stroll around as you suggest. But if not I will check out Atanella and Mistra. I also read that it was a good idea to take the vap for the whole Grand Canal tour on the first day as it is easy and a fun way to get used to Venice when you are tired. And then after dinner we will definitely go up to the bar. We need to try to get on Italy time and so this will be a good way to do so.

                  -----
                  Mistra
                  Calle Michelangelo.Sestiere Giudecca, 53, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT

                2. re: clarkgranny
                  livingvenice Sep 22, 2011 02:19 AM

                  You could also walk or take the vap down to the Zitelle stop (on Giudecca) to Figli delle Stelle (dinner til midnight), with a Venetian-Italian-Pugliese menu and a spectacular view, certainly good enough yet kicked back enough for a first night. Nice wines, too. (Make sure to get a discount vap pass in advance from VeniceConnected.com and pick it up from the machine at the airport or PRoma - this will allow unlimited vap access for the duration of your stay.)

                  Don'f forget too that you can take the shuttle every half hour from the hotel to the Zattere (two minutes). From there you have lots of choices: pizza ae Oche (simple stuff with a nice view), or walk down the rio terà Foscarini to the Accademia vap stop to the vap to add possibilities (one stop up to Ca' Rezzonico, for example, you'll have access to everything near the campo there, including the friendly ai 4 Feri and Pane Vino e San Daniele, fancier Oniga and ai Artisti along the fondamenta Toletta, and around the corner and over the ponte dei Pugni bridge, all of campo San Margherita (Orange is inexpensive, as is Pier DIckens pizza, and the candle-lit Bifora...).

                  But the shuttle will permit nothing if not a lovely stroll along the Zattere for an aperitivo at the Chioschetto, just look for the umbrellas and dark green kiosk along the wharf in the direction of the San Basilio vap stop...

                  (added Figli delle Stelle to the directory -- maybe it will show up in a bit?)

                  -----
                  Oniga
                  Campo San Barnaba, 2852, Venice, Veneto , IT

                  1. re: livingvenice
                    c
                    clarkgranny Sep 22, 2011 06:35 AM

                    Thank you for you help.We will try to get to the Zattere and look for your suggestions.We will keep this all very loose and not worry about reservations etc. I do have a question. Should be buy the vap pass ahead like you suggest or will our hotel shuttle be enough for the few days we are in Venice? I think we need the pass just to get to the hotel anyway. I always start with restaurants and then get to all the logistics. Just got a credit card with a chip so I am all set on that end. Next restauarns for the other 2 nights in Venice. Already got my reservations for the 2 nights and one lunch in Bologna ( going to Diana, Gigina, and da Gianni)

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                    Gigina
                    Via Henri Beyle Stendhal, 1, Bologna, Emilia-Romagna 40128, IT

                    1. re: clarkgranny
                      PBSF Sep 22, 2011 12:57 PM

                      Since this is a food related sight, have to keep off topics short somewhat food relevant. The Molino Stuckey shuttle runs frequently and the schedule is posted on all three stop points, therefore, you can plan your rides. Check if they do a complimentary airport hotel service. The single vaparetto ride for visitors is 6.50euro for 2 hours. Since your hotel is not in central Venice, I think it would be cheaper to buy the pass. The vaparetto is not always faster than walking but it does save energy and weary legs, especially for first time visitors who doesn't know the various short routes to get from place to place. Also you can use the pass to visit the outer islands. Fiaschetteria Toscana is near the Rialto Bridge on the San Marco side; it is about a 15 minute walk back to San Marco for your hotel shuttle. The #1 Vaparetto ride from Roma through the Grand Canal is definitely worth it. The complete ride to the Lido takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes depend on the traffic. Sadly, the #1 does not take you to the Giudecca.
                      Because our apartment is very centrally located in San Polo, we hardly ever take the vaparetto. We use the traghettos that takes us across the Grand Canal more often (half euro), It makes cheap substitute for a gondola ride; not as plush and no narrative or songs. One can shop at the Rialto market, take the traghetto over to Ca D'Oro for lunch at Alle Vedova or La Cantina in no time at all.

                      -----
                      Fiaschetteria Toscana
                      Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

                      La Cantina
                      Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

                      1. re: PBSF
                        c
                        clarkgranny Sep 22, 2011 01:11 PM

                        Thank you and in the future I will keep to food subjects. Your information really helps as some of this just isn't in my 3 guide books.We want to visit Murano and now I am trying to figure out how long we need to be there and should we plan on lunch there or come back to one of the other islands for lunch.Our first full day will be for San Marco main sites and between what you and all the others have contributed I can figure out lunch and dinner for this day. I just don't know how long to plan for Murano. If we go there and need time, is there a place for lunch? you recommend?

