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Lyon recomendations.......

j
javi777 Aug 15, 2011 09:06 AM

I have been reading a bit and researching on Lyon restaurants but because of the abundance and quality of them we have not been able to make up our mind for our 1 night meal there.
We will be staying on Vieux Lyon and are mostly interesting in regional food (possibly a bouchon since we have never been to one ) and our budget is around 50 euros per person.

On our radar as of now the one restaurant that jumps out is bouchon Daniel et Denise....i don't particulary like offal which is somehow tied to lyonnese cuisine but i don't not think their menu is fullly based on it. Are there any must-have dishes to try there if this is the place we choose?

I would appreciatte any insigths, special dishes, restaurants, etc that anyone might have in order to make our dinner in Lyon memorable experience.

Thank you so much in advance!

  1. ChefJune Aug 15, 2011 12:23 PM

    I don't know D&D, but after reading your post, I would recommend La Voute, Chez Lea. It's just across the Saone at 11 Place Antonin Gourju, 69002 in the Centre Ville - very near the Pont Bonaparte. Phone: 04 78 42 01 33

    they serve what I consider the BEST Lyonnaise salad I've ever enjoyed. One of them could easily make a meal (so I recommend sharing) but you won't want to miss the Chicken in Red Wine Vinegar Sauce, for which they are justifiably famous. (no offal needed!) And say hello to Chef Philippe for me. :)

    1. fesenjan Aug 16, 2011 12:43 PM

      I had lunch at Daniel et Denise last fall and though the ambiance was very homey, I was not especially impressed by the food - I didn't feel I was getting a strong regional meal (which I did at the other bouchon I ate at, Le Garet) but neither did I feel like the food was so good as to stand on its own without the "regional" attraction. I don't remember my main dish but the two vegetables that came with it were scalloped potatoes and macaroni and cheese.

      I had two wonderful meals at "market cuisine" type restaurants that are part of a group called Les Gueules de Lyon -- one was Mon Bistrot à Moi in the 6th, and the other Le Potager des Halles in the 1st. Both offered contemporary, thoughtful, fresh dishes presented well and with warmth from the servers. Not bouchons, though.

      8 Replies
      1. re: fesenjan
        j
        javi777 Aug 24, 2011 06:30 PM

        Thank you so much ChefJune and Fesenjam for your recommendations.
        Will research them both thoroughly......although i am at a loss now concerning Daniel et Denise since i thought they were a solid bet.

        Hopefully someone else could leave a bit more feedback.
        Thanks in advance.

        1. re: javi777
          e
          EatDrinkLyon Aug 25, 2011 06:46 AM

          Hi there. Sorry to ask, but have you searched this forum already? I have posted quite a lot over the past few months on my restaurant picks.

          Personally, if you don't like Offal, I would steer clear of any bouchon, as you will find all manner of this type of dish on it. Also, avoid any resto in Vieux Lyon. They look charming, but they are very touristy and not good.

          Potager des Halles remains one of my favourite restos and is consistently good, with a good atmosphere. I think the menu there is around 34euro for 3 courses; add 4-5 more if you want the cheese course.That will be a short walk over the bridge and is a pleasant stroll.

          There are several good restaurants in the newly renovated area called the confluence, including Nicolas Le Bec's rue LeBec. It is not expensive and is within your price range, but getting there is challenging if you're not a local (depends if you like taking trams/metros etc.)

          Also depends when you are coming. Christian Tetedoie has a new bistro situated at the top of the hill close to Fourviere, which would be easy for you to get to as you can just take the funiculaire up from Vieux Lyon. It is not expensive and there are some amazing views. It's called Testa D'oca.

          I personally haven't eaten at D&D as it's not my thing, but I've heard so-so reviews - and if you have one meal, I'd say avoid it because it's not in a particularly pretty area.

          Hope this helps.
          http://eatdrinklyon.posterous.com/

          1. re: EatDrinkLyon
            j
            javi777 Aug 25, 2011 07:27 AM

            Thank you so much for your suggestions EDL. I figure i have been sort of bias towards a bouchon because it is a restaurant type particular of the area and it seems like the thing to do in Lyon. I might be starting to reconsider that.
            I did have read your older posts, but it seems like you have your own bias against bouchons. Is that the case?
            Anyways i really would appreciatte your insight in this area and will read your previous posts in detail.

            Also i would appreciatte some insight in which dishes are not to be missed while in Lyon in our 1 night there.

            Thanks in advance

            1. re: javi777
              e
              EatDrinkLyon Aug 25, 2011 08:07 AM

              It might be the thing to do, but not if you don't enjoy it! If you *really* want to try one, you should try this
              http://www.la-meuniere.fr/. But, beware the offal.

              I don't like heavy French cooking and lots of offal, which is why I avoid them, and lean towards the more modern restaurants where the classically trained chefs are using good quality ingredients and cooking them simply, with lots of flavour. Additionally, more and more wine bars are popping up over town, serving very good plates of charcuterie and cheese.

              Quenelle is a local dish but again - you need to be choosy about where you have it as it can be floury and stodgy. Every time I give it another chance i'm disappointed, so I now avoid this too! But, when cooked well, they are delicious.

              Another more traditional restaurant you could consider, if you don't like the modern ones, is Le Vivarais http://www.restaurant-le-vivarais.com/ which is very good and perhaps a blend of both types of cuisine, whilst being in a more traditional setting. It's in a pretty square just off the Rhone, near place Bellecour. The menu is online and you'll see it offers the local salad lyonnaise and quenelles as well as the local St Marcelin cheese and tete de veau, foie gras, should you decide on local fare.

              1. re: EatDrinkLyon
                m
                mgross07 Aug 25, 2011 06:58 PM

                Thank you EDL.
                I am definerly going to consider Potager des Halles for our one dinner in Lyon.
                So many choices.......

                One question if you or anyone had to pick ONE place, which one would it be.....tough question but please let me know

                Thank you

                1. re: mgross07
                  ChefJune Aug 26, 2011 09:11 AM

                  One place? That would depend upon my mood, most likely. but my favorite places are Leon de Lyon and La Voute Chez Lea, so it likely would be one of those two.

                  1. re: mgross07
                    e
                    EatDrinkLyon Aug 27, 2011 05:27 AM

                    Leon de Lyon does serve the traditional classics but isn't very exciting, to me. I took a look at their menu last week in passing and it just never excites me 'enough' to try it a 3rd time, and i've lived here 4 years and eat out twice a week. It's perfectly nice but I find it sterile and stiff - but if that's what you like then you won't go wrong - it's a safe choice.

                    I like Potager for its hustle and bustle, it's local but with a smattering of tourists, the servers are friendly, you're served a little amuse-gueule of tapenade; the ingredients are fresh, seasonal and inventive, and the chef is always smiling, and an ex Bocuse chef. Also, it's opposite the famous fresque (mural) and so you get to see a well known landmark at the same time!

                    That would be my choice. Everything is personal!

                    1. re: EatDrinkLyon
                      j
                      javi777 Aug 27, 2011 08:59 AM

                      Thank you Chef Jeune and EDL!!!!!!
                      I will definetly consider your top choices, since i am starting to steer away from the bouchon type that we had originally plan to go with.
                      I will defintly post on or return trip..we are spending 3 nights in paris, the driving down to Lyon with a quick stop in Vezelay. Afterwards we will be heading for Provence with stops in Arles, Gordes and Cassis.

                      Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions. Time to pick only 1,,,,which im not going to enjoy whatsoever.

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