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Help narrow down short list of Venice restaurants for end of August

d
delainefoss Aug 4, 2011 01:03 PM

My boyfriend and I will be in Venice for 4 nights. I have done extensive research on restaurants, etc. (including chowhound discussions) and have arrived at the following list. However, I still see contradictory reviews for each place and am having a hard time deciding. I would like something "romantic," but I think romantic can be rustic & charming like Da Ivo as well as elegant like Terrazza Danieli. However, good food and service are the primary considerations. I want to make reservations as soon as possible since will arrive on August 26.

My dinner list includes:

Da Ivo
Da Rafaelle (highly recommended by a friend and many times return diner)
Al Covo
Antiche Carampane
Alla Madonna
Cip's Club (dining with views of Piazza San Marco)
Terrazza Danieli (we're staying here and like the views of Venice & San Giorgio Maggiore at night)

I'm leaning towards Da Ivo, Da Rafaelle, Al Covo and Terrazza Danieli.

Since we will have a large breakfast at the Danieli and dinner, we will probably not make lunch reservations. Just in case, I'm considering the following for lunch:

Il Refolo
Ostaria da Rioba
La Zucca

I appreciate your comments and suggestions (they need not be limited to my list).

-----
La Zucca (aka alla Zucca)
Santa Croce, 1762, Venezia 30135, IT

Il Refolo
Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, 1459, Venezia 30135, IT

Antiche Carampane
Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

Alla Madonna
Calle della Madonna, San Polo, 594,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

  1. PBSF Aug 4, 2011 03:35 PM

    Just about every restaurant will have its detractors. We all have different taste and any restaurant can have a bad night. In addition, most visitors stay for a couple of days and great food is not on top of their agenda. Most rather eat a particular location for the view. One general comment is that some of the best traditional Venetian food are in simple trattorias and osterias where the décor is simple, tables somewhat closed together and the service do not have the precision of fine dining. And these are not inexpensive places. Of those on your list:

    Da Ivo: one of the best traditional restaurant in Venice; also has a few Tuscan specialities. This means the food is not fancy but the ingredients are top-notice and the cooking very precise. The service is proper but not formal. Cozy in an old-fashioned kind of way with beautiful lighting. It is like a ‘glorified’ trattoria. Don’t expect any pomp or fanciness. It is also one of the most expensive restaurant, comparable to any of the top hotel’s dining room such as the Gritti, Danieli, Bauer. A three course meal would be about 80euros pp before anything else is added.

    Da Rafaelle: if a side canal setting is the most important, can’t do any better. The long terrace is always beautifully lit and one can watch the nearby band of gondoliere plying their trade. It is postcard setting. Considering the number of diners they serve and that most visitors don’t pay much attention to the food, they do a credible job.

    Al Covo and Antiche Carampane: two of the best trattorias in Venice for Venetian food. Antiche is seafood only. Lots of earlier posts on this board.

    Alla Madonna: large old-fashioned bustling trattoria with a huge menu that has something for everyone. Much of the food is precooked, the ingredients are nothing special, waterlogged contorni. One might enjoy the old-fashioned white tuxedo clad waiters or noisy atmosphere or maybe just the moderate cost.

    Cip’s Club: your reason because of the view is good enough. The food at any Cipriani is always pretty good (maybe Harry's Bar is debatable). It depends on how one wants to spend their euros. I have never eaten at the Club because of my limited budget.

    Terrazza Danieli: if you are staying at the Danieli, maybe I should not be talking about budgetary concerns. Have never known anyone who has eaten there.

    Il Refolo: good upscale pizzeria with outdoor seating on a quiet campielle; during lunch, hope a boat is not parked and unloading grocery to the next door Coop Supermarket.

    Da Rioba, solid Venetian food with some nice salads; pleasant tables along side on a canal.