                        1. re: clarkgranny
                          PBSF Sep 22, 2011 01:47 PM

                          if it is my first time in Venice and my stay is two or three days, I would allow just the morning in Murano and come back to Venice for lunch where there are more choices. That is if one is not totally into the craft of glass blowing. There are some beautiful glass in Murano and the forni are interesting but one has to shift through so much kitsch and things. When I am entertaining visitors on a short visit, I try to do the big three, Murano Burano and Torcello in half day (back in Venice by mid afternoon). I have not dine out in Murano for so many years that I don't know what to recommend. Busa alla Torre is very reliable and gets good write up but it is fairly expensive for a full meal. In Burano, Da Romano is being notice again because it was featured in one of Anthony Bourdain's episode. Not a recommendation on my part. Torcello: pack a lunch. My Venetian friends haven't set foot on those islands in who knows when.

                          1. re: PBSF
                            c
                            clarkgranny Sep 22, 2011 01:57 PM

                            Ok I will do the morning in Murano and come back for lunch. I now will start seriously figuring out restaurants. Thank you so much!

                            1. re: clarkgranny
                              livingvenice Sep 22, 2011 02:16 PM

                              If you end up eating on Murano, you could try the traditional favorite Bisatei; Busa alla Torre has a lovely campo and a colorful owner. Coming back from Murano is only 12 minutes to Fondamente Nove and then you have all of Cannaregio eateries handy from there.

                              PBSF, I wonder at how you could do three islands in a half-day! Burano and Torcello (which I would prefer over Murano for a short stay if the weather's fine) still fill a whole day for me, and I know where I'm going. :)

                              1. re: livingvenice
                                PBSF Sep 22, 2011 02:25 PM

                                Try to emulate the Venetians, I walk fast and as a reluctant tour guide to all my visiting friends, that is the time I allot for them. I get them to the Fond Nove by 8am.

                                1. re: PBSF
                                  livingvenice Sep 23, 2011 07:04 AM

                                  You are a better host than I: I send them off with a list of to-dos and how-tos ("stay to the right") for the day, and then schedule aperitivi and dinner... ;)

                          2. re: clarkgranny
                            s
                            steviegene Sep 23, 2011 11:29 AM

                            clarkgranny,

                            If you are looking for more logistical info the Europe Forum on Fodors.com has been immeasurably helpful in planning my trip.

                            http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/

                            1. re: steviegene
                              c
                              clarkgranny Sep 23, 2011 01:23 PM

                              Steviegene, Thank you I will look at site this weekend. Have fun on your trip

                3. re: steviegene
                  livingvenice Sep 14, 2011 12:07 PM

                  For your birthday dinner wanted to suggest both Anice Stellato on the Fondamenta della Sensa and the Orto dei Mori on the campo dei Mori -- but they're both closed on Tuesday.

                  Do add them to your listed of possibilities, even though they're not right in the Castello neighborhood (could be quite or not so far depending on where in Castello you are).

                  Both are romantic and charming, and the dishes are excellently done -- you wouldn't be disappointed. Just to add to your confusion....

                  -----
                  Anice Stellato
                  Cannaregio, 3272, Venezia , IT

            2. s
              steviegene Sep 13, 2011 10:56 AM

              Wow! PBSF, this is more than I could have asked for ... thank you so much for your thoughtful and detailed response! Some of the places you mentioned certainly fit the bill (bancogiro looks right up our alley) and I will definetly spend some time researching the choices you suggested. Thank you though for taking the time to give me such a great answer, it is much appreciated from a busy mama trying to plan her escape!

              One more question... what is a good reservation time? I know Italy tends to eat later than we do in the States, does 8pm seem reasonable?

              1. s
                steviegene Sep 12, 2011 11:23 AM

                Thank you all for your detailed responses!

                To add a little more info... we will be in Venice from a Saturday-Tuesday. And Tuedsay night is my husband's birthday, so wanted to go somewhere extra nice then. In terms of romance we like somewhere where we can get a good meal, some friendly service that isn't so stuffy that we feel out of place, enjoy a somewhat quiet place (somwhere that wouldn't have much of a kid-crowd would be great)... a cozy atmosphere, I don't know, what is romance anyway?! And I didn't realize it was quite so expensive -- a lot of the restaurant websites don't list prices. Our budget is somewhat flexible, although I like PFSB's suggestion of splurging some nights and going more reasonable others.

