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Finally taking my 5 year old daughter to Paris for a couple of days - advice?

After years of reading Madeline to her, and having me bring her back goodies from Paris, I'm finally going to have a chance to spend a couple of days there with Lulu in the fall. She's a great eater; I'd say the only thing she doesn't like is hard boiled eggs. That said, she doesn't eat huge amounts, and I don't want anywhere stuffy. She loves escargot, garlic, stinky cheeses, baguettes and croissants, has been known to steal duck confit from my plate. So basically we are looking for places that will serve great food but be low-key (they can still be nice and somewhat fancy, I just don't want silence), not have huge portions. I'm probably the bigger problem eater, as I don't eat any pork, and not much red meat. We haven't picked a neighborhood yet, but I'm guessing we'll be in either the 6th or 7th (she's big on seeing the Eiffel Tower). I don't need much - we'll be training down to Toulouse after our 2 days (and I'll post asking for advice on that closer to the date). Thanks very much in advance for any help you can offer.
PS - One place I was thinking of was Fish in the 6th. Is it still a reasonably good place? It seemed very child friendly when I went.

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  1. What a treat! I'd look at David Lebovitz' blog. He was the dessert chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley CA for a long time, but has lived in Paris for several years now. I'll email my fave ones if I can find your email address.

    You can probably find him by Googling.

    2 Replies
    1. re: oakjoan

      What a fun place to find you, Oakjoan! I'd be thrilled to hear any suggestions you think fit the bill.

      1. dress her up and go for tea and pastries to LaDuree!

        1 Reply
        1. re: galka

          We'll definitely do Laduree. We did it at Harrods in London, and she didn't seem to quite "get" it, but a year and a half will have passed. Fingers crossed. At least I know *I* will like it!

          -----
          Laduree
          75 Champs-Élysées, Paris, Île-de-France 75008, FR

        2. We ate at Fish about a month ago with our 2 teen daughters. I think you'll be fine with a 5 year old as it's a rather noisy place (in a good way). Food was delicious, service also good. Be sure to reserve as it's a popular spot. Have fun!

          1 Reply
          1. re: ElaineL

            Thanks for the more recent review Elaine. I really appreciate it. I ate there a few years back and thought it was great and laid back, and it struck me as the kind of place a kid would feel comfortable and be happy (especially eating early).

          2. what a fun trip :) you must so proud of your daughter to like escargot and stinky cheese! -- i know that if/when i have kids i'd hope that they'll be similarly chow-ish...

            Two days...hmmm...for a somewhat fancy place, maybe Monsieur Lapin...loved their cheese tray, and while service is somewhat formal, there is a whimsical element (though if she isn't into eating rabbit, there might be better choices)...

            i'd say as part of the picturesque Madeline fantasy-come-true, get some Bertillion ice cream on Ile St. Louis and wander 'round Notre Dame and the quai near there...

            fwiw, i didn't care for Fish so much when i went last year -- it was ok, but the vibe and food seemed not unlike what one could easily get in NYC or Seattle...

            Chez Janou could be fun...a Provencal bistro in the 3rd...

            and having lunch at Le Reminet could be wonderful too...

            Enjoy and please report back on how where you go and your daughter's impressions of the city and food...

            1. also, given that she loves cheese, it might be great fun to take her to a cheese shop w/ a wide assortment and where they'll let her sample and she can choose from the hundreds of options...i particularly like my old local cheese shop on Ile St. Louis --- it's on R. St. Louis, on the right side of the street if you are walking towards Notre Dame, close to that end of the street...the staff are really sweet there...some cheese from there, and bread from next door makes for a great picnic on the quai...

              4 Replies
              1. re: Simon

                The first time I was in Paris with my daughter she was seven years old and we had lunch at Le Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower. It was perfect, such a treat! As I recall, we shared a lunch, maybe ordered a second appetizer? I'd requested a table near a window when I made the reservation and the view was, of course, spectacular. We were there again a few years ago when she was 17, and had a lovely lunch accompanied by treasured memories. I look forward to the next time.

                Have a wonderful trip!

                1. re: janeh

                  Another PERFECT suggestion. I've never been up the Eiffel Tower (not big on heights, but for her, I'd do it), but have, of course, heard many times about this place. And she's big into seeing the EF, and Notre Dame. I really love this idea - thank you so much.

                  1. re: LulusMom

                    You are very welcome! The restaurant is on a lower level than the observation deck and has a separate elevator, so you don't need to be as high above the ground or outside, which might make the height less of a discomfort. Savor this lovely time...

                2. re: Simon

                  The cheese shop is an especially wonderful suggestion. And I'll look into the ones in the post above. I very much appreciate your thoughts. Turns out we'll now have 3 days - woohoo! We get there early Sunday morning. Do they still have the birds on sale near Notre Dame (I hope I have this right) on Sunday mornings, does anyone know? That might be nice before a pastry.