    La Zucca: nice simple modern décor; though there are a few Venetian dishes, the every changing menu is very eclectic with influences from the Middle East, India, South American and other Mediterranean counties. No seafood served; lots of vegetables as antipasti and side dishes. The food is always tasty though sometimes needs a little finesse. Moderately price by Venice standard.

    Except for the Cip and the Danieli, I have eaten at the places on your list at least twice and more than a several time at some. If I to choose a restaurant that combines food, view, ambience and without budgetary consideration I would do da Pisis in the Bauer. I like the terrace and the view better than the either the Cip's Club or the rooftop Danieli. My only hesitation is that he food is a re-intrepratation of traditional Venetian recipes rather than classic Venetian cooking. And this is based on one dinner this past April.

    -----
    La Zucca (aka alla Zucca)
    Santa Croce, 1762, Venezia 30135, IT

    Il Refolo
    Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, 1459, Venezia 30135, IT

    Antiche Carampane
    Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

    Da Rioba
    Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio, 2553, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

    Al Covo
    Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

    Alla Madonna
    Calle della Madonna, San Polo, 594,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

    5 Replies
    1. re: PBSF
      j
      Jojolow Aug 4, 2011 04:06 PM

      Hi delainefoss
      We ate at both la Zucca and da rioba this month. Both were very good (for different reasons) and as a side benefit very romantic. It is hard to beat sitting right on the edge of the canals. Da rioba is moderately priced, relaxed with the emphasis on Venetian seafood. La yucca is great for vegetarians. The cooking is solid if not refined. Simple pastas and interesting veggie preparations. I'd rec both of them

      1. re: PBSF
        d
        delainefoss Aug 4, 2011 06:33 PM

        Thank you so much PBSF for your very detailed and quick response. I appreciate the time it took and that you addressed all my options. I feel much more confident in my choices. I enjoyed reading your prior posts as well. I can't wait until I get to Venice!

        1. re: delainefoss
          PBSF Aug 5, 2011 09:24 AM

          Please report back after your trip. You have an interesting list, some places that do not get mentioned much if at all on this board. Places such as da Rafaelle is very popular and I've been with visiting friends. They really enjoy it. And places in hotels other than The Met, never gets mention. Just don't go to Alla Madonna expecting good food.

          -----
          Alla Madonna
          Calle della Madonna, San Polo, 594,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

          1. re: PBSF
            d
            delainefoss Aug 8, 2011 07:35 PM

            I have secured dinner reservations at Da Rafaelle and Terrazza Danieli. I might leave the night of our arrival open. I still need something for Sunday and haven't heard yet regarding Al Covo. I'm considering Ai Gondolieri and Linead'ombra. I know one is mainly meat and one is mainly fish, but any thoughts?

            -----
            Ai Gondolieri
            Fondamenta de Ospedaleto, Dorsoduro, 366, 30123, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT

            Al Covo
            Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

            1. re: delainefoss
              PBSF Aug 8, 2011 09:14 PM

              Linead'ombra was just mentioned on this board. I have not been there, probably won't unless we get a invitation from a generous future guest that is staying with us. Al Gondoliere is fine but it has never been top of my list. I would definitely do Al Covo over Al Gondoliere; better food, less expensive and warmer ambience. If you are doing Da Rafaella and and the Danieli, I would pick a trattoria that gives one what is eating in Venice is about, preferable one that has excellent seafood. At least there will be a chance that you'll be rubbing elbow with a few Venetians. I think it really comes down to how important is food to you and your boyfriend. There are lots of places in Venice that have good view and decent food and doesn't cost an arm and leg. Most are more traditional places and doesn't cater exclusively to the international crowd. And it is not always about the cost; I can dress simply, relax and not have to be on my best behavior. For expansive view, I would go for drinks at the Skyline Bar (with the best 360 degree view of Venice, the Lagoon and Marghera to boot) at the Molina-Stucky in the Giudecca or the Bar Terraza Danieli, or the Terrace at the Bauer.
              For romance, I prefer cozy over glitzy formal places with view and large brigade of waiters. I like small personal places like the second floor alcove at Bancogiro, or the quiet corner at Boccadoro, the simple nicely lit back room of La Zucca.
              If you do pick a traditional seafood place, you might have to rearrange your restaurants because most are closed Sundays and Mondays. That shouldn't be difficult as Da Rafaelle and Danieli are open 7 days a week. If you have contacted Al Covo by email, they will reply back; might still be on their short annual summer closing.
              One thing about Venice is that during high season, certain areas are just packed, bumper to bumper with visitors; sometimes it is good to just relax with a simple dinner; then have some quiet time to stroll the city later in the evening. Grab a gelato. This is when Venice is truly magical.