                So, does everyone think that making reservations in advance is smart or even necessary? Or should I just go with a list and take it from there?

                I will try to do some more research on these boards -- although my time to do that is somewhat limited with two toddlers around!! Thanks again!

                4 Replies
                1. re: steviegene
                  PBSF Sep 12, 2011 02:43 PM

                  Sunday and especially Monday are the typical closing days for many restaurants, therefore, plan accordingly.
                  Since there are so few children left in Venice proper and visitors with children do not generally dine in most recommended places on this board, you won't have to worry about the kid-crowd. Since most trattorias/osterias are lively and somewhat cramped, will have to make some compromises. Outside seating will help with this. That will definitely rule out Alle Testiere. Some possibilities:
                  Al Covo (open all weekend and Monday): a good all around restaurant; a good mix in the menu that will satisfy your meat eating husband. The cooking is very good, including nice desserts. The service is friendly and better than most trattorias. Unlike most trattorias, the total ambience has a more put together look. There is a few outside tables but I don't find the campo anything special.
                  Bancogiro (closed Monday) it is a stand-up bacaro on the ground floor, dining alcoves on the second as well as a series of outside table on the loggia right in front of the Grand Canal. The alcoves are somewhat cramp and it is lively but the lighting and the low ceiling gives it a 'romantic and intimate" feel. The short menu is mostly seafood but there are a couple of choices on each category to satisfy non-seafood eaters. Moderately priced.
                  Boccadoro (closed Monday): all seafood with a small menu of very well prepared food; not as expensive as Alle Testiere or some of the other top seafood places. The decor is simple modern and does not have a cramp trattoria feel. There are tables here and there that give a sense of intimacy. The service is informal and friendly. There are a few tables outside on a quiet campo. This is my idea of a romantic restaurant without being over the top.
                  Da Rioba (closed Monday): a good all around trattoria; there is a good simple steak typically serve with arugula (don't expect aged beef a la Peter Lugar); inside seating is trattoria like but outside tables right on the Fondamenta is cozy and one can see the canal miles on. The service is very friendly. If you can't get an outside table or too cold, I would probably skip this place. We seem to get the same wonderful waiter whenever we sat outside. He was definitely a big plus.
                  Fiaschetteria Toscana (open all weekend and Monday): this is probably the best and most consistent traditional Venetian restaurant. The menu is large with a good choices in each category. Plenty of non-seafood items (beef, veal). The service is spot on if a little formal. It warms up once they know you love good food. The ground floor dining room consists of small sections, giving it somewhat of a intimate feel. The wine lists is one of the best in Venice including some good wines by the glass. Not expensive considering the quality. There is a good four course prix fixe menu of 48 euros that is a good value. If it does not have a meat as the secondo, they will substitute if ask. Reserve for the ground floor; No matter what, DON'T get usher to the second floor dining room: bland and neglected.
                  Vini di Gigio (closed Mondays): small intimate trattoria with solid traditional food. The ambience is more low key and less noisy than most places. Very friendly staff. Excellent well-price wines including by the glass. Not the most exciting place but nice all around.
                  La Bitta (open Monday): no seafood; the meat courses are all very well prepared; good salads offer as antipasti; very friendly owners and staff. Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. The down side is it is small, always packed and noisy.
                  Gatto Nero gets mention on this board. It is a definite if you are visiting Burano and want a very good lunch.
                  If I was a first time visitors and given your parameters, I will stick my neck out and pick the four:
                  Boccadoro (convince your husband to forgo meat for one day), Da Rioba, either Al Covo or Fiaschetteria Toscana where the service ambience is a notch above most; Bancogiro or Vini di Gigio depending if you want a more fun/hip atmosphere or quieter and more traditional.
                  Please take a little time and do a search this board to check out what others say about them. Keep in mind that these are not world-class restaurants; there is always a chance for an off night.
                  Al Covo for a 3 course meal will stretch your budget a little but the others will fit but won't have much change left. There are others good places that one can eat for a little less but one is giving up something for that: quality of the ingredient, the ambience or the service.
                  Menu prices in Venice are somewhat different than what we are used to in the US. In most good places, the antipasti (frequently the most creative and best) and primi are only a few euros less than the secondi, whereas, in the US, the main course is generally two or even three times more than the first course. For example Fiachetteria Toscana: antipasti around 15 to 18 euro, primi 18, secondi 25. There is never a problem sharing a course and are never obligated to order every course.
                  Reservation: definitely for most places as they are small. You might be able to secure a table by walking in but that is very chancy. Not a good postition to be in when one doesn't know the city well and have to be looking for an alternative.
                  Cicchetti: eating cicchetti is one of the fun ritual in Venice. There are numerous bacari throughout the city that serve small simple food to go with glass of wine. Locals will use these places for late morning snack, a light lunch, or a late afternoon/early evening get together with friends. Whereas most restaurants are patronized by visitors in the evening, the bacari remind a big part of Venetian life. Many trattorias and osterias also have a front bar area that serve them but for me, they don't have the true ambience of eating them in a bacaro. Nothing is simpler and more Venetian than having a prosecco and munching on some cured meat and cheeses on an outdoor table than at La Cantina or Al Prosecco. Two very different bacari in two very different parts of the city. They are all inexpensive and welcoming for those on a budget which is most of us. Most are closed by 8pm and Sundays. If you are interested, there have been many earlier posts on them.

