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Jul 31, 2011 04:56 PM

Coach and Horses, Farringdon, London

Superb lamb sweetbreads -- soft and slightly firm, without mushiness, good savoury flavour, sustained but not intense. A rosy fillet of lamb neck was remarkably tender and equally flavourful. A balanced sweetness from a mash of butternut squash (or something similar) and elegant carrots. The plate was glossy with savoury oils (pan juices? lamb fat?) with a darker demi-glace like reduction, might be too oily for some, but I was pretty happy.

Fine fibres of slow cooked rabbit were soft and satiny, bathed in a tomato based sauce, generously meaty with broad and slightly snappy stripes of slippery pappardelle.

A smooth icing on the bakewell tart, beautifully handled sugar over a nutty crumbly tart, nicely cut with a line of jam, the sweetness balanced against a dense and somewhat sticky quenelle of cream.

Excellent cooking from their new(ish) chef in a gastropub setting. Looking forward to trying their house cured hams next.

An older write-up on the previous regime:

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  1. i enjoyed this place too when i was living nearby last fall/winter...

    1. Doesn't sound very summery -- meat and butternut squash? Seems quite a few of the gastropubs struggle at this time of year... The menu's at a lot of places are way too heavy right now.

      1 Reply
      1. re: meb81

        Yeah - definitely not summery, and certainly somewhat heavy. I should say that I wasn't 100% sure whether it was butternut squash (hence the qualifier in my post). A sweetish, orange root vegetable mash would be a safer way to put it.

        I didn't remember what else they had on the menu, but there may have been a couple of lighter fish or veg dishes. Admittedly, I was curious about their pork pie by the bar, but again, not something light by any means.