              -----
              Al Covo
              Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

      2. d
        divinecomedie Aug 4, 2011 10:31 PM

        If you want view and good food, I'd recommend two restaurants on the magnificent Zattere.
        The first, that I did test only in late August is the one that just replaced my favorite restaurant in Venice Ristorante Riviera (change management )
        It is now the "Al pesador Riviera"!
        I take a risk because I still I have not eaten since the change of ownership but the beautiful terrace on the Zattere and facing the Molino Stucky must be the same ( very romantic)
        http://www.alpesador.it/#/HOME-01-00/
        At the other end of the Zattere, there is the Ristorante Lineadombra shortly before the Punta della Dogana with for me the most beautiful terrace in Venice and fine cuisine. Beware Prices accordingly!!! But very, very romantic ;-)
        )http://www.ristorantelineadombra.com/...
        I confirm Antiche Carampane is an excellent Trattoria ( my favorite with Alle Testiere in holiday until September 2).
        If you go to the Arsenale at the Biennale another alternative may be the Trattoria Corte Sconta with its beautiful courtyard hidden. Corte Sconta is seafood only !

        -----
        Corte Sconta
        Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886, Venezia 30122, IT

        Antiche Carampane
        Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

        Lineadombra
        Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsoduro, 19, Venice, Veneto , IT

        16 Replies
        1. re: divinecomedie
          o
          ospreycove Aug 5, 2011 10:52 AM

          Da Pinto, Campiello della Beccarie, if you can get in.
          http://www.italymag.co.uk/italy/touri...

          1. re: ospreycove
            PBSF Aug 5, 2011 05:14 PM

            Da Pinto is fine for a few cicchetti for lunch, especially if one happens to be near the Rialto market. It can be fun to rub elbows with the vendors after they closed shop on Saturdays afternoon. The rest of the menu served in the seat down rear dining rooms is nothing special. And one shouldn't have problem getting a table there. Maybe we hit it on less than a stellar evening; friendly staff though. Haven't been in a couple of years. The nearby Al Garanghelo on c/dei Botteri is much better. The link you provided has nothing to do with the da Pinto.

            -----
            da Pinto
            Sestiere San Polo,367, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

            1. re: PBSF
              o
              ospreycove Aug 5, 2011 06:56 PM

              PBSF it applies to the restaurant scene in general; looks like the golden age of Venezia is not in the future looks more and more like a theme park!

              1. re: ospreycove
                PBSF Aug 5, 2011 07:20 PM

                Someone else posted that link earlier and it was deleted by the site monitor. Probable reason is that they didn't think it has anything to do with food. I was really looking forward to some good reply to that post, specially when the heading was something like "Is Good Food Over for Venice?". The Golden Age of Venice ended more than 300 years ago. They are great at re-inventing themselves by providing entertainment to the world. And separating visitors from their money. It might be a 'theme park" but it is the worlds most amazing theme-park. For us, it is difficult to stay away. There are still so many quiet areas in such a small overwhelmed city. And the food can be terrific because of the availability of great seafood and produce. Sadly, most of it is has to be cooked by oneself. From our experience, one can actually eat out better now than thirty years ago because there are more food savvy people traveling (even to Venice). But good restaurants are budget busting. Great that one can still get a good gelato for 1.2euro, a standup breakfast of cappuccino and pastry for 2.5.
                Glad you mentioned Da Pinto; though the food is not always stellar, it is one of those places that are necessary for any city to survive. Venice is not all about Alle Testiere, Al Covo, Da Fiore, Harry's Bar, etc.

