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Aug 27, 2011 04:02 PM

Prague Vienna and Budapest

Going to these 3 cities in a couple weeks.
Would like recommendations for lunch and dinner - probably will splurge on a nice restaurant in each city. (have reservations at Onyx in Budapest already). Would like to stick with more "local" flavors than Italian or Indian or to find holes in the wall with excellent food and atmosphere. Places that you stumble across on your meandering in the city.
Don't want to spend a fortune every meal, so if you know of good values, we'd appreciate it.
Don't have a car so won't be able to find out of the way places.
Thank you for your suggestions!

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  1. A ha! I'm very excited to see your post since I love all three cities and have written a lot on my visits to them in the last couple years. You can find a looooong writeup I did of Prague and Vienna (and Krakow) at the bottom of this thread, I'll bet.

    Anyway, here are some quick recs:

    - Definitely Lokal. A fabulous traditional Czech restaurant with old-time cuisine expertly prepared in a slick and modern environment. And a fantastic Pilsner Urquell as well.
    - Strahov Pivovar - a brewery in a monastary up near the castle district with lovely plates of food and a few of their own beers
    - U Zlateho Tygra - A traditional Czech beer hall that, unlike many of the reall old ones, hasn't changed a thing to make life easier for tourists. Instead they're a huge pain in the ass, have amazing Pilsner and a killer tartar.
    - Hospoda U Novaka - A restaurant a little out of the way with lovely traditional food
    - Betlemske restaurant (or something like that, in Bethlehem square) inexpensive and lovely lunch specials.

    For the splurge we did the tasting at La Degustation. It's expensive but the Czech menu with pairings was so memorable.

    - Weinhof Wieninger: A wonderful heuriger where the Wieninger winery sells their wines along with beautiful food.
    - Phoenixhof - A traditional Viennese restaurant with simple, delicious food
    - Rudi Beisl: A bistro-style restaurant with exquisitely sophisticated, yet simple food
    - Restaurant Sperl - Great lunch option, especially if you're visiting the nearby Belvedere.
    - Three awesome cheap lunches for tiny sandwiches: Tznievski (sp), Duran and Zum Schwarzen Kameel. Each has their own spin on tiny little canape sandwiches and I love them all.

    Spent a lot less time there than the others but damn do I want to go back to the Central Market Hall and each more Langos!

    There are TONS of pics at my wife's blog: google Tasty Trix. There's whole travel sections for each place.

    Enjoy your trip! All three are amazing!

    1 Reply
    1. re: kukubura

      Thanks for this list. THere are some regulars on this Board I see, and everyone seems very knowledgable!

    2. Very surprised that there hasn't been any more discussion on these wonderful cities! Your trip is probably approaching so I was wondering if you'd decided on anything.

      1. At Kukubura's recommendation went to La Degustation in Prague. Had a fabulous dinner, a little molecular, a lot not, that with the local wine pairings made my best 10 life list. For me not to be missed, yes expensive but not hideously so, but world class, get the kitchen seats.

        10 Replies
        1. re: Delucacheesemonger

          I second La Degustacion in Prague.

          Their 19th century inspired Boheme Bourgeoise menu was awesome.

          1. re: Quimbombo

            thanks - we leave soon. I was surprised there was not more "chatter" as well!

            1. re: ncr

              Regarding Vienna, Sturmi must be away from a computer. His knowledge in encyclopedic.

                1. re: kukubura

                  Yes, I am on vacation in Italy, chow hounding along the Adriatic coast (without any posting to CH at all, since we stay away from the large cities).

                  Regarding your wish for an authentic experience of Viennese cuisine, I would first like to get a little bit more information about your visit to Vienna:

                  - where do you stay ?
                  - how much do you want to spend ?
                  - how long do you stay ?

                  1. re: Sturmi

                    I leave for Prague tomorrow. Vienna will be this Sunday night until Wednesday. Staying at K+K Maria Theresia hotel....then on to Budapest. Don't mind spending money. It's more the little holes in the wall that you discover that I would love to hear about. Thanks!

                    1. re: ncr

                      Don't forget to discover your own places! That's what Phoenixhof was for us, a total random discovery while wandering around, no recommendations, just good vibes. And now we go on and on about it.

                      1. re: kukubura

                        yeah but sometimes when you discover your own places you spend too much $ and the food isn't good. So I like to at least have a couple recommendations so our trip isn't a washout! Looking forward to posting our discoveries soon.
                        thanks again for your input -

                        1. re: ncr

                          Oh definitely. When we were in Vienna last year we would sometimes check in with Sturmi in the morning and get recs for that day's lunch. It was pretty awesome.

                          I just remembered more cheap eats that I forgot to mention: street food. Prague and Vienna both have great street food, especially for late at night. We loved the Bitzinger wurstlstand near the opera house in Vienna. And Prague has some great klobasa stands in Wenceslas Square. After a bunch of beers you can do no better.

                          Also, in Budapest there's a lovely outdoor cafe in Karoly square where we only had a drink (like I said, we were there too short) but if the weather is great it would be a nice place to sit outside and relax with a meal or a drink.

                      2. re: ncr

                        You hotel is in a great area, the Viennese red-light district of the 1800s called "Spittelberg". It is now a more touristy location, but not without its charms ...

                        There are MANY interesting places in the vicinity of your hotel. The Glacisbeisl
                        is just one block away, and the Burggasse is just one large line of restaurants and bars. Actually about half of them are Indian, Japanese, Italian, Thai etc. But there are also quite authentic Viennese beisl, such as Altwiener Gastwirtschaft Schilling
                        or Zu den 2 Lieserln

                        Also Phoenixhof ist not far away, and on the same street, Neustiftgasse, is the Gasthaus Wratschko recently featured by Anthony Bourdain...

          2. Prague - Cafe Imperial, Cafe Savoy, Mozaika
            Vienna - Plachutta
            Budapest - Onyx is a great choice