                  -----
                  La Bitta
                  Dorsoduro 2753A, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Venezia 30123, IT

                  Da Rioba
                  Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio, 2553, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

                  Bancogiro
                  Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, San Polo 122,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                  Al Covo
                  Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

                  Fiaschetteria Toscana
                  Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

                  Al Prosecco
                  Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, Santa Croce 1503, 30135, Venice, Veneto 30135, IT

                  Boccadoro
                  Campiello Widmann,Cannaregio 5405a, Venice, Veneto , IT

                  La Cantina
                  Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

                  1. re: PBSF
                    erica Sep 12, 2011 02:47 PM

                    PBSF: What a stupendous response! I will file this away for a future trip of my own. Reading these recent threads on Venice has spurred my desire to return to that compelling city. Many thanks.

                    1. re: PBSF
                      r
                      RCC Sep 13, 2011 11:17 AM

                      Great info. Thanks!
                      We plan on being in Venice during the New Year holidays and this is helpful.

                    2. re: steviegene
                      livingvenice Sep 14, 2011 11:51 AM

                      Just to add -- always reserve dinner. Always. None of these places are secrets, all have limited seating, even more so as it's a cooler and outdoor seating will be limited.

                      And, for the Cantina: not just cold cuts. For dinner you'll find lovely fish (except for Monday) raw and cooked; and serious meats from lamb to beef to succulent pork -- superb fare if not strictly traditionally Venetian. Great wine possibilities too.

                    3. PBSF Sep 11, 2011 10:24 PM

                      A few general comments that might help you sort things out and be less confused.
                      1. Venice dining scene is quite limited. There are no world class restaurants like those in other cities such as Rome, Milan, Paris, Barcelona, etc. It is also an expensive city to dine out.
                      What’s worth eating is traditional Venetian food that is mostly seafood based and the cooking being relatively simple. A diner that appreciates top quality ingredients precisely prepared will do better than one that prefers elaborate cooking technique, presentation and play on lots of ingredients. There are a few restaurants that represent the latter. Don’t look for places that serve food from other regions of Italy. Those exists only for indiscrimination visitors and serve dishes that many of us equate with ‘Italy”
                      3. Except for restaurants in expensive hotels that cater to an international crowd and a couple of high-end places, restaurants of all level and price are basically trattorias/osterias. That means lively ambience, simple décor with tables generally closely packed with informal but hopefully good service. What one paying for is the quality of the ingredients, the skill of the kitchen to cook the food precisely and maybe a little ambience.
                      4. Delicious and romantic: romantic can mean different thing to different people. Being in Venice itself is romantic; view, outdoor sitting (definitely not too cold for that in late/Sept-Oct.), quiet corner table might also fit. It is difficult to get the best of both and stay within your budget; a little compromising will be necessary. Some will trade some deliciousness for romantic while someone else might do the opposite. There are moderately price places that have outside seating with a canal view or in a quiet campo with if not great food, at least decent good. And others that have good food, moderately price but not what one thought as romantic. I personally prefer good food over view and afterward stroll Venice for romance.
                      Seafood for you and mostly meat for your husband: there are places such as Alle Testiere, Antiche Carampane, Boccadoro, Fontego dei Pescatore that is all seafood (no meat). With a couple of exceptions, most trattorias/osterias with a small menu will be seafood focus but usually have couple of non-seafood items in each course category of the menu. There are also a few places such as La Bitta and La Zucca that have no seafood but these are exceptions.
                      Fun and lively for one night: most good popular places will be lively; fun for the mid 30s, I would head over to Campi Bella Viena and San Giacomo, located in the area between the Rialto bridge and the Rialto market. Besides a couple of good places to eat (Bancogiro and Naranzaria both with outside tables on the loggia), there is usually a lively outside scene from the various bacari. Another area is in Cannairegio, around the Fondamenta de la Misericorida where the local club scene is. Da Rioba is pretty good with canal side seating. Another decent moderately price is the nearby ai Promessi Sposi on calle dell’Oca. Besides around San Marco (mostly tourists), the other lively area is Campo Santa Margherita with its mostly young university population.
                      Given all the above, the best trattorias will be a little more than your budget. Rather than keep each meal within a prescribed budget, my preference has always been splurge for certain meals then spend less on others by eating in simpler places and/or order one less course or sharing.
                      In addition to links suggested by an earlier poster, below are links to couple of recent posts on eating in Venice.
                      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/806504 (this thread has prices for some popular places
                      )http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/798540
                      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/801959
                      I would consider places such as Alle Testiere, Antiche Carampane, Al Covo, Fiaschetteria Toscana as expensive. Bancogiro as moderate. There are good simple places that one can eat for a little less but usually one sacrifice for some ambience: Alla Frasca, da Alberta, La Bitta,
                      I hope the above is helpful in making things less confusing. If you can be more specific such as how long is your stay, days of the week, what is romantic for you, etc and, also pin down on some specific choices after going through some earlier posts, I am sure you will get some good feedback/recommendations that will help you decide if a place will fit what you are looking for.