                1. re: ospreycove
                  jen kalb Aug 5, 2011 09:02 PM

                  Da Pinto is listed in Scibilia's book (a lot of places are not) but she comments ruefully that more and more it is given over to standard tourist fare.. She advises to "set a good example and order sepioline,shrimp,folpeti rosti and above all the ever delicious baccala mantecano. Soon the owner will realize that even tourists are capable of appreciating quality food and be educated to enjoy good food from the local heritage."

                  -----
                  da Pinto
                  Sestiere San Polo,367, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                  1. re: jen kalb
                    o
                    ospreycove Aug 6, 2011 06:03 AM

                    At da Pinto, if one asks for the special of the day, as opposed to the "Translated" tourist menu, Our experiences have mostly been very good, good simple seafood dishes are usually available.

                    -----
                    da Pinto
                    Sestiere San Polo,367, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                    1. re: ospreycove
                      livingvenice Aug 6, 2011 08:40 AM

                      I personally think your "what's good today" approach is great advice at almost any restaurant. In Venice, it will certainly get your the best fish & seafood they have on hand. :)

                2. re: PBSF
                  livingvenice Aug 6, 2011 03:07 AM

                  2nd that on Ostaria Garanghelo just round the corner from da Pinto. Lovely folks, tasty traditional fare.

                  -----
                  da Pinto
                  Sestiere San Polo,367, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

              2. re: divinecomedie
                PBSF Aug 6, 2011 09:43 AM

                Interesting that Ristorante Riviera has been taken over by the same people as the Al Pesador Rialto. The cooking style will be less traditional. The view from that part of Zattere is very different, of the Giudecca and even the docks and Margheria. I have always been reluctant to eat outside because of the throng of people strolling by, almost like that of the Riva degl Schiavoni. The view from Lineadombra on the other end of the Zattere is terrific and gotten crowded because the reopening of the Dogana. Finally, people can walk around the tip and get the great view. I have never eaten there; what is the food and service like?

                -----
                Lineadombra
                Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsoduro, 19, Venice, Veneto , IT

                Al Pesador Rialto
                Sestiere San Polo,125, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                1. re: PBSF
                  jen kalb Aug 6, 2011 04:07 PM

                  adding link for El Pesador Riviera

                  -----
                  Al Pesador Riviera
                  Zattere,Sestiere Dorsoduro,1473, Venice, Veneto , IT

                  1. re: PBSF
                    d
                    divinecomedie Aug 7, 2011 01:29 AM

                    To answer for Lineadombra, in my opinion it is a very good restaurant and very classy !
                    This is the traditional Venetian cooking can be a little revisited like this "Fegato alla veneziana" with polenta (classical) and figs for the modern.
                    On the other photo on a disc of polenta a piece of monkfish sauce martini (fish ideally cooked).
                    And of course not taking dessert they brought me every time a glass of Lemoncello ( if you
                    prefer you can have Grappa) with small biscuits of the house to eat facing the terrific view !
                    The only thing is that prices are very high (the value for money is not the same that at Antiche Carampane for example) but worth it for the view from the terrace and good food !
                    A tip: by asking nicely and if you do not have money to eat it will allow you to have a drink on their beautiful terrace. I forgot, I have never eaten inside but it is very beautiful and modern.
                    Something to be one of my favorite restaurants in Venice;-)

                    -----
                    Antiche Carampane
                    Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

                    Lineadombra
                    Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsoduro, 19, Venice, Veneto , IT

                     
                     
                     
                     
                    1. re: divinecomedie
                      PBSF Aug 7, 2011 02:20 AM

                      Thank you so much for the write up. NICE. After coming to Venice for 30 years, dining with a view is no longer very important. Usually, we go to these places if generous guests staying with us insist on it. Even a spritz would probably set one back 20euro. I only noticed the restaurant last year when the Dogana finally re-opened and we were able to stroll around the Zattere to the Salute. And able to see and touch the white statue exhibited on the tip. I'll put it on long my 'wish' list just below the new Quadri.

