Paris restaurants near Place de la Republique/11th Arrondisement?
My wife and I are staying in an apartment right near the Place de la Republique in the 11th in October for our honeymoon. I already have some ideas of great places in walking distance (West Country Girl, Le Chateaubriand, Maria Luisa, Philou, Breizh Café), but we're looking for recommendations of close-by places in that area that are quieter and easy to drop by for a low-stress, low-key meal on days/nights when we're not feeling like hitting a scene, maybe that don't require reservations. Similar drinking establishments would be appreciated, too. For reference, our favorite places here in the states are generally gastropubs and good Philly BYOs; in Paris, we'll eat anything.
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What o what is a gastropub?
In French if you just say gastro, it means Gastroenteritis, as in: I got the gastro.›4 Replies-
re: Parigi
It's a pub or pub-like resto that is trying harder (gastronomic) with their food than a traditional pub. Many are hiring chefs instead of just having the barman cook too. In this case I'm guessig it means a warm/cozy resto with higher quality food, but not a formal atmosphere.
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re: Parigi
DaTulip's definition is spot-on, both in the term itself and how I was intending it. In the US at least, the gastropub movement is almost entirely chef-driven (though it's rare here to ever have the bartender cook the food). Some examples: The Pub & Kitchen, The Standard Tap, and The Royal Tavern here in Philadelphia; The Spotted Pig and The Redhead in NYC.
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consider one of my regular joints: Le Manguier, on Rue Parmentier...mellow Senegalese place w/ sweet staff, cheap Tavel rose, and a Scotch Bonnet hot sauce (on request) that's as addictive as crack...some dishes excellent, some so-so, but i've bought into the whole relaxed vibe and will always return...
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A nice gastropub type place in that area is Le Petit Bal Perdu on Oberkampf, between Voltaire and Filles du Calvaire. It does get pretty busy but we managed to get in without a reservation by arriving on the early side (on a weeknight).
You'll also be right by the Popincourt market (Tuesdays and Fridays on Blvd Richard Lenoir between Timbaud and Oberkampf) which is great for picking up cheese, roast chicken, charcuterie, basically whatever you need, and then you can walk up to the Canal for a picnic. If the weather's good there are tons of people eating there in the evening, it can be a really nice, relaxed scene.
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l can give you sources rather than restaurants. On Ave Bretagne, excellent butchers, two on same block, two blocks from Republique with sublime boudin noir, very easy to cook, and IMHO, as good if not better than Pierre's at Bibou. Excellent fromagerie there as well, Jouannault. Just up Rue Yves Toudic towards metro J Bonsergent is Les Pains et du Idees, one of my fav bakeries in Paris, go early as they sell out of their super bread, the pagnol, very early. Another bakery, the other way down Blvd Voltaire is La Fournee d'Augustine, whose bread is good but has the distinction of selling a linen bread bag large enough for a full baguette. The only one ever found, thus no necessity of being on metro with end of bread hanging out, or having to break the loaf.
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re: Delucacheesemonger
Re the bread bag from "La Fournee d'Augustine": We happily possess (and use) one of these, thanks to DCM. Also in the general area, we have liked: "Le Villaret," 13, rue Ternaux, Métro: Parmentier; and "Le Repaire de Cartouche" (the upstairs bistro -- we've not been to the downstairs restaurant), 8 Boul. Des Filles-du-Calvaire, Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire (but service can be an issue). -- Jake
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re: Jake Dear
Both excellent suggestions, IMHO, although I doubt that drop-in is often a reality at either. Le Villaret is where I cut my teeth on an only-in-French carte. I remember Joel, the wonderful Maitre d' who became a principal in the later incarnation, patiently patting his body to designate various cuts of meat, even brilliantly getting across "fressure", a master of charades.
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