The "other" Jose, Bermondsey Street, Bermondsey/Southwark, London
- limster Aug 16, 2011 02:14 PM
Jose Pizzaro's 2nd restaurant opened quietly In the location that formerly housed Bermondsey Kitchen at the end of Bermondsey Street, opposite the church and a few doors south of Zucca. In contrast to Jose, which is packed, this place (not sure if they have a name, hope someone will chime in) was largely empty, with a handful of occupied tables.
Quality of the cooking is similar to Jose, but the menu follows a 3 course structure, rather than the tapas format.
Cool, tender squid, in a very light shade of pink violet, is cut into long ropey strings, tentacle like. I loved the contrast with the nutty toasted almonds, and balanced with the sweet-sour tomato and dressing, finishing with a crisp bitter edge from the tendrils and curly slim leaves of frisee.
Rabbit is supple and moist, with the faintest possible shadow of the wild. Excellent golden girolles, poised in flavour between depth and elegance, softly snapping on each bite. Soft small potatoes, lightly roasted, with slight crisp edges. A very savoury broth, a touch heavy with salt, teeming with chopped leaf herbs, probably mostly parsley.
Sweet lush figs, the centre benefitting from some caramelised sugar for extra sweetness and depth (and a god bridge to a sherry) is paired with an extremely light and airy ice cream, flavoured well with vanilla, and contrasted with toasted crumble as a base.
Simple good cooking, without fuss. IIRC, starters were around £6-7ish, main course about £13-16, desserts £5-6. Grateful to several friends who independently mentioned this place to me.