HOME > Chowhound > Italy >

Discussion

Tivoli/Ostia

  • 8

Will be spending late morning/early afternoon in Tivoli. Just checking for updates for lunch: Jen and Maureen recommend the restaurant in the Hotel Adriano, as well as Ristorante Sibilla (as do others, with one or two exceptions). Any other suggestions? Prefer casual and not too pricey.

Then on to Fiumicino to check friends in at their airport hotel. Was thinking of dinner in Lido di Ostia before heading back home to Marche. Maureen recommends La Vecchia Pineta, and from what little info there is on the Internets, it seems perfectly suitable (Pascucci al Porticciolo in Fiumicino I expect may be a tad too fancy for my friends). Will I need to book a table for a Friday evening in August? My instincts say yes. Any other options?

  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
Delete
  1. You need a reservation for a Friday evening always, any time. Pascucci is a wonderful restaurant. The cuisine is refined, but the atmosphere isn't heavy. It would be a shame to miss it. La Vecchia Pineta is not really more casual, but it's more of a classic seaside restaurant and certainly good. I haven't been to the Hotel Adriano in years. Sibilla is good (not fabulous) and the setting is magic. Would prefer Sibilla.

    3 Replies
    1. re: mbfant

      My (2006) copy of the Gambero Rosso ristoranti guide gives Pascucci a very respectable 80. Price point is indicated at € 51, which likely means (today) primi in the teens, secondi in the 20s (website lists the lower-priced menu at € 75, which would seem to confirm my assumptions). Would that be accurate? Also, how does La Vecchia Pineta compare price-wise? My friends are on a bit of a budget. However, I see your point: Pascucci looks like a must-try.

      1. re: ghiottone

        Neither is the bargain option, but when it comes to fish, we don't do bargain, except perhaps when the fish have jumped from boat to table.

    2. My friends weren't into eating lunch when we arrived in Tivoli yesterday, preferring instead to grab panini at the bar in the Villa d'Este. Recommendation for Sibilla duly noted for my next visit, though.

      As for Ostia, La Vecchia Pineta doesn't start service until 8 PM. Friends were staying at a hotel east of Fiumicino and had to be at the airport early the next morning, meaning that I wouldn't have had them back until late. I twisted their arms to drive into Ostia anyway and see if we could find a place serving early. However, asking around, 8:00 seems the standard start of service in Ostia. We stumbled onto Il Giardino degli Aranci (http://www.ilgiardinodegliaranci.it/), and I sweet-talked them into serving us at 6:30. It was really very good. The day's selection of fish looked quite fresh and was reasonably priced. We started with two orders of the antipasto dello chef, which featured fresh anchovies, breaded and fried sardines, a little serving of salmon, a croquette of some sort, and one very generous, very tasty scampo. We all had pasta for our mains, and each was really good. My maltagliati with sugo di pesce (with pacchini) were excellent, with a hearty amount of shellfish. The waiter's suggestion of house-made ravioli filled with sea bass got a thumb's up. Also on the table were linguine served with a halved, fair-sized lobster, a nicely plated risotto al pescatore, and couscous with little bits of octopus. We drank a quite acceptable Soente. The staff was friendly and gracious, the tableware first rate. Prices were reasonable. And if you're looking for gelato for dessert (or whenever), Il Gelatone, just a few doors down from the restaurant, is excellent.

      The restaurant is also easily accessible, located at the terminus of the main road (the Via del Mare) coming in from the GRA, just 100 meters or so before you reach the seafront Piazza del Ravennati. Even though many on this board won't likely venture to Ostia to eat (the first time I did was to see why Passolini liked to make the trek [you can find his ill-tended memorial, located at the site of his murder, near the end of the Via dell'Idroscalo]), the restaurant is at any rate another solid choice in addition to Maureen's recommendation.

      1 Reply
      1. re: ghiottone

        I ventured into Ostia Antica to eat some years ago and had a tasty, somewhat rustic, and very affordable meal at Il Monumento. I liked it so much I went back for lunch the next day. The restaurant's history dates back to when workers were imported from Emilia-Romagna to help drain the salt marshes to build the airport. They worked under near slave-labor conditions, and this place opened up to serve the homesick workers E-R cuisine and also be a place for them to socialize. It still serves E-R dishes. The restaurant lore is that Fellini, another E-R native, liked to go there when he filmed at Cinecitta and kept a villa in Fregene.

        -----
        Monumento
        Piazza Umberto I , 8, Ostia Antica, Lazio , IT

      2. Well, at least I *tried* to reserve at Pascucci. I'm flying out to Berlin tomorrow night, and doing the math, I knew I'd have to try to strong-arm a table at 7 PM: "Impossibile, non si mangia in Italia alle 7", etc etc. So I asked if there were anything else that he could recommend. Response: "Inside the airport". Just like the major airports at all other metropoles, dining is a wasteland around LdV.

        1 Reply
        1. re: ghiottone

          Well here's a place where you might be able to get a snack in the area though it looks sort of minimal (I havent tried) but the LDV airport like all airports seems to have terrible food. there was a post a few months back about a decent eatery but I simply dont believe it.

          http://lafraschettadelborgo.sitonline...

          Ostia Antica Borgo is a nice little place. Cant tell when Monumento there opens - it might also be worth checking out per the recc above - looked popular (was booked full) when we tried to go there a few years back.

          -----
          Monumento
          Piazza Umberto I , 8, Ostia Antica, Lazio , IT