Coach and Horses, Farringdon, London
- limster Jul 31, 2011 04:56 PM
Superb lamb sweetbreads -- soft and slightly firm, without mushiness, good savoury flavour, sustained but not intense. A rosy fillet of lamb neck was remarkably tender and equally flavourful. A balanced sweetness from a mash of butternut squash (or something similar) and elegant carrots. The plate was glossy with savoury oils (pan juices? lamb fat?) with a darker demi-glace like reduction, might be too oily for some, but I was pretty happy.
Fine fibres of slow cooked rabbit were soft and satiny, bathed in a tomato based sauce, generously meaty with broad and slightly snappy stripes of slippery pappardelle.
A smooth icing on the bakewell tart, beautifully handled sugar over a nutty crumbly tart, nicely cut with a line of jam, the sweetness balanced against a dense and somewhat sticky quenelle of cream.
Excellent cooking from their new(ish) chef in a gastropub setting. Looking forward to trying their house cured hams next.
An older write-up on the previous regime: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/659986
Yeah - definitely not summery, and certainly somewhat heavy. I should say that I wasn't 100% sure whether it was butternut squash (hence the qualifier in my post). A sweetish, orange root vegetable mash would be a safer way to put it.
I didn't remember what else they had on the menu, but there may have been a couple of lighter fish or veg dishes. Admittedly, I was curious about their pork pie by the bar, but again, not something light by any means.