Recap of my trip to Wellfleet. Not really treading any new ground here -- mostly just following the leads posted on this board.
1. Enjoyed dinner at Pain D'Avignon. Its exterior is so nondescript that I almost missed it, but the dining area was pleasant and inviting. The mussels were superb, and the lamb risotto had succulent pieces of loin and sweetbreads. Scallops were served whole, and in the shell. Steak frites was perfect. We were disappointed that there was no fruit tart, but my wife and I shared a crepe with raspberries and chocolate. Finished off the evening with a show at the Cape Cod Melody Tent.
2. We had fried clams and lobster rolls at Sesuit Harbor Cafe (which I drove by twice before I finally found it) and Friendly Fisherman. Both were excellent. We had a slight food preference for Friendly Fisherman: its roll was closer to pure lobster (which we liked), and the fries were better. But Sesuit Harbor Cafe wins overall for the view and ambience. We also popped into the gift shop across the parking lot from the Harbor Cafe -- it was a little more interesting than the typical gift shop, and we even bought a couple of trinkets.
3. Ended up seeing quite a bit of the cape, from P-town to Falmouth (Barnstable County Fair). There ought to be a thread on the Best Chow at a County Fair, but unfortunately, I would have nothing to add -- my food was purely pedestrian: a snow cone and mediocre ribs. I did enjoy the sea lion show -- don't think I've ever seen an aquatic spectacle at a county fair before.
4. Restrooms. My benchmark for "hard-to-find public restrooms" has always been Harvard Square, but I think the cape wins here. Most places claim not to have a restroom, and if there is a restroom, it is often a hike around back to the porta-potty. Actually, though, the porta-potties were clean and decent -- I did not encounter a single disgusting one.
5. Had pizza at three Wellfleet sites -- they were all pretty good. Town Pizza is great for a quick pizza and beer after a day at the beach. The Juice is more festive, particularly when a band is playing outside. But my favorite is probably the Flying Fish Cafe. The people there are all super nice, the pizza is tasty, and their breakfasts are pretty solid, too. Next time I'll have to try their Jamaican special at dinner.
6. Hangar B was terrific -- a sunny, cheerful room where you can watch the planes take off and land. We went later in the day, and we only had to wait five minutes or so. Red Flannel Hash and Lemon Ricotta Pancakes were yummy; also loved the doughnut with jam accompaniment. The chef is right there in the room, chatting with customers as he whips up the dishes. An all-around great place, as many people have already pointed out.
7. After Hangar B, we strolled along Main Street in Chatham. Got a hankering for ice cream, so I asked around, and we ended up at Brick Block. Kind of a hybrid place: one side is an ice cream and crepe counter, but the next room has seafood, some tables, and a few couches. Loved all the exposed brick and the vibe of the room. I was curious about the seafood, but we were only there for ice cream, so it will have to wait for next time. Has anyone tried the seafood side?
8. Went to PB Boulangerie twice: once in the morning for croissants, and once in the late afternoon (after 4, I think) for baguettes. Both times they were well-stocked, and I thought the croissants and baguettes were very good, certainly comparable to Iggy's.
A big "thank you" to the posters who kindly pointed me to many of these places; thanks also to the posters who left tips that I discovered by searching the site. Didn't get to hit all the places I had hoped to. Nevertheless, because of your advice, I left the cape happy with memories of good meals, but also hungry for more exploration!
Sesuit Harbor Cafe
357 Setucket Rd, Dennis, MA 02638
Flying Fish Cafe
29 Briar Ln, Wellfleet, MA 02667
Main Street Cafe
345 Main St, Great Barrington, MA 01230