                      -----
                      La Zucca (aka alla Zucca
                      )Santa Croce, 1762, Venezia 30135, IT

                      La Bitta
                      Dorsoduro 2753A, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Venezia 30123, IT

                      Antiche Carampane
                      Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                      Da Rioba
                      Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio, 2553, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

                      Boccadoro
                      Campiello Widmann,Cannaregio 5405a, Venice, Veneto , IT

                      1. s
                        Sturmi Sep 11, 2011 11:54 AM

                        Two observations:

                        1. October is far from being cool in Venice. We always spend a few days in Venice in late November, and it is often possible to eat lunch in one of the many outdoor dining areas. And this is true all over town...

                        2. You pay for a view, that is true. The more view, the more you pay. This holds true for St.Marks place and the Canale Grande. But Venice is full of small, intimate piazzas with a nice view of a church or a palazzo. And there you can sit, right in the open, and get lunch, maybe even dinner, with a VERY romantic view and for a moderate price !!

                        And one more hint:
                        Forget all the famous places you read about here on CH: Venice has now - again - a large number of small cafes, bars, osterias, enotecas, trattorias, which might not be listed on all the internet boards, but give you a decent pizza, great pasta, nice panini and cichetti, and wonderful vino della casa. Prices in these local eateries are moderate and far from the outrageous prices you pay in the highend places.

                        We always take a pre-dinner aperitif on the Bar Mio on Frezzeria, where you can get the Aperol Spritz for Euro 2.50. We lunch in the Osteria a la Campana on Calle dei Fabbri, or - a quick bite without seating - at Bar Ai Nomboli or at Rosa Salva. For dinner we prefer Fiaschetteria Toscana, but this needs some knowledge about Venetian cuisine in order to enjoy their great seafood antipasti without remorse...

                        -----
                        Fiaschetteria Toscana
                        Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

                        1 Reply
                        1. re: Sturmi
                          a
                          allende Sep 11, 2011 01:08 PM

                          "For dinner we prefer Fiaschetteria Toscana, but this needs some knowledge about Venetian cuisine in order to enjoy their great seafood antipasti without remorse..."

                          Could you translate that into understandable English! Enjoy antipasto without remorse at Fiaschetteia Toscana?

                          -----
                          Fiaschetteria Toscana
                          Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

                        2. erica Sep 11, 2011 11:26 AM

                          I would suggest a thorough search of this board, as there have been reams of long threads about eating in Venice. Also, you should state your desired price bracket in euro, since not all posters here are cognizant of the dollar/euro exchange, and the prices in Venice, as you know, are in euro. Today's exchange puts you in the range of about 75-100 euro for two persons so would rule out the most pricey places.

                          You should be sure to take a look at the restaurant page for Venice as well as doing a search.

                          http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/785034

                          http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/557224

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