                    2. re: PBSF
                      livingvenice Aug 7, 2011 02:49 AM

                      I'm afraid I haven't tried the Pesador' Riviera. I am not inclined to pay for a view unless it's before or after dinner (I like the expansive Giudecca Canal view, but the Chioschetto will do just fine), or until three people whose opinions I trust rave about the food.

                      A traveler's desire for a spectacular view is perfectly understandable...but I have seen to often where it's a substitute for other qualities, which is unfortunate. Doesn't mean there are not locales that combine view with lovely food and service -- thank heaven -- but that view will always have a price (naturally so).

                      1. re: livingvenice
                        jen kalb Aug 7, 2011 05:01 AM

                        What do you think oft Altanella? Its been on my go-to list for a long time.

                        or Alla Fontana? both have canal views and positively regarded food.

                        -----
                        Alla Fontana
                        Fondamenta di Cannaregio 1102, Venice, Veneto , IT

                        Altanella
                        Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca, 268, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT

                        1. re: jen kalb
                          d
                          divinecomedie Aug 7, 2011 09:59 AM

                          I love this a little secret Trattoria of the Giudecca with this so special atmosphere "times gone" just like the Pensione la Calcina or Seguso.
                          The tables are plastic, but covered with tablecloths and fine old papers menus with an engraving. The terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal is so quiet and beautiful. The food is simple, very traditional and honest.
                          I remember a good "Fegato alla veneziana" ( no fig but caramelized Onions) and gnocchi even better with squid ink.
                          The White House is correct (a Tokai) if I remember...
                          I also remember a good Tiramisu (as good as eating in Gatto Nero in Burano) and a semifreddo with grapes in grappa.
                          Please note the address is almost always full as shown by the small wooden signs on the tables (= reservato) and it closes on Monday and Tuesday!
                          Enjoy !

                          -----
                          Altanella
                          Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca, 268, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT

                           
                           
                           
                           
                          1. re: jen kalb
                            livingvenice Aug 8, 2011 05:53 AM

                            Hm...I ate at Altanella quite a while ago, and don't remember it well enough to give an opinion! I do know lots of people like it. I like Fontanella very much, there's such a homey atmosphere on the Cannaregio canal owing to the high resident population (compared to San Marco or Dorsoduro, for example) -- makes a nice contrast. Marisa is another "home town" favorite -- it is the place to satisfy the insatiable -- the food there just keeps on coming... :)

                            -----
                            Alla Fontana
                            Fondamenta di Cannaregio 1102, Venice, Veneto , IT

                            Altanella
                            Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca, 268, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT

                    3. livingvenice Aug 6, 2011 03:10 AM

                      I'd definitely keep Carampane and Zucca on your list. Why not head out to Burano and Gatto Nero for some risotto di Gò, or branzino sotto sale...fine food, excellent service, super setting (and the chef/owner is a doll):

                      -----
                      Gatto Nero da Ruggiero (Trattoria Al Gatto Nero)
                      Fondamenta della Giudecca,88, Venice, Veneto 30142, IT

                      1. d
                        delainefoss Sep 12, 2011 12:19 PM

                        Thanks for all your help. I recently returned from Europe, having spent 4 nights in Venice, before embarking on a cruise down the coast of Croatia. Since so many questions are asked about Venice restaurants (including by me), I hope my posting will be helpful. I scoured the internet, all the guidebooks, the Fodors forum, the Chowhound forum and solicited advice from friends who frequent Venice. I came up with a pretty long list of restaurants, which I gradually narrowed down. (I also wanted restaurants that would not require long walks at night in dressier shoes.)

                        Night 1 – On our first night we ate at Ristorante Da Ivo, http://www.ristorantedaivo.com. I cannot praise it highly enough. It is located on a back canal in the San Marco sestiere and is accessible on foot and by water. From Hotel Danieli it was a 10 or 15 minute walk, maximum. The restaurant is small and charmingly rustic. It is one of the most romantic places I have ever dined. Da Ivo has only roughly 10 tables. When we arrived at 7:30 it was empty, but it soon completely filled (a lot of the patrons were Italian). I would say that reservations are essential. I made reservations several weeks in advance, and we were seated at what I think is the best table, a table for two next to the window overlooking the canal. The service was extremely attentive, and you never had to ask for anything. The menu was quite varied, and they also had a number of specials for the evening (written in Italian, but explained clearly in English). With our cocktails they brought an amuse bouche of a roasted tomato-mascarpone crostini. We shared an antipasto course of fried zucchini blossom stuffed with crab. We also shared a first course of mushroom risotto (I say shared, but each portion looked like a full serving). For my second course I had tortellini in a spinach basil cheese sauce (actually another first course, but there were so many that sounded good I had to try it). My boyfriend had veal osso buco which was almost falling off the bone. With dinner we had a bottle of house merlot. Before dessert they brought bocconcini of chocolate-dipped gelato. For dessert, we shared a tiramisu. All of the food was delicious, and this was our favorite meal in Venice. Although I did not see the final bill, the restaurant is very expensive. We thought it was well worth it and would definitely return on any subsequent visit to Venice.

                        After-dinner 1 – We sat at Caffe Lavena, http://www.lavena.it, in Piazza San Marco listening to the orchestras. We only had drinks.

                        Breakfast 1, 2, 3 and 4 – We had a large buffet breakfast each morning in the rooftop restaurant at the hotel and were generally too full for lunch. That did not stop us, however, from having gelato daily!

                        Gelato 1 – On our first full day we visited Rosa Salva, http://www.rosasalva.it, on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. The gelato was good. I had a scoop (pallina) of meringa mousse and one of zabaione mousse, but we loved the sandwiches. We shared a simple sandwich consisting of prosciutto, sliced boiled egg and mayonnaise on soft white sandwich bread. It was heavenly! I would try to replicate it here, but I’m sure it would not be the same.

                        Night 2 – For our second night we chose Ristorante da Rafaelle, http://www.ristorantedaraffaele.com. It is located on a back canal in the San Marco sestiere very near Campo Santa Maria del Giglio and the Hotel Gritti Palace. It was only a 10 minute walk from Hotel Danieli.

                        An aside: We had decided in advance to take a gondola ride using the gondola station next to the restaurant. After securing the gondola, my boyfriend went into Da Rafaelle and got drinks for us (spritz con Aperol for me) to drink during our ride, which began around 7:30. I highly recommend a sunset gondola ride; it was very romantic. We stayed mainly to quiet back canals with only a short stint on the Grand Canal (the route I preferred) before returning for our dinner.

                        Da Rafaelle is fairly large and has both interior and exterior dining. I had made a reservation requesting a canal-side table on the terrace, and it was waiting for us. The setting was lovely, as we could also enjoy the sight of the passing gondole. We had a bottle of Chianti Classico and shared a plate of prosciutto e melone for our antipasto course. The cantaloupe was wonderfully sweet. For our first course we shared a shrimp risotto (again, each portion looked like a full serving). For my second course I again chose another first – tagliolini with shaved black truffles. It was heavenly for a truffle fiend like me. My boyfriend had a beef filet. For dessert we shared a tartuffo (a ball of chocolate and vanilla gelato) floating in liqueur. Again the meal was delicious but not inexpensive.

                        After-dinner 2 – Since we were so close to the Hotel Gritti Palace we went to their bar, Bar Longhi, http://www.hotelgrittipalacevenice.com/en/bar-longhi. We got a table on the terrace on the Grand Canal. The views of the illuminated Santa Maria della Salute and the canal were beautiful, and a musician was playing the piano. It was a lovely, romantic setting.

                        Gelato 2 – On our second full day we had gelato at Gelateria Paolin in Campo Santo Stefano. I had a scoop of coconut and one of Malaga (rum-raisin). I think their gelato was definitely better than that of Rosa Salva.

                        Night 3 – On our third night we chose Ristorante Al Covo, http://www.ristorantealcovo.com, located in a small campiello in Castello. The walk was shorter than we anticipated, so we arrived before our reservation time. However, they graciously allowed us to be seated anyway. There were several rooms inside, but we chose one of the few tables outside. The restaurant is owned by a woman from Texas and her Italian husband; they were both very nice. For our antipasto course we shared a large mixed seafood plate: clams, mussels, shrimp (small, large & alien), razor clams, anchovies, sardines and sea snails. Continuing the theme, we shared a seafood risotto for our first course. For my second course, I had a—guess what—seafood fritto misto which also included, among other things, oysters, calamari and baby sole. The batter was very light and crispy and not at all greasy. All the seafood was fresh. My boyfriend had a breaded veal chop. While it was a nice meal, it was not our favorite. Also, the service was rather slow. As a result we decided to skip dessert.

                        After-dinner 3 – We returned again to Caffe Lavena. We thought that their orchestra was more lively than that of Florian or Quadri and had made a small acquaintance, such that they would accept requests. We had our dessert there, a lovely “cup” (really a bowl on a pedestal) of vanilla gelato with rum, whipped cream and rum-soaked sponge cake balls. It was quite decadent.

                        Gelato 3 – On our last full day we had our gelato at Gelato da Nico on the Zattere ai Gesuati (very near the vaporetto stop). I had a delicious scoop of amaretto, complete with crumbled amaretti cookies. They also had the prosciutto, boiled egg and mayo sandwiches we liked so much. We looked longingly at the nearby Gelateria Lo Squero as we passed, but, alas, it was only 10 minutes since our last gelato and too soon for another.

                        Night 4 – We had to get up early the next morning, so I had made reservations for dinner at the hotel’s rooftop Restaurant Terrazza Danieli, http://www.danielihotelvenice.com/en/.... When we arrived they were rather abrupt, but once we gave the name of our reservation, they changed completely and took us to a table next to the railing overlooking the Grand Canal. The view was splendid! We shared a lovely, large caprese salad as a starter and a risotto for the first course. Both of us being huge risotto fans, we were in heaven in Venice. For the second course, I had a veal filet, and my boyfriend had a mixed seafood plate with an immense prawn. For dessert we had a chocolate torte with coconut gelato. We also had a bottle of red wine (I don’t remember what label). The food was quite good, much better than you would normally expect from a hotel restaurant; however, it was also the most expensive. We liked the fact that we didn’t have to do any walking and could just go down to our room though.

                        After-dinner 4 – Since we didn’t want to go far, we had our after-dinner drinks in the hotel’s lobby bar, the Bar Dandolo. The drinks may have been a trifle bit more expensive, but it was a very regal, or, I should say, ducal, setting, since the hotel was once the palazzo of Doge Enrico Dandolo. Again, it was also convenient.

                        -----
                        Al Covo
                        Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

                        1 Reply
                        1. re: delainefoss
                          PBSF Sep 12, 2011 12:32 PM

                          Thank you so much for reporting back. Wish we had your budget. The last time de dined at Da Ivo, our guests paid; your report saids it all. I like your story about the greeting at the Terrazza Danieli; We can't afford the place but occasionally we would stroll pass the check-in/concierge desk to enjoy the lobby. The staff behind the desk invariably gives us the sizing up look. It is not our style but always interesting to see how the Dandolo family lived. Glad you also enjoyed the other restaurants.

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