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Buenos Aires Trip Report

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Energy09 Aug 31, 2011 10:48 AM

Just spend 10 days in BA and had a lot of great meals. Overall the food was great. Highlight was obviously the steaks which were very reasonable and extremely well cooked.

I did a lot of research on this board before our trip, so thought I would share our findings!

For dinners, our meals included a bottle of wine, a cover charge (cubierto), dessert and water.

Lunch:

Bar de Rodi. Stumbled upon this local restaurant in Recoleta after touring the cemetery. Almost all locals, very old-school feeling. A father and son sitting next to us even asked us how we found the restaurant. We both got salads, roasted chicken and a glass of wine. Recoleta, $40

San Telmo Market chorizo stand. There are a couple of sausage stands/grills along Defensa during the Sunday San Telmo market. This stand didn't have a name, but it is in a parking lot. Amazing grilled chorizo sandwiches served with chimichuri sauce, lettuce and tomatoes. We went back the second Sunday to get more. San Telmo, $2.50 each

A Manger. Little shop in Palermo that sells apps, cheese, meats, breads, etc. We wanted some things for a picnic in one of the Palermo parks. Bought sun dried tomatoes, olives, goat cheese, chorizo. Yummy for a quick snack. Palermo Soho, $15

California Burrito Company. Stopped into the downtown location before going to Puerto Madera. Very so so burritos. Probably ok if you live in BA and are crazing mexican food, but nothing to get on a quick trip. Centro, $20

El Sanjuanino. Came here for the empanadas. Tried 4 different kinds. The spicy beef and the Napolitano (cheese and tomatoes) were our favorite. Fun local restaurant in Recoleta. Recoleta, $20

Mark's. NY style deli/restaurant in Palermo. Lots of good looking choices on the chalkboard. We both had salads: one caesar with chicken (so so) and one with arugula, sun dried tomatoes, goat cheese and olive paste (delic). $30

Dinner:

Don Julios. We had dinner here twice it was so good! The bife de chorizo and bife de lomo were excellent. The chorizo Don Julio (Chorizo app. with sun dried tomatoes and cheese) was delicious. White chocolate cheesecake was amazing. Fun atmosphere, mixture of tourists and locals. Palermo Soho, $60

La Cabrera. Had to try this out because it is in every guide book/often discussed on this board. We split the bife de chorizo and tried many of the sides that accompany the steak. While it was definitely good, the restaurant felt very disneyland-esque. I would still recommend it, but it was not our favorite. Palermo Soho, $85

Xalapa. Decent mexican food restaurant in Palermo. We had chicken enchilladas and a steak platter with guac, beans, rice, etc. Not amazing, but nice if you need a break from parillas. $50

Bella Italia. Quiet Italian restaurant in Palermo. We had carpaccio, a gnocchi dish and the veal chop. Mostly locals, in a residential part of Palermo. Definitely nicer/more expensive than most of the restaurants we went to. Palermo Chico, $100

Campo Bravo. Parilla in Las Canitas. Tried this location out so that we could explore Las Canitas afterwards. Delicious steaks (bife de chorizo and ojo de bife) and grilled vegetables. Fun atmosphere. Super crowded at 11 pm on a Wednesday. Las Canitas, $60

Miranda. Cool, industrial-style parilla in Palermo Hollywood. Really fun space, lots of locals. We had one bife de chorizo and one rib eye with grilled red peppers and a fried egg. Palermo Hollywood, $90

Tancat. Fun, lively tapas place downtown. Sat at the bar and ordered a number of tapas. Favorites were the shrimp with garlic and olive oil, the grilled mushrooms, and the patatas bravas (different from the Spanish version... had bacon and grilled peppers). Would definitely recommend this place. Centro, $85

Rio Alba. Parilla in a quiet part of Palermo. By far the best bife de chorizo we had all week. Much more of a local feel than some of the other restaurants. Palermo, $85

Sotto Voce. Italian restaurant in Recoleta (there is another one in Puerto Madera). Very nice, professional staff. Ordered two pasta dishes. The best was angel hair pasta with shrimp and sun dried tomatoes. We were given free champagne while we waited for a table and a free dessert. But it was still expensive. Recoleta, $100

Other things:

Anuva wine tasting. We did a wine tasting with Anuva Wines on one of our first days in BA. It was a great way to try some local wines and to meet other people. They served 5 types of wine, each with a food pairing. Palermo Hollywood, $46 per person.

Gelato. Tried Persecco, Freddo and Volta. All good... all a bit pricey. My favorite was the cafe flavor from Persecco.

  1. c
    cactuschowdah Sep 2, 2011 09:34 AM

    Great report, Energy- thanks for sharing. Which was your favorite parilla? I'm heading there in late October, and always looking for another good steak.

    1. a
      amzelazny Sep 5, 2011 09:57 AM

      Great report...we will be heading over in a couple of weeks and greatly appreciate the timeliness of your posting. Hey, are the prices listed per person or for two? I am guessing that you are listing the prices in USD v. ARS??

      6 Replies
      1. re: amzelazny
        e
        Energy09 Sep 5, 2011 11:55 AM

        Cactus, our favorite was definitely Don Julios. Campo Bravo was probably our second favorite. However, I think the best steak I got was at Rio Alba (bife de chorizo).

        Amzelazny, all of the prices are for 2 people and are in USD.

        1. re: Energy09
          Foodandwine Oct 21, 2011 05:07 PM

          Gosh, seems the prices are very High. I have traveled many times to BsAs what was the average value of the wine you were having? Thanks for the write up..

          1. re: Foodandwine
            l
            lmnopm Oct 22, 2011 04:55 PM

            Prices have skyrocketed in the past year. The past few years inflation has been very bad and the US$ has gone up by about 1/3 but prices have doubled or more in many instances. A large pizza at Sr. Telmo was in the AR$60+ range, and a lomo w/mustard sauce at DesNivel was near AR$70 or so (and these are budget minded places). These are yesterday's prices.

            1. re: lmnopm
              Foodandwine Oct 23, 2011 04:06 PM

              Thanks Imnopm, will be there next week for 2 weeks. I hear what your saying, I will investigate futher and report back as well. Just checked a benchmark for prices "Siga la Vaca in Puerto Madero" Lunch Monday to Thursday is $85 ARS. Not saying this a go to place, but last year I think it was in the high 60's low 70's not a big increase. BTW, that location is rather good for lunch. Bottle of wine, salad bar, side order bar, and desert will all the meat the you can eat ( tip a few pesos to the parilla man will get you the best and leanest cuts ) I go by myself for lunch every once in a while and its a well worth lunch. I take the Red Line to the station near Luna Park and walk both ways ( need it for that lunch ) I will check the parillias del barrios as well to see the increases. Thanks for the reply.. ARS at $4.25 to US $1.00 today..

              1. re: Foodandwine
                l
                lmnopm Oct 24, 2011 12:00 AM

                ATM is giving me $4.22+. and no fee credit card is giving me $4.23+. If you did not know, a new Jumbo opened in Puerto Madero - a few blocks south of Siga la Vaca, should you want some groceries that look fresh. (A small Jumbo, but better than most of the other stores on this end of town. The Eki is a pile of crap, and the Coto over here is marginal.)

            2. re: Foodandwine
              e
              Energy09 Oct 23, 2011 08:04 PM

              Foodandwine,

              The wine we got was usually between 10-15 USD. The prices were definitely reasonable, compared to the US, but not as cheap as I expected it to be.

        2. Sushi Lush Oct 27, 2011 03:31 PM

          Casa Mun was my best meal in BA -- foreign born chefs are taking up the slack in the local food scene -- which I can only politely describe as boring. The night we went, there was a wonderful soba noodle soup, new style albacore sashimi with crispy onion, an assortment of maki sushi plus a delictable spicy tuna on crispy rice. And all without cream cheese. I later read on the website and that Chef Mun was trained by Iron Chefs Okuwa and Morimoto and it all fell into place....hands down the best sushi & Asian